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I was told - way back in the day - that the Acetone and ATF is a 50/50 Blend.
Also called Weasel Pi$$ for one reason or another
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- Thread starter Migginsbros
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I was told - way back in the day - that the Acetone and ATF is a 50/50 Blend.
Also called Weasel Pi$$ for one reason or another
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The normal recommended 50/50 mix works great.
Just don't put it in a handy old style oil can like I did. It has a crimp on the bottom, which works well with the regular oil it was intended for, but the acetone/ATF mix crept through that crimp. Yes, it's that good of a penetrant.
Another Ahab
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majkowskid
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Replacement wiring harness update!!!
Replacement wiring harness update
She runs!
Had some weird issues with a popping heater fuse at first when I was turning the master light switch to full running lights but I think I have that worked out.
I believe we had some of the 4 pin connectors behind the ignition switch misconnexted They are labeled e1-e5 and c3 on the new harness.
I think we have those connected correct as about 85% of everything is working.
Things that aren’t working:
-Turn signal switch. Does nothing. This didn’t work prior to mouse damage.
- horn. Also wasn’t working before so may have been prexisting. Going to try to try the horn with battery tomorrow.
- volt meter. Used to work. Not now. ??
- all warning lights above speedo. Nothing illuminates. No brake, no pro light. Nada. Those used to work.
Then I have a really weird issue. When I turn the master light switch to full run (all the way to right) all lights work… high low beam etc. but the hazard relay under the dash just clicks continuously. The button actually turns the lights on and off, but the relay just keeps clicking. Very strange.
If you have any suggestions let me know!!
Replacement wiring harness update
She runs!
Had some weird issues with a popping heater fuse at first when I was turning the master light switch to full running lights but I think I have that worked out.
I believe we had some of the 4 pin connectors behind the ignition switch misconnexted They are labeled e1-e5 and c3 on the new harness.
I think we have those connected correct as about 85% of everything is working.
Things that aren’t working:
-Turn signal switch. Does nothing. This didn’t work prior to mouse damage.
- horn. Also wasn’t working before so may have been prexisting. Going to try to try the horn with battery tomorrow.
- volt meter. Used to work. Not now. ??
- all warning lights above speedo. Nothing illuminates. No brake, no pro light. Nada. Those used to work.
Then I have a really weird issue. When I turn the master light switch to full run (all the way to right) all lights work… high low beam etc. but the hazard relay under the dash just clicks continuously. The button actually turns the lights on and off, but the relay just keeps clicking. Very strange.
If you have any suggestions let me know!!
majkowskid
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Does anyone know part numbers for the indicator bulbs?
I need a couple for the 5 lights above the Speedo (parking brake indicator, pro engage etc).
And also the bulb that goes in the volt meter. It’s a different one. Can’t find any part numbers.
I need a couple for the 5 lights above the Speedo (parking brake indicator, pro engage etc).
And also the bulb that goes in the volt meter. It’s a different one. Can’t find any part numbers.
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Bring one each of the old ones to NAPA?
majkowskid
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Wish we had a local Napa. Closed down two years ago. All we have is auto zone and they looked at me like I was stupid. I said “they’re 24 volt” and they were like “sir, all cars are 12 volt”. 
majkowskid
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So I found a pinhole seeping leak on my radiator. Right on the top flat portion.
Has anyone found an aftermarket radiator that fits the FLu? Don’t wanna spend 1000$ on an old stock one lol
Has anyone found an aftermarket radiator that fits the FLu? Don’t wanna spend 1000$ on an old stock one lol
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Solder up the hole and hope there won't be too many other leaks?
majkowskid
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Was actually just researching this. Are the radiators aluminum? If so I think I can aluminum welding with low temp aluminum rods and propane burner
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I doubt that they are, but I can go scrape some paint off of one tomorrow and find out.
majkowskid
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If you don’t mind that would be great! I would think aluminum to be honest. Copper maybe??
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My guess is brass, like most older radiators.
majkowskid
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That would make sense. Brass is even easier. I think i can just solder it with 40/60
majkowskid
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Ok. More rat damage! Can someone please help me identify these 4 wires? Right by the gear shifters. Two go to the split shift indicator button on top of the split shift mechanism. I was able to identify the one that goes to the dash light. So there’s 3 left. I know one of them goes to the other wire on the button switch but I don’t know how to identify which of the remaining it may be? And the other two I have no idea what they do! Can’t find any numbers on them!
majkowskid
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MogPoggers
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Just checking in because it's been a while. I've been living at the new property, getting things done and haven't had a lot of time for the internet. But I figured it's time to let you guys know I'm not dead.
However, the front hydraulic pump belt on my SEE is dead - or close enough. I've been using it a lot, and now the belt is squeeling and the loader is weak. I may just need to retension it, but I've ordered a couple replacement belts for it just in case. If I do end up needing to replace it, I'll upload a video to YouTube documenting the process (I'm sure I'll **** it up and you guys will all laugh at me).
Also, I've decided I need to replace these Pirelli tires. They're fine for road use, but I don't use this thing on the road and I've gotten it stuck and had to pull it out with my dozer a couple times (still learning where the muddy/sketchy parts are on this property). Anyway, does anyone have recommendations for the absolute biggest, nastiest, most aggressive mudders that would work? I know most of the things 'truck guys' might recommend, but if you'd recommend something different, let me know.
I was looking at the Alliance 398 MPT, but was disappointed to find that they don't seem to come in a 20" rim size. Too bad, they seem like they'd be perfect for on and off road use.
However, the front hydraulic pump belt on my SEE is dead - or close enough. I've been using it a lot, and now the belt is squeeling and the loader is weak. I may just need to retension it, but I've ordered a couple replacement belts for it just in case. If I do end up needing to replace it, I'll upload a video to YouTube documenting the process (I'm sure I'll **** it up and you guys will all laugh at me).
Also, I've decided I need to replace these Pirelli tires. They're fine for road use, but I don't use this thing on the road and I've gotten it stuck and had to pull it out with my dozer a couple times (still learning where the muddy/sketchy parts are on this property). Anyway, does anyone have recommendations for the absolute biggest, nastiest, most aggressive mudders that would work? I know most of the things 'truck guys' might recommend, but if you'd recommend something different, let me know.
I was looking at the Alliance 398 MPT, but was disappointed to find that they don't seem to come in a 20" rim size. Too bad, they seem like they'd be perfect for on and off road use.
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majkowskid
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Alright guys… need some help…
as some of you know I recently replaced my entire wiring harness behind the dash due to rodent damage.
had an issue with flasher relay going super fast. Like 10 times per second. (below the dash) and I ordered a new one. Just installed it and my issue is 50% better so the relay was definitely bad.
Now, as soon as I turn on primary power you hear the relay clicking, but at NORMAL speed. Before it was going super fast.
the hazards work as intended with the hazard button. On and off. But even when they’re off, the relay is clicking at normal hazard speed.
with hazards off, I use the turn signal switch and they halfway work. If I turn to left, the rear RIGHT blinker works. When I turn to right, the left works. Obviously I have the switch wired wrong. BUT… the front ones dont blink at all.
with the hazards on, all four flash, so it’s not bulbs.
any ideas??
as some of you know I recently replaced my entire wiring harness behind the dash due to rodent damage.
had an issue with flasher relay going super fast. Like 10 times per second. (below the dash) and I ordered a new one. Just installed it and my issue is 50% better so the relay was definitely bad.
Now, as soon as I turn on primary power you hear the relay clicking, but at NORMAL speed. Before it was going super fast.
the hazards work as intended with the hazard button. On and off. But even when they’re off, the relay is clicking at normal hazard speed.
with hazards off, I use the turn signal switch and they halfway work. If I turn to left, the rear RIGHT blinker works. When I turn to right, the left works. Obviously I have the switch wired wrong. BUT… the front ones dont blink at all.
with the hazards on, all four flash, so it’s not bulbs.
any ideas??
glcaines
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I would double-check the A-coded wires behind the fuse blocks. I had similar issues. Do your fuse blocks have the paper labels that identify the circuits? Mine has them, but I saw another FLU419 where they were missing. If yours are missing, let me know and I'll send you copies.
majkowskid
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I have the little labels behind the fuses if that’s what you’re asking.
Wondering if I may have one of the single wires I asked you about behind the blocks incorrect…. First thing I’m going to try is double checking the wires to the turn signal switch. If you have time, if you could shoot me a pic of the back of your switch that would help since we have the same harness! I could match up wire colors then
Wondering if I may have one of the single wires I asked you about behind the blocks incorrect…. First thing I’m going to try is double checking the wires to the turn signal switch. If you have time, if you could shoot me a pic of the back of your switch that would help since we have the same harness! I could match up wire colors then