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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

The FLU farm

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found in TM5-2420-224-20-2 pg.4-147 there are 2 switches, I believe 1 might be for the front system , and 2nd for the back system...
I dont think I got the fluid hot enough to kick the switch...130*-150*... but will still check with meter...View attachment 677593
Interesting. But since the front and rear systems are completely separate, as far as I know, it makes me think that there are two switches for the rear system. If there indeed are two switches, I have no idea where the other one is.
 

Migginsbros

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Speaking of tugs, I'm trying to learn more about those as I was recently told that the 406 tugs have the same hydrostatic drive setup as the HME. Would you happen to know if that is indeed the case? And if so, how does it work?
Don´t know that the HME/HMMH has that feature. I know that torque converter on our tug is envolved for smooth/yerkfree towing.
You change the gears by pushing the clutch pedal but due to the torque converter it´s like automatic.
Our forklift Steinbock has the same feature.
 

The FLU farm

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That must be a different setup than on the HME, then. Those have a button on the dash for "Hydro Drive".
Unless all that does is to let the torque converter do its thing, and the torque converter is normally locked up, making the gear box and clutch work as usual.
 

peakbagger

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Interesting. But since the front and rear systems are completely separate, as far as I know, it makes me think that there are two switches for the rear system. If there indeed are two switches, I have no idea where the other one is.
Working from memory (a dangerous thing), I believe that when the hydraulic tools system is turned on, it cranks up the throttle. I think that's the other "switch"
 

The FLU farm

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So Flu Farm, did you ever chase down that fuel line air leak issue one of your trucks was having? Mine may be coming down with the same bug. I'm waiting for new fuel filters to be delivered before I start troubleshooting.
You might as well start your trouble shooting. In my case I ended up having to change the filter housing anyway - likely because I wasn't the first one to use the bleeder screws excessively.
Anyway, you inspired me to try again. It was a mixed bag.
Fuel gets to the pump, and to the bleeders, but not in massive quantities. It ran great for maybe 20 minutes, played with the loader and backhoe a bit to put some load on the engine, then it started crapping out again.
Tried leaving the electric pump running, not knowing if it lends itself to being in line, but not powered. No difference. If anything, it got worse.
On the positive side, the high idle switch has decided to start working (I don't think it used to). Another odd thing is that it seems like the tool hoses are under pressure whenever the engine is running. One of the QDs leak a bit. The switch is frozen, so while it doesn't give high idle, it might feed the reel.

Looks like I'll have to go through the system, tank to filters, to figure this one out. Put a healthy dose of "miracle additive" in the tank, which has very little fuel in it since I was about to drop it. Hopefully that elixir will break up whatever gunk might be in the system.
Of course, it could be as simple as a kinked hose between the strainer and pump. It has been replaced, but is bundled in with various conduits and not visible for the most part. The low pressure pump I'm using puts out so little that it's hard to find a restriction with it.
 
Yeah, that strainer may not be as effective as it could be. But if it's clean inside, I don't think it could make the engine run crappy, either way.
I know well that the direction won't make that much of a difference, it just bothers me that someone wasn't paying attention. Since my fuel quality is now in question, I'm tempted to get a clear bowl for the strainer.
 

The FLU farm

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I know well that the direction won't make that much of a difference, it just bothers me that someone wasn't paying attention. Since my fuel quality is now in question, I'm tempted to get a clear bowl for the strainer.
Meh. They're easy enough to loosen and clean. But can be a bitch to get to seal again. Maybe clear would be a good thing, come to think of it.
 
By the way, the throttle linkage is quite complex and needs lubrication at multiple points especially where the rod goes across the back of the block. If you haven't lubed all the links and pivots its a good time to do so
crap... I just lowered the cab last night and secured it...
I lubed most of mine last weekend while replacing the starter. 80% of them are easily accessible with the doghouse removed, and the ones in front of the starter can be gotten to from below with a bit of a reach.
 

The FLU farm

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I do a lot of work from memory. Or, more specifically, lack thereof.
It's rare that I remember to bring all the tools I need to the vehicle I'm about to work on. That makes me walk more, which is work.
 

The FLU farm

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It doesn't work that way for me, Ahab. Especially number seven and eight.
I decrease my energy by wasting it on walking, rather than wrenching. And my bones and joints have a limited number of miles left in them, much like my vehicles.
Number 11 really isn't a problem for me. I cut myself far too often to be able to build up high blood pressure.
 

General Hood

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It doesn't work that way for me, Ahab. Especially number seven and eight.
I decrease my energy by wasting it on walking, rather than wrenching. And my bones and joints have a limited number of miles left in them, much like my vehicles.
Number 11 really isn't a problem for me. I cut myself far too often to be able to build up high blood pressure.


I found you a solution sir
article-2662112-1EE1D84E00000578-500_634x925.jpg
 

anthkey

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I lubed most of mine last weekend while replacing the starter. 80% of them are easily accessible with the doghouse removed, and the ones in front of the starter can be gotten to from below with a bit of a reach.
I did that last night , was able to shoot WD40.. made a big differance.. tks..
 
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