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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

The FLU farm

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Interresting. In Europe they put later MGF 16Valve aluminium engines (Rover K series 1600/1800) in it. Much more lighter an more powerful.
Those aren't readily available here. But it's awfully tempting to put the built spare Buick 215 into it.
Still, since nothing else on the car weighs anything, it's quite quick as it is.
 

General Hood

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Fort Towson, OK
Fuel system update: cleaned the screen filter cup out 3 times today and it was full of sludge each time. Hmmmm, I cleaned the fuel tank out last summer and put new fuel in it.
Anyhow, the machine is running fine now.......knock on wood
 

rtrask

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San Luis Valley, Colorado
I just bought my 1987 FLU419 101 SEE yesterday. It looks like it needs a lot of work, but it runs at least.
Ronald Trask
Centennial Colorado USA

I am not sure what the frame No. is yet.
 
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The FLU farm

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...cleaned the screen filter cup out 3 times today and it was full of sludge each time.
If you call that minute amount of crap "full", then the strainer on the parts SEE has been filled to 25 times its capacity almost every time I've checked it.
Actually, what you show in the photos is about what's left in mine after I clean it out.

Sheesh, flawless paint (possible even waxed) and now you're craving a surgically clean interior of the strainer, too? I'm starting to suspect that you remove your flip flops when entering the cab.
 

General Hood

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If you call that minute amount of crap "full", then the strainer on the parts SEE has been filled to 25 times its capacity almost every time I've checked it.
Actually, what you show in the photos is about what's left in mine after I clean it out.


Sheesh, flawless paint (possible even waxed) and now you're craving a surgically clean interior of the strainer, too? I'm starting to suspect that you remove your flip flops when entering the cab.
Actually, I poured out the loose sludge so I could photograph the heavy stuff on the bottom. You of all people should know how little it takes for a SEE not to run :whistle:
 

911joeblow

Active member
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Utah
Oh, that's not a new idea, Ahab. He stole that one from me.
But I have about a six month lead over General Hood on figuring out what the cause is. And if I spent more than two minutes per day (on average) on that issue, the problem would be solved much quicker.
Which reminds me...need to order a few more things from Bel-Metric to aid in my troubleshooting/replacement procedure.
Forgive me if this has been looked at but have you pulled the vent out to make sure it is clear? A quick check would be to leave the cap off and run it. If it fixes it then your vent is clogged.
 

The FLU farm

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Actually, I poured out the loose sludge so I could photograph the heavy stuff on the bottom.
Uh, huh. Suuure you did. And for your next act...?


Joeblow, yes, the vent on mine is functional. I've used it to pressurize the tank.
The only thing odd with it is that once, when pressurizing the tank by mouth, did it act like there was a check valve. Air could enter the tank, but it felt like it was plugged when sucking on the hose.
So even if there is a check valve, functioning at least sporadically, air does get in.
 

rtrask

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San Luis Valley, Colorado
aHi Ahab

Thanks for the welcome. This seems to be a pretty active community. I have been reading through the back posts. There is a lot to try and digest. I bought it through the GovPlanet Auction, and have not actually seen it yet. Maybe I am crazy to take the risk, but I believe that with time and sweat I can get it sorted out. One of the early posts compared it to a Swiss Army knife for its versatility and that is what attracted me to it in the first place.

I have downloaded the manuals, and have read parts of some of them as my attention span allows. It looks like the parts availability is fairly good based on web searches on part numbers. The batteries are dead of course, do you or anyone else have recommendations for replacement.

The solenoid seems to be toast, and I will need to replace belts, hoses, fluids etc. The control panel is not functional, and the master cylinder is said to be soft. So those are some obvious places to get busy with. Given that I am starting from a blank slate, what advice would y'all give me for what to look for and what to hit first?

Ron
 

The FLU farm

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The actual midwest, NM.
I bought it through the GovPlanet Auction, and have not actually seen it yet.
Welcome, Ron. If you don't mind sharing, which number was it at GP? Looking at the photos might help us spot potential trouble.
Since all the common SEE issues has been covered, as you surely noticed when reading the older posts, you came to the right place.
 

Another Ahab

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The solenoid seems to be toast, and I will need to replace belts, hoses, fluids etc. The control panel is not functional, and the master cylinder is said to be soft. So those are some obvious places to get busy with. Given that I am starting from a blank slate, what advice would y'all give me for what to look for and what to hit first?

Ron
You ask a fair question, and I'm not the answer man for what sequence of diagnostics you should best follow.

But I believe the battery issue was addressed here, in this very thread, just a few pages back.

In a nutshell, you will help yourself if you do your share of "homework" in this particular forum in SS, and scan all the various threads listed in the forum.

That would be a first step.

Then if you don't find the answers to the questions you have, then you won't go wrong posting your own thread about your particular questions.

There is expertise here among the SS membership that you'd be hard pressed to find all "under the same roof" anywhere else.
 

General Hood

Member
712
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18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
aHi Ahab

Thanks for the welcome. This seems to be a pretty active community. I have been reading through the back posts. There is a lot to try and digest. I bought it through the GovPlanet Auction, and have not actually seen it yet. Maybe I am crazy to take the risk, but I believe that with time and sweat I can get it sorted out. One of the early posts compared it to a Swiss Army knife for its versatility and that is what attracted me to it in the first place.

I have downloaded the manuals, and have read parts of some of them as my attention span allows. It looks like the parts availability is fairly good based on web searches on part numbers. The batteries are dead of course, do you or anyone else have recommendations for replacement.

The solenoid seems to be toast, and I will need to replace belts, hoses, fluids etc. The control panel is not functional, and the master cylinder is said to be soft. So those are some obvious places to get busy with. Given that I am starting from a blank slate, what advice would y'all give me for what to look for and what to hit first?

Ron
Welcome Ron
I have a new starter w/ solenoid if yours is shot. Shoot me a message if your troubleshooting efforts reveal a replacement is necessary. Good luck with your first SEE, and may it give you many years of service
 

Bikers33

New member
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Location
British Columbia
The drive train is MGB, for better or worse. Better, because I have lots of MGB parts, and they're cheap. Worse, because it's heavy stuff for what it is.
Although, since I tend to accumulate lots of parts for whatever vehicles I have, it's handy to have a common base for this car, the MG TD (also MGB drive train) and the MGBs themselves.[/QUOTE]

005.JPG FLU FARM, I'm looking for an MGB steering rack for my '56 Healey 100/4 conversion. If they're cheap.:driver:
 
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rtrask

Well-known member
342
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63
Location
San Luis Valley, Colorado
General Hood,

That sounds good to me. I should take delivery by the first of June, I will give you a shout after I find out what is going on with it. The GP inspection said that it started after they jumped the solenoid. Since the control panel seems to have issues it could just be from the connection from the starter button to the solenoid, but I doubt I am that lucky. I will take you up on your offer if I can use it.
 
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