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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

BELinNC

Member
72
91
18
Location
White Oak, NC
Wow, HRBERGERON. You should get the extra effort award for swapping out every hydraulic hose! I have replace the four worst ones on mine and felt like I really did something! Now if I could just get mine back together after tilting the cab to replace slave cylinder. If I was smart I would do my v belts too with the better access I have right now.
 

hrbergeron

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
305
394
63
Location
Geographical Center of Virginia
Well I figured it out. They are Parker numbers. Looks like cheapest source is eBay with some surplus ones available.

Male is VHN8-8EM
Female is VHC-8-8EM

Wow, HRBERGERON. You should get the extra effort award for swapping out every hydraulic hose!
The hoses alone were just under $2000. The belts were something I've wanted replaced for the past 5 years. I had every cylinder rebuilt 4 years ago. Tired of chasing leaks.
 

hrbergeron

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
305
394
63
Location
Geographical Center of Virginia
Also, I removed the tilt cylinder for the backhoe assembly from my other 419 to rebuild. Friend borrowed it and it blew out. No good deed goes unpunished. I should have that FLU419 for sale within a month or two. I wouldn't mind keeping it as a spare, but I don't really need two. Wouldn't mind a HMMH though.
 

NJRICK

Member
36
1
8
Location
woodbine NJ
If you own a SEE, HMMH or HME Tractor please let us know.
419.101 SEE 2086 ea., 419.102 HME 13 ea., 419.103 HMMH 164 ea., 419.104 HME 153 ea.
Post name, Town, State, country, email, phone,first 9 digit of frame no. or what you think/like to build a network of
FLU419 owners.
Anyone parting out FLU 419 SEE ? I'm in NC
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,989
4,532
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
My front axle spewing air in diff lock mode has been fixed! Actually it healed itself like someone said it might, I just let it sit a few months and came back and no air coming out. I guess whatever solenoid got stuck is now unstuck.
That's miracle mechanics.

We had a buddy in our neighborhood way back in the Stone Age (early 70's), who owned an old VW Beetle.

Whenever it wasn't running right, he'd back it into the garage of his house (well, actually his parent's house), close the overhead door, and let it sit.

Nine times out of ten, he'd pull it out after a week and it'd run like a charm. Crazy
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,911
2,582
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
Well, the mice finally got to my FLU419. I hadn't seen any mouse damage to my wiring previously. However, I went to use the SEE after about 2 weeks sitting and found that the alternator wasn't charging, but everything else worked so I went ahead and used it for one day, planning on trouble-shooting the alternator later. The next day the starter wouldn't turn over. I started the trouble-shooting process in the -20 manual. Once I pulled the defroster vent I saw a significant amount of some strange-looking nuts. The whole area was packed with the nuts. My SEE had been in Kuwait, Iraq and Afghanistan in addition to Wisconsin, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Georgia and Texas so those strange-looking nuts must have come from one of those places, and that is only a list of places I know about. Once I sucked out over one-gallon of the nuts, I could see the damage to the wires. I then pulled the ignition switch. Then I pulled the two large rubber ducts from the front. I have a total of 12 wires chewed through and some of the wires have sections missing where the mice took the wires away. Of course all of the wires are black and most of the same diameter and there are almost no wire numbers visible. None of the damage or stockpile of nuts was visible from the front because the two large pieces of ducting blocked the damage and viewing of the nuts. I am going to have a terrible time tracing what wires go to what area. I think I'm going to have to experiment with making some temporary connections to see what lights up and/or runs with the connections and probably suffer some short circuits to ground.

IMG_0744 (1).jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg
 
Last edited:

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
63
Location
northern nh
Look back in this thread there are a whole lot of posts talking about how to figure it out and suggesting some words that may help describe the project in front of you.🤪

Hey at least you have access to a wiring diagram those guys were just using the tm. Good luck and let us know what words you come up with to describe the project.
Yup, I think I was the one long ago that flagged this issue. Texas and the Red River arrmy depot seems to be a common location for this damage.

I think I had more chewed wires than you. I did my repairs without the benefit of the wiring diagram which thankfully one of the Steel Soldiers members rescued from a government surplus auction and sold extra copes to other members. One of them also scanned it in high resolution. Get a copy from the Misc Tech Manuals section and go to Staples and have the print a couple of copies out and hang one on the wall. Buy yourself a goog magnifying glass as the wiring numbers on the diagram and the wiring is tiny. Note the student handbook has a lower resolution version cut in half, I would suggest skipping that and getting the high-resolution version that has been linked multiple times in this thread. Us lucky folks got the official US army laminated versions but far cheaper to just get some spare paper versions printed out.

I would not randomly take a chance on reconnecting wires. One of the members long ago decided to rip out the wiring and start from scratch, we never heard from him again and expect it was a big failure. I would suggest removing the loader as otherwise its a major PITA to get at the wires and the back of the dash (I did not and regretted it as there is no good way to stand ) I figured out the wire number on all the terminals on each dash component and also every one of the connectors where the harness plugs into the main distribution block. Using the electrical troubleshooting section I could usually come up with the wire routing adn numbering. You can now skip this now that the electrical diagram is available. I would suggest removing the speedo and the tach in order to get better access from inside the cab. I also used wire numbering tape to mark any wire I identified (Electricians use it). Once I know one end of the wire at the distribution block or the dash I hook my multimeter to one end and use the continuity test beeper to find the chewed end . I then mark it and then chase the other end. Once I got both chewed ends, I slip on heat shrink tubing, then twist and solder the joint, then slide the heat shrink over and heat it up until it seals the connection.

As far as I know, I got all the connections right and my SEE is still being used several years after the fix. A BTW is getting the ductwork back in place is a PITA and in my case I crushed the cheap cardboard/foil tubing used to convey heat to the windshield defrosters and managed to disconnect the Ether connection to the main air duct. I only use mine in above freezing conditions, so I did not replace the tubing or the Ether connection. Aircraft Spruce is good source for the heater tubing (its used in light airplanes). The ether connection is just a matter of getting to the location where it connects. It has been awhile but I think its in spot that is very hard to get to without the cab up. I was anxious to get it over with and probably just said the heck with it.

It took me months to do my fix but the research required without a diagram took the vast majority of the time, with a wiring diagram, Simple Green and rags to clean off the wires at each end to find the numbers and the loader removed I expect it would have been a long weekend.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,989
4,532
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
Yup, I think I was the one long ago that flagged this issue. Texas and the Red River arrmy depot seems to be a common location for this damage.

It took me months to do my fix but the research required without a diagram took the vast majority of the time, with a wiring diagram, Simple Green and rags to clean off the wires at each end to find the numbers and the loader removed I expect it would have been a long weekend.
"...a long weekend"?!

It sounds like it would be something like 3-4 years working 12-hour days!!

Wiring problems make me lose Religion

They just aren't ANY fun. I salute your alls Courage!

:driver::beer::driver:
 

govsurplus

New member
16
16
3
Location
Fallon NV
If you have not lifted the cab yet consider it the underfloor wires and tubes are just as tasty as the easy ones to get to nothing worse than thinking yea finally got it and starting the engine and WTF, that's not working
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,911
2,582
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
I found more damage to the main wiring harness and I'm trying to find a replacement. I also found a very active mouse nest and cleaned it out. I see that EI has a custom-made main wiring harness for $695.00. It doesn't have the sheaths covering the different branches of the harness, but does have colored wires. Has anyone had success with this wiring harness from EI? Unfortunately, $695.00 isn't cheap, but without a working wiring harness my FLU419 is useless. I'm not looking forward to replacing the harness!
 

BELinNC

Member
72
91
18
Location
White Oak, NC
Man, that is scary what those little jerks can do even in a short amount of time! Its a big enough challenge to keep these vehicles going as intended without wire eating going on. Good luck on the repairs. Would be interesting to hear from someone who has tried the new harnesses EI has available.
There were mice in my shop/storage building when I bought my property two years ago. Hated to do it, but I bought the poison cubes and every so often have to remove a poor dead one. Hate to kill them, but the SEE and mowers etc, need protection .
 

NEIOWA

Well-known member
1,195
127
63
Location
NE IOWA
A good rodent is a dead rodent.

Not exactly OT but apparently the greenies have wiring harness in new vehicles being built utilizing wire with soy (plant) based insulation (vs petro based), Apparently, mice LOVE them some soy buffet. THIS will end well.

Worth asking if a new wiring harness ia construted of real wire vs soy wire.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Not exactly OT but apparently the greenies have wiring harness in new vehicles being built utilizing wire with soy (plant) based insulation (vs petro based), Apparently, mice LOVE them some soy buffet. THIS will end well.
Depends on what you consider "new". They've been using the soy lube for about 20 years by now.
 
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