FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[The FLU farm]

And since you're a nice guy, here's a second one. Just don't look at them all at once.

 

[The FLU farm]

Hey, Peakbagger, when you get around to doing your air dryer install, would you mind selling me the old alky reservoir?

 

[peakbagger]

Good looking HMMH!

 

[Another Ahab]

]And since you're a nice guy, here's a second one. Just don't look at them all at once.

That's great stuff; thanks!

And it's no problem because I'm only using one eye to check them all out:

 

[The FLU farm]

Thanks. Yes, except for the banged up left door and cracked dash, that one's clean. ​
Finally got a chance to install the pig tail hoses on the impact wrench today, by the way, so this week I should be able to break some fasteners - or sockets.

 

[tennmogger]

Toymogger,

Congrats on the new SEE. Great trucks! About your clutch trouble, these clutch discs can stick to the flywheel or pressure plate, but in that case the clutch does not DISconnect when you push the petal. You would have power through to the front part of the transmission all the time. Also, you are sensing a change in load when you disengage the clutch, right? Your clutch may be fine.

Is it possible that the transmission or cascade/working gears has one or more levers in neutral? There is a neutral on the main shifter, neutral on the reverse/forward, and neutrals between the three stages of the cascade. A neutral anywhere would act as it does. Believe me, it is easy to not have a lever in just the right place.

The model transmission in the SEE (which I do not know much about specifically) also has air-shift between ranges so that basic gears are reused in so-called high and low ranges. If that air shifter failed to make a proper shift then the transmission could be between ranges there, too, and act like it is in neutral. How is your air system?

If it were me, I would not even consider pulling an engine until further diagnostics are done. That is a horrible job!

How do the shifters feel? One failure mode that could happen to a hardly-used transmission would be for someone to try to force any of the levers into a gear, breaking a yoke or other physical damage. Anything like that could be discovered by pulling the cover and top plate off the transmission.

There is a drain hole in the bottom of the bell housing that would provide a peeky-hole to the clutch with one of those fiber optic viewers. That drain may have a plug in it, and if so, please remove it. It is for fording and should not be in place for normal use. Any water or lubes that make their way into the bell housing will be trapped there and flood the clutch pack. Obviously that could have negative long term effects on your clutch and throw-out-bearing.

good luck,

Bob

We just got our family SEE. The kids are so excited. 87 from Govplanet. It only had 56m and 36hrs on it and is in mostly pretty good shape. Even came with the pavement breaker and I found the large impact drill hd45110m on ebay.
There are a few leaky cylinders and one of the outrigger levers was stuck at first. Motor sounds great and starts as soon as you put that screwdriver across the solenoid.

Here is the bigger problem. Clutch Inop. Initially, I was hopeful that it may just needed fluid/a good bleeding. Only having 56m on it, I have a hard time picturing how incompetent of an operator it could have had to burn up the clutch plate.
Now that it arrived, it did have fluid in the reservoir and the pedal had a fairly normal feel to it. With the engine running, when I engage the clutch it acts as if some weight is taken off the motor, as it wants to idle just a tad higher. But, there is never a connection between engine and wheels. I can put the tranny in every gear, motor running or not, clutch pushed in or not, but no connection is ever made. I'm getting ready to tilt the cab and pull the motor, thinking it has to be the clutch plate. Anything I'm missing here? I'm really hoping it is not the tranny.

Also had the critter in the dash problem. A lot of chewed BLACK wires in there. I see they all are numbered, but if you dont have the part of the wire with the number on it you are screwed. I have an operational heater and wipers, yeh. Unfortunately, no lights, blinkers, starter, tach, backhoe jct bx, etc. Anyone parting out and selling a wiring harness?

Still having a blast with it, even if it is just repositioning it with the backhoe to get it in a good place for repairs.

We just got our family SEE. The kids are so excited. 87 from Govplanet. It only had 56m and 36hrs on it and is in mostly pretty good shape. Even came with the pavement breaker and I found the large impact drill hd45110m on ebay.
There are a few leaky cylinders and one of the outrigger levers was stuck at first. Motor sounds great and starts as soon as you put that screwdriver across the solenoid.

Here is the bigger problem. Clutch Inop. Initially, I was hopeful that it may just needed fluid/a good bleeding. Only having 56m on it, I have a hard time picturing how incompetent of an operator it could have had to burn up the clutch plate.
Now that it arrived, it did have fluid in the reservoir and the pedal had a fairly normal feel to it. With the engine running, when I engage the clutch it acts as if some weight is taken off the motor, as it wants to idle just a tad higher. But, there is never a connection between engine and wheels. I can put the tranny in every gear, motor running or not, clutch pushed in or not, but no connection is ever made. I'm getting ready to tilt the cab and pull the motor, thinking it has to be the clutch plate. Anything I'm missing here? I'm really hoping it is not the tranny.

Also had the critter in the dash problem. A lot of chewed BLACK wires in there. I see they all are numbered, but if you dont have the part of the wire with the number on it you are screwed. I have an operational heater and wipers, yeh. Unfortunately, no lights, blinkers, starter, tach, backhoe jct bx, etc. Anyone parting out and selling a wiring harness?

Still having a blast with it, even if it is just repositioning it with the backhoe to get it in a good place for repairs.

 

[The FLU farm]

Alright, since you have the ability to pace yourself, here's another one - showing the normal cold-weather procedure.
Probably due to the battery disconnect switch issue, the M1008 gets to do jump starting duty.

 

[Another Ahab]

Sweet; now we're talking!

Thanks a million.

 

[The FLU farm]

This should make it a billion, then. I'll PM you my special bribe bank account info.

 

[Another Ahab]

This should make it a billion, then. I'll PM you my special bribe bank account info.

Good stuff.

And don't you worry, I already sent you the check in the mail; it's all good!

 

[The FLU farm]

Good. I'll bounce off to the bank as soon as it arrives.
Nothing against your check, but the shocks on the SEE aren't good.

 

[thingamadigger]

New member, just got a FLU 419 SEE out of NC, and have had a lot of fun so far getting things sorted! If the voltmeter is doing that you may have an intermittent short! intermittent electrical gremlins are the rule for old equipment that sits. I produced such a short when I put the alternator back on. Every male/female wire on the alternator is the right size for only that connection, and there was a loose unconnected eye bent over behind the alternator, so just to see what it did, I put it on the large battery wire post where it seemed to originally fit, and the voltmeter pegged. removing this mystery wire remedied the problem, and I don't yet know if it is a ground wire intended to equalize the ground in the chassis and should be bolted to a ground, or if it served some other purpose and is shorted out somewhere it goes...
All of my relays are intermittent at best, and once I replace them all, I will be able to start tracing any other problem connections..
I will post a picture soon...

 

[ToyMogger]

Wow, thank you all for the quick responses.

Dan, consider your harness sold. I will call you tomorrow to arrange payment and shipping.

The shifters all feel really smooth, brand new actually, except for the rear hydraulics, had to turn the rpm down and gently grind it into gear, again clutched or not seemed to make no difference. On that note, I'm seeing your perspective, tennmogger. My air system is most likely not operational. The air gauges were disconnected and there was just some dust falling from the relieve valves on the tanks. I dont hear any unusual hiss anywhere and dont know if I should be able to hear that compressor running next to the running motor. But, I'm actually really stoked about this. Correct me if I'm wrong, but since my rear hydraulics work, doesnt that mean my clutch is fine. I did not even give the air system any thought, but after looking at your post I looked over the manuals again and realize now how extensive it really is.

As for the air system
Does it at all have any electric input? Remember, my harness lacks many good connections.
Do all the parts isolate themselfs somehow or if one fails all goes down?
For down the line, what can you actually hook up to the front connections by the pass headlight?

 

[thingamadigger]

You should be able to first have an observer watch to see if the clutch piston is moving its full travel and returning when you fully depress the clutch. The front brakes/clutch share a reservoir, and mine needed bleeding badly. Mine worked until cold enough to freeze the water in the lines, 25 year old brake fluid needs to be completely flushed as it absorbs water over time.. When diagnosing clutch problems, start at the reservoir, then the clutch master cylinder, then the lines, then the slave cylinder, then the cable, all of which are visible under the hood/cab. As for the air system there are numerous electrical solenoids, and mechanical regulators in the entire system. The fix for my low air pressure was to turn the regulators all the way in with the metric allen head on the top of them, then readjust until the dash read 120..One regulator was not original, and seemed to work in reverse to the other for up/down pressure FYI..
As for the front connector, good question, i was wondering the same.

 

[The FLU farm]

For down the line, what can you actually hook up to the front connections by the pass headlight?

Guess you could use the front glad hands for towing an air brake equipped trailer while in Reverse, but most likely they're there to facilitate the SEE being towed, making its brakes work just as if it were a trailer.

Now you got my already overworked mind wanting to try towing the SEE behind my Pete, with a trailer hooked to the SEE.
If everything works correctly, applying the trailer brake on the Pete should activate the SEE's and the trailer's brakes.

 

[tennmogger]

Toymogger,

The grinding of the PTO when it goes into gear is typical but does give you a way to 'test' clutch function. The PTO gearing and shifting is not synchronized, but other gears are. If you press in the clutch, go into 1st (or any other) gear, then try the PTO. If the PTO shifts with no grinding you know that the clutch is working. So why? Unimog PTOs typically run off the input shaft. A very slightly dragging clutch (also typical) can get the main shaft turning because it has hardly any load on it if no transmission gears are selected. By engaging 1st gear you have loaded the input shaft and it will stop, allowing the PTO to engage without grinding.

How did that go?

With no air, my bet is the air-shifted gear position is your trouble. You can manually shift that lever from up under the cab. Move it to one limit or the other and try it. The gears might have to be wiggled a little for it to drop into gear. Might have to jack up a wheel and shake it to accomplish that. I have no idea what electricals are associated with the air system (I don't know SEE's, only 406's).

Bob

Wow, thank you all for the quick responses.

...

The shifters all feel really smooth, brand new actually, except for the rear hydraulics, had to turn the rpm down and gently grind it into gear, again clutched or not seemed to make no difference. On that note, I'm seeing your perspective, tennmogger. My air system is most likely not operational. The air gauges were disconnected and there was just some dust falling from the relieve valves on the tanks. I dont hear any unusual hiss anywhere and dont know if I should be able to hear that compressor running next to the running motor. But, I'm actually really stoked about this. Correct me if I'm wrong, but since my rear hydraulics work, doesnt that mean my clutch is fine. I did not even give the air system any thought, but after looking at your post I looked over the manuals again and realize now how extensive it really is.

As for the air system
Does it at all have any electric input? Remember, my harness lacks many good connections.
Do all the parts isolate themselfs somehow or if one fails all goes down?
For down the line, what can you actually hook up to the front connections by the pass headlight?

 

[Another Ahab]

New member, just got a FLU 419 SEE out of NC, and have had a lot of fun so far getting things sorted! .

For the record, Welcome from the Good Old U.S.A., here in Virginia.

 

[The FLU farm]

Oops, I did it again.
Figuring that I'd have a somewhat constant future need for parts, I bought a parts-SEE.
This (stupid) move also allows me to experiment with various modifications to the loader, backhoe bucket, etc. - and when they fail, I still have a functional SEE.
Please tell me that this made sense. A little bit, anyway.
Ah, what the heck, we only live once.

 

[Another Ahab]

Sure it makes sense, everybody needs a back-up.

See? and you GOT one!

 

[Mike929]

Curious, how much room is there in the FLU419 vs an M35a2 deuce?

I know that although I can sit up in a deuce, I have to lean over a bit to see under the wiper motor. Plus the steering wheel to seat ratio is tight. I usually have to lean my knee toward the door so I can lift it past the steering wheel to press the brake/clutch pedals.

Curious how I would fit in a 419?