• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

Migginsbros

Well-known member
2,186
6,612
113
Location
Berlin-Germany
Mmm, FLU p*rn.
By the way, are you putting bigger pistons in the SEE? The one in the background looks a bit larger than stock.
Yes, is´t a 15" Big Bore Piston. But we thing it was a bad buy. In this moment we try to fit the piston to the SEE,
but.......... it´a heavy rain.
We try again later.:D
SEEcampaign 053.jpgSEEcampaign 052.jpg
 

General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
It'll be a different 3-color pattern soon. I've started on that very poorly made and ill fitting fiberglass hood I bought a while back. First I need to decide on what to use for "mini scoops", to make room for the two things that won't fit under the hood. Yes, I had to cut two holes in the hood to make it lay down in place.
What color it ends up being depends on what spray can I grab. I hate working with fiberglass, so it may end up pink.
A FLU419 with a hood scoop, this I must see
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
A FLU419 with a hood scoop, this I must see
If it doesn't rain (so I can paint) tomorrow, I'll post a pic...if you promise not to laugh too hard.
By the way, now that both the steel and 'glass hood has been on and off a few times, I'm not convinced that the steel hood clears the clutch slave reservoir, either. Not without all four little rubber bumpers in the corners anyway.
Then again, many things don't fit right on this particular SEE.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,991
4,536
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
If it doesn't rain (so I can paint) tomorrow, I'll post a pic...if you promise not to laugh too hard.
I might laugh loud, but seeing as you're in the Actual Midwest (and I'm Mid-Atlantic), I don't think it'll carry.
You could call me, right before looking at the post.

I could, you're right...

But I better not. You know. Just in case.

Because if I start laughing by accident I sure don't want to upset you, Brother!



abc.gif
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Okay, paint is not on the list for today. The second application of silicone must dry first.

Why did this fiberglass hood need "scoops"? Because it hit the reservoir and some hard parts of the brake system. DSCN0542[1].jpg It didn't need much extra clearance, a piece of flat sheet metal and a PVC pipe end cap machined down to 3/8" tall did the trick.

Was getting ready to install the hood latches when the realization set in that this hood was rapidly becoming a 2-piece version. Like much fiberglass, the end result is larger than it's supposed to be, and (I'm guessing) the former GP forklift driver's new career in fiberglass finishing made him grind off what little held the two halves together at the front.DSCN0563[1].jpg

After spreading the halves apart a bit more, a liberal dose of silicone was squeezed into the gap, hopefully acting as an adhesive. If it won't hold up, a series of machine screws will be used to keep this hood together. DSCN0565[1].jpg

And, for the benefit of General Hood and Ahab (or anyone else who cares), here are the "scoops" in all their glory. Hopefully they'll stay in place even after being subjected to contact with the loader and its hoses when removing and reinstalling the hood. They better...I can't weld fiberglass.DSCN0568[1].jpg

On the positive side, the color choice is made for me: Semi gloss black, to match all the silicone, and to give the SEE that sporty look often seen on rally and muscle cars. Also good is that this 'glass hood weighs a LOT less than the steel version, so it's much easier to handle.

I'd be more inclined to laugh (more) at this myself had it not been for the fact that this piece of crap cost $450. But had it been purchased for a Unimog that I wanted to look nice, I would've been really frosted. In this case, it's only there to keep the sun (primarily) and water from damaging things in the engine compartment.
I sincerely hope that this hood was an exception, the only one, and that this is not what others get when paying dearly for a replacement hood. Especially since many SEEs have left the lot without one recently.
 

911joeblow

Active member
508
68
28
Location
Utah
Do I understand you have the auger head and hydraulics, but was unclear if the auger bit is included. What are you asking for the assembly?
Mark
Divebuddy@familyscuba.com
The auger and bit I rent when I need them, they are $3500 to buy! But to fit them you need a FLU only bracket and custom hoses. That is what I have available. Not trying to get what I have in them back but something fair.
 
Last edited:

alpine44

Member
397
17
18
Location
Asheville, NC - Elkton, MD
After spending about 30 hours over the last week on my "new" FLU419, the following things have been accomplished.

-Built jack for front loader and removed loader to gain easier access to engine compartment.
-Replaced fuel filters with new assembly from EI and got engine running without much trouble. Fuel systems holds prime for at least two days (Did not yet let it sit idle for longer).
-Removed fuse panel, re-attached loose connectors, cleaned all wiring (fortunately no rat damage), and cleaned area in front of the dash.
-Opened brake booster and cleaned out crud that had gotten in there from the rotten master cylinder. It is feasible and possibly even easier to take the booster apart while being mounted in the vehicle. The heater pipes in front of it are strong enough to be used as a leverage point for compressing the booster spring. Also, "rolling out" the locking wire of the lid took a bit of force that could become an issue if the booster is just sitting on a bench. In this case, I would drill holes in a wood plate to match the mounting studs on the brake pedal side and also build a wooden portal over the lid of the booster to compress the spring. The guts of the booster a relatively simple and what one would expect from a pneumatic servo valve.
-Reattached all the plumbing for booster and installed new brake master cylinder.
-Installed new clutch cylinder, new fluid reservoirs, and hoses.
-Installed missing harmonic damper and tightened the bolt holding it to the crank to 400ft/lbs(!). Not having the correct socket handy, I used a big crescent wrench, a long cheater pipe, and a spring scale. Apparently, the entire assembly (damper, pulleys and fan) had come loose and eaten the radiator before the unit was auctioned through GL.
-Freed up alternator rotor that was stuck to stator after sitting for decades.
-Installed new belts (sizes listed here are good to go). The power steering belt is a serious bear to install and tighten due to the almost inaccessible adjustment screw and jam nut.
-Installed radiator which requires a second person to turn the fan by hand while you feed the lower pipe of the radiator over and down between the blades. (Another task that is harder than it should be)
-Filled and bled cooling system. It took quite a bit of running before the fluid level settled down.
-Replaced drain valves on pressure tanks. Fortunately, that was all it took to build pressure.
-Greased all points on the backhoe and loader.
-Got the backhoe deployed and played around with it for a while to distribute the grease.
-Reattached the loader (in less than 10 minutes)
-Busted all wheel lug nuts loose using copious amounts of PB blaster.
-Used loader and hoe to get wheels off the ground.
-Checked gear oil in all portal boxes and transmission.
-Bled the clutch and brake system using two inexpensive reservoir caps from Eurotruck, a couple fittings, and a cheap garden-sprayer to pressurize the fluid reservoirs. Got a substantial amount of water out of the lower points of the system. One of the front calipers may be due for replacement in the near future because of the water intrusion.
-Drove the "Mud-Merc" into the sun for a photo and took it on a short spin around the property.

20170724_160107_1.jpg


There is still a bunch of things to fix and to adjust, but so far I enjoyed working on the FLU419, am satisfied with the result vs effort ratio, and feel sorry for the folks here who had - and still have - a more agonizing experience. Maybe a lot of Mercedes' design features are less foreign to a German engineer, but I think the FLU419 is a pretty well designed machine. It is not as simple as an 8N but certainly maintainable "under the average shade-tree".
 
Last edited:

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Good job, alpine!
It's great to see that you missed out on rat repairs, and that it all seems to work.
And isn't that power steering belt adjustment fun? Now you know why I changed all three, even though only the alternator belt was questionable. The other day, before putting the skid plate back on, I checked the tension one last time on all three. The power steering belt could've been tighter, but "screw it" was my final assessment.
If your work description is chronological, at least you had the advantage of not having the radiator in the way. Not that I know if it really helps any.
 

alpine44

Member
397
17
18
Location
Asheville, NC - Elkton, MD
Good job, alpine!
It's great to see that you missed out on rat repairs, and that it all seems to work.
And isn't that power steering belt adjustment fun? Now you know why I changed all three, even though only the alternator belt was questionable. The other day, before putting the skid plate back on, I checked the tension one last time on all three. The power steering belt could've been tighter, but "screw it" was my final assessment.
If your work description is chronological, at least you had the advantage of not having the radiator in the way. Not that I know if it really helps any.
Even with the radiator out there is no way to get to the PS pump adjustment screw from the front. Only access is from below - blindly as far as the screw head is concerned.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Even with the radiator out there is no way to get to the PS pump adjustment screw from the front. Only access is from below - blindly as far as the screw head is concerned.
I was afraid that might be the case.
By the way, did you also get to enjoy having the bolt turn when trying to move only the locking nut? That was the highlight, I think.
Ended up putting long-nose Vice Grips on the bolt's threads, on the left side, to enable turning the locking nut. That was cruel to the threads, but beats trying to get two wrenches (and two hands) in there.
 

alpine44

Member
397
17
18
Location
Asheville, NC - Elkton, MD
I was afraid that might be the case.
By the way, did you also get to enjoy having the bolt turn when trying to move only the locking nut? That was the highlight, I think.
Ended up putting long-nose Vice Grips on the bolt's threads, on the left side, to enable turning the locking nut. That was cruel to the threads, but beats trying to get two wrenches (and two hands) in there.
Twisted minds think alike! I did exactly the same with a vice grip.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks