• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

S

SeeNebraska

Member
86
24
8
Location
Nebraska
Fixed 2 things last night. the parking brake handle pulled completely out last winter and the door release button popped out of the door handle around the same time.

both turned out to be simple fixes.

for the parking brake, disconnecting the cable at the lever by the rear axle lets the cable be pushed up until it shows inside the cab. rethreaded the handle on the cable and tightened up the jam nut. slide the handle back in (you have to manually deflect the catch pin that is on the handle tube and the slide the handle back in. reattach the cable at the rear lever.

the door handle was a similar failure, the retention screw on the back of the button had vibrated loose and was down inside the door. simple matter of disassembling things far enough to be able to put that retention screw back in and then reassembly.

can't believe i waited >6 months to fix those two huge inconveniences!
 
Speedwoble

Speedwoble

Well-known member
606
301
63
Location
New Holland, PA
Couchoffroad said:
Sorry for the duplicate post.
As a helpful warning to anyone using their SEE for front loader digging, be carful not to use the low side intermediate gears when really driving hard into the ground.
The heilical gears look like they can put a bit of thrust loading and grenade the new style synchronizing ring for this gear group.
We had a customers SEE come in with this issue after some heavy digging with the front loader and had to rebuild /replace the transmission. The transmission takes around 60 man hours to pull and reinstall, let alone time for the rebuild along the some rather pricey parts.
Can't say for 100% sure this causes this, but the design looks like it's at fault and it's just not worth the risk when 1st gear direct is manageable for heavy digging.

hopefully this will save someone $14-$20k in this rebuild/repair
Click to expand...
Just wanting to verify what you mean here.
The Group Shift lever to the left controls High, Low, or Reverse.
The Pneumatic Intermmediate shift selector on the Main Shifter controls the intermediate gears.
So did you mean just to not run the Intermediate Low and Group "I" at the same time? Or never run the intermediate in Low if we are towing something heavy.
I ended up bumping my engine to running backwards by trying to pull out a tree in 1,H,II.

shifter.jpgshifter 2.jpg
So if I want to minimize risk of damage, what is the lowest gear set I can use?
 
Last edited:
J

Jamesm417

New member
20
4
1
Location
Alaska
I think I need to replace the original, screw top, primer.
Searching the Internet, I come up with two Bosch part numbers, bosch 2 447 222 125, and bosch 2 447 222 126.
Can anyone please tell me which one I need?

Thanks,

Jim
 
P

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
63
Location
northern nh
If you a messing with the fuel system, make sure you order a gasket for the fuel strainer. Its a common issue that introduces air leaks on the suction side of the fuel system.
 
rtrask

rtrask

Well-known member
342
251
63
Location
San Luis Valley, Colorado
Hi Everyone
What is your collective opinion on the KBI ether system on the 419? With all the cold weather we have been having and my intent to move it up to it's new home at about 8000 feet, cold starting has gotten onto my priority list. There was no cylinder on the metering solenoid when I got it, and the solenoid will not move. A replacement from KBI with the same part # is < 90$, and a cylinder of either is around 40$. plus hazardous material shipping of about 35$
Before I put money and effort into getting it functional again, I would like some feed back:
  1. How well does it work
  2. Has anyone tried an alternative,
  3. Has anyone tried to source the cylinder locally
  4. How long does one of those cylinders last i.e. about how many starts do you get out of one

Thanks in advance.
Ron
 
The FLU farm

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
The one in my Winter SEE works fine. Almost too good, as it seems to squirt some ether into the system automatically, at each start. But that's okay since I like the smell.
I get the cans at the local Napa, but don't remember the cost. They're fairly cheap, though.
Changed the can in the Winter See once, which turned out to be about a third full still.
On the other FLUs I generally forget that the system exists, since the one "pulls the knob" by itself.
 
P

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
63
Location
northern nh
I have not used it but I swear its set up to automatically inject ether no matter where the switch is set if the temp is below a certain setpoint. I think the switch just adds an extra dose. I did check with the Napa warehouse a year ago and they stocked it so any dealer they ship to could get in in day or two.
 
The FLU farm

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Hmm. I thought I posted a pic of their new "house" (okay, carport) a while back?

Anyway, the HMMH has a corner spot, then the Winter SEE, and next to it is the Summer SEE. Guess I'll take a new photo tomorrow, proving that I got the tire chains and snow blower installed on the Winter SEE a couple of days ago.

And would you believe that getting that one ready made it not snow nearly as much as predicted?
 
P

Pinsandpitons

Active member
162
54
28
Location
Central Washington
My ether system was leaking when I got my see so I just removed it. It starts great down to about 10 F (coldest I've tried). Point being that I'm not sure how necessary it is and secondly, if one really wanted to give her a little shot, the intake is an easy reach from the drivers seat with a spray can of ether conveniently kept in the cab during the cold months.
 
The FLU farm

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Another Ahab said:
Hey, FLU Farm, do you keep them all lined-up and separated by season?!

- The Summer SEE'S here

- The Winter SEE'S over there...


:driver::doghead::driver:
Click to expand...
Here you go, from left to right; Summer, Winter, and all season.

Of course, I use them as needed and the "Winter" moniker is because that's the one that's set up to accept the snow blower. Conversely, the Summer SEE has the better wheels and tires (and bucket) for doing normal ditch work.

But since they're all like a big Lego, most anything could be switched around to serve a different purpose.DSCN2991[1].jpg
 
The FLU farm

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
The headers are solid lumber, but not solid enough for my liking. A glue lam would've probably been better.
I'll weld up some steel supports at some point. At least the posts are real steel, not firewood like the headers.
 
Another Ahab

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,991
4,536
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
The FLU farm said:
The headers are solid lumber, but not solid enough for my liking. A glue lam would've probably been better.
I'll weld up some steel supports at some point. At least the posts are real steel, not firewood like the headers.
Click to expand...
Wondered about that. Ease your mind:

- Throw on what we used to call a "flitch plate" on either side of it (around 24"-36" of plate steel, 1/8"-3/16" should be plenty). On either side, screwed or bolted, centered on the center-line of each header. That's where it wants to go soft (IF it ever does, likely fine even as is).

Somebody else here might know better, but that should do you fine.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
110,697members
165,189threads
2,324,302posts
1,429online users
Top