General Hood
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- Fort Towson, OK
yep, what Flu Farm said
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group
- Thread starter Migginsbros
- Start date
911joeblow
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OK guys, so I am a FLU419 newbe. I have read all 86 pages and as I did I was working through issues here is the write up but I have some new issues I need help with too.
My FLU has 115 miles on it. All the tires still have knobs on them. It sat in Texas for a LONG time. I bought it as a non runner.
When it arrived it was obvious the batteries were dead so I got OEM replacements ($500!). I then did some basic checks and filled her with fresh diesel and some seafoam to break things up and clean her out. I was getting no dash or starter power so I went right to the fuses first. The fuse boxes were corroded and missing most of the fuses. I cleaned the contacts and replaced the fuses. More items came to life but still no start. So I then went to the relays. I started removing them and tapping on the ground to break them free and started rotating them until I started getting power hear and there. I has two bad relays, Ignition (K1) and Start (K2). Not having 24V relays around I used 12V 30 AMP units to get her going. After priming and such she fired right up. I also had no turn signal switch so after ordering one had the pleasure of figuring out the wiring for it without a schematic. Lots of fun but now everything works as far as lights go save a burned out upper headlight (I just ordered LED replacements). Then the heater blower smoked on me. Turned out it was the capacitor inside the heater box. Since I am not running a radio and dont have any other electronics I just removed it and am back in business.
I then moved on to the implements and after fixing the excavator park lock, greasing all the fittings and such (3 days worth), the implements are all up and working. A couple of exceptions were the hi/low RPM switch (no air) and a sticky main hydraulic for stowing.
I then moved onto the air brakes. I was getting 10 PSI and that was only after a long (unsafe) drive! So never having worked on air brakes I dove in head first. I removed and cleaned and reassembled the Pump, Regulator and Alcohol injection system. There was a fair amount of corrosion and debris in the system and after a full day I had it back together. I am not convinced the pump is really putting out what it needs or should. I can hold my finger over the pump outlet and block it easily. I would love to know if this is correct of if it is weak? The reed valves looked fine and are very clean now and I used a gasket sealer for the head gasket and verified it is not leaking. I am now able to get 90+ PSI but only if run at 2K RPM and it takes a while. I have played with the regulators but even with the main regulator cranked down that is all I get. Can I get some enlightenment on the other two regulators and where they should be set? I am doing all this without an air gauge since I have yet to find an adapter for the test points, so the dash gauge is all I have. The main regulator is blowing air out the bottom so it is regulating but perhaps it is also leaking out the bottom? But is does seem to work with the adjustment screw so I am a little confused. There are no leaks in any on the lines I have found. I am getting enough air to turn off the warning light and buzzer. I also no have a working hi/low switch but it is lazy going back to low? It might need to get pulled out and cleaned too. The hi/low shifter is now working too on the tranmission.
The throttle linkage was a complete mess, I pulled out the hand throttle linkage and straightened it and readjusted everything so it works properly now.
The only other issues are a RT windshield heat that pops the fuse weather on or off? Obviously a short or relay logic? Not sure yet?
The other nasty one is the starter. It stuck on once or twice but then all of a sudden it stuck on and would not turn off! The solenoid was back so it was just spinning itself but that was still bad I had to pull the battery cable! Anybody seen this? I could simply be a bad starter but I am also thinking wiring? Any thoughts?
Thanks guys!
My FLU has 115 miles on it. All the tires still have knobs on them. It sat in Texas for a LONG time. I bought it as a non runner.
When it arrived it was obvious the batteries were dead so I got OEM replacements ($500!). I then did some basic checks and filled her with fresh diesel and some seafoam to break things up and clean her out. I was getting no dash or starter power so I went right to the fuses first. The fuse boxes were corroded and missing most of the fuses. I cleaned the contacts and replaced the fuses. More items came to life but still no start. So I then went to the relays. I started removing them and tapping on the ground to break them free and started rotating them until I started getting power hear and there. I has two bad relays, Ignition (K1) and Start (K2). Not having 24V relays around I used 12V 30 AMP units to get her going. After priming and such she fired right up. I also had no turn signal switch so after ordering one had the pleasure of figuring out the wiring for it without a schematic. Lots of fun but now everything works as far as lights go save a burned out upper headlight (I just ordered LED replacements). Then the heater blower smoked on me. Turned out it was the capacitor inside the heater box. Since I am not running a radio and dont have any other electronics I just removed it and am back in business.
I then moved on to the implements and after fixing the excavator park lock, greasing all the fittings and such (3 days worth), the implements are all up and working. A couple of exceptions were the hi/low RPM switch (no air) and a sticky main hydraulic for stowing.
I then moved onto the air brakes. I was getting 10 PSI and that was only after a long (unsafe) drive! So never having worked on air brakes I dove in head first. I removed and cleaned and reassembled the Pump, Regulator and Alcohol injection system. There was a fair amount of corrosion and debris in the system and after a full day I had it back together. I am not convinced the pump is really putting out what it needs or should. I can hold my finger over the pump outlet and block it easily. I would love to know if this is correct of if it is weak? The reed valves looked fine and are very clean now and I used a gasket sealer for the head gasket and verified it is not leaking. I am now able to get 90+ PSI but only if run at 2K RPM and it takes a while. I have played with the regulators but even with the main regulator cranked down that is all I get. Can I get some enlightenment on the other two regulators and where they should be set? I am doing all this without an air gauge since I have yet to find an adapter for the test points, so the dash gauge is all I have. The main regulator is blowing air out the bottom so it is regulating but perhaps it is also leaking out the bottom? But is does seem to work with the adjustment screw so I am a little confused. There are no leaks in any on the lines I have found. I am getting enough air to turn off the warning light and buzzer. I also no have a working hi/low switch but it is lazy going back to low? It might need to get pulled out and cleaned too. The hi/low shifter is now working too on the tranmission.
The throttle linkage was a complete mess, I pulled out the hand throttle linkage and straightened it and readjusted everything so it works properly now.
The only other issues are a RT windshield heat that pops the fuse weather on or off? Obviously a short or relay logic? Not sure yet?
The other nasty one is the starter. It stuck on once or twice but then all of a sudden it stuck on and would not turn off! The solenoid was back so it was just spinning itself but that was still bad I had to pull the battery cable! Anybody seen this? I could simply be a bad starter but I am also thinking wiring? Any thoughts?
Thanks guys!
General Hood
Member
- 712
- 2
- 18
- Location
- Fort Towson, OK
Good looking SEE you got there JoeB. And accolades for the progress made thusfar on reviving the beast. Welcome to the forum
Bikers33
New member
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- British Columbia
Welcome to our sickness.... The reservoir air pressure should be set to 105psi. The FLU has an air OVER hydraulic braking system and only uses air pressure as a booster....Think vacuum but reversed. The rest of the air system is reserved for fun things like shifting, lockers and air brake equipped trailers.
General Hood
Member
- 712
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- Fort Towson, OK
BTW, I know a guy on this forum with NOS starters and schematics, that may be of interest to you
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Welcome to the Slight Issues Anonymous group.
Sounds like you've had one busy early ownership time. And that you're getting close to done.
If indeed the starter is bad, be nice to general Hood and he might sell you one. Especially if you also buy an electrical wall chart from him.
Others here, more qualified, will likely help you out with those air issues. So far, all I've had to deal with in that department is leaky drain valves.
Oh, and with your enthusiasm still intact, please plan a trip to here to help out with a non-starter. Apparently it's a fuel issue - well, it really couldn't be much else with a diesel. You could even get a free ride from Utah to here, fixing the **** thing while it's still on the trailer. Would you, please?
Sounds like you've had one busy early ownership time. And that you're getting close to done.
If indeed the starter is bad, be nice to general Hood and he might sell you one. Especially if you also buy an electrical wall chart from him.
Others here, more qualified, will likely help you out with those air issues. So far, all I've had to deal with in that department is leaky drain valves.
Oh, and with your enthusiasm still intact, please plan a trip to here to help out with a non-starter. Apparently it's a fuel issue - well, it really couldn't be much else with a diesel. You could even get a free ride from Utah to here, fixing the **** thing while it's still on the trailer. Would you, please?
peakbagger
Well-known member
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My two cents on the fuel issue. After you have checked/replaced the primary fuel filters, hook up a gravity fuel tank onto the inlet of the fuel pump. I used an outboard motor boat tank with a primer bulb and hooked it to the outlet hose of the strainer located down on the frame. I set the tank up on the passenger seat so it was definitely above the injection pump. Swap out the primer pump on the injector pump to the new style (the ones that dont need to be unscrewed to work). Open up the bleed screw on the primary fuel filter and pump the primer pump on the injector until there are no air bubbles coming out the screw then swap over to the secondary bleed screw until all the bubbles are gone. Crank the motor and see if it starts, it should start pretty quickly. If it does start but starts to stall or wont accelerate, you most likely have the infamous problem with leaky Mercedes Fuel lines that only leak under vacuum. To really prove it, pump the primer bulb on the boat tank and see if the engine starts running well when you pressurize the fuel lines. The fix is replace the fuel lines with fuel rated hose. The other fix is to put a piece of split hose around the connections on the suction side (including the PITA ones on top of the fuel tank which require dropping the fuel tank) and then put a screw type hose clamp over the hose and crank them down tight. If you don't put the piece of hose over the plastic lines, the clamp will cut into the fuel line.
One of these days I will put in three way valves and quick disconnects on the supply and return fuel lines so I can use the boat tank to run off road diesel when I am off road but keep the primary fuel system for when its get used on road.
Keep in mind while running on the temporary tank that the injector rail is returning fuel to the main tank so its level will go up.
One of these days I will put in three way valves and quick disconnects on the supply and return fuel lines so I can use the boat tank to run off road diesel when I am off road but keep the primary fuel system for when its get used on road.
Keep in mind while running on the temporary tank that the injector rail is returning fuel to the main tank so its level will go up.
Skidpad
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JoeB, welcome to the crazy. You've got a great looking SEE there! Kudos on all the rebuild work. Very interested to hear your progress as you move along. Cheers!
Skidpad
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Peakbagger, I found that PM page you were referring to about the brake lines. Here it is in case you didn't get around to adding it yet.
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Sad to see that even the military had to give up perfectly good Halon extinguishers for messy and corrosive powder.
911joeblow
Active member
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- Utah
I would like a schematic for sure. I am thinking that the solanoid might be the issue as the starter motor runs all too well
? I will PM you.
911joeblow
Active member
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- Utah
Since fuel discussions came up again....I noticed air bubbles on the return line side, I assume that is NOT normal? The engine runs great but I would assume it should not be making bubbles? Thoughts?
Go Go Gadget FLU 419
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Bubbles in fuel aren't supposed to happen I believe. I get them as well. I'll replace my fuel lines and see what happens. On your air leak, have you fiddled with the little regulator just forward the rear passenger side tire? I know sometimes it gets stuck on releasing air instead of letting it build up properly. Enjoy your new behemoth joeblow! You seem like you know what your doing, so I'm sure it will be no time at all until you're burning doughnuts off somewhere!
Hey Skid, if you're wanting to freeze something, I can guaran****tee that an upside down can of keyboard duster will do the job. Works on a lock you may have lost the key too as well. Freeze it solid, then ping it with a hammer. Gloves and glasses are mandatory for that task.
Hey Skid, if you're wanting to freeze something, I can guaran****tee that an upside down can of keyboard duster will do the job. Works on a lock you may have lost the key too as well. Freeze it solid, then ping it with a hammer. Gloves and glasses are mandatory for that task.
Bikers33
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NOT normal !! Is the fuel return line pulsating while the engine is running? What color is the smoke ( if any ) when you mash on the throttle?
911joeblow
Active member
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- Utah
The bubbles are a constant flow with the return flow of fuel, but the smaller line right off the back of the valve cover is black so I cant see if they are coming from there or the 'T' itself which might be bad. All the bubbles seem to go back to the pump and not to the tank. The exhaust color normal grey/black, no blue or white. Runs a bit on the rich side it seems but could be normal? I am going to change out the 'T' as that might be leaking. I am strongly considering switching to rubber lines, the hard lines are a PIA!
Still playing with the starter to see if I get lucky and dont have to replace it.
peakbagger
Well-known member
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That T on the return line gets smacked by the engine cover removal as its real close. I remember working on the piping on that area but cant remember what the heck I did.
Another potential fuel system issue is that the breather cap on the tank could be plugged with paint. Mine was. I ended up getting lucky and finding an exact replacement by searching the brand name on the web. I expect the fuel cap rarely is tight enough to seal but it if does and the vent is plugged the engine is not going to run right.
Another potential fuel system issue is that the breather cap on the tank could be plugged with paint. Mine was. I ended up getting lucky and finding an exact replacement by searching the brand name on the web. I expect the fuel cap rarely is tight enough to seal but it if does and the vent is plugged the engine is not going to run right.
Bikers33
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911joeblow
Active member
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Thanks guys for all the help...well UPDATE!!
I know my starter solenoid is shot as it stops with a good wack so armed with a hammer I set off driving her to get diesel and see how she runs. Well I now have a TON of air! I saw 130 PSI so I will now turn it back down! So on a long strait I got 50 MPH, but that is all she wrote. That was gear limited as I was not wanting to tach her out. Not really sure what the redline is? Had two cars stop to take pics getting fueled up
So I got home and threw my teenage daughter in the truck and we went and filled in some holes in the backyard and moved so debris to a dumpster in the park. The backhoe and loader worked flawlessly. The backhoe stow took the extended hard swing up to work but work it did. The RPM up switch worked but only to 1800 RPM so I will adjust it later. It still sticks going back to low but does eventually switch after 30-45 secs or so.
Steering was a little grabby so I will look into the power steering system tomorrow but for now she has already started to pay her keep.
I am debating whether to register her as a truck or a tractor...
SO WHO HAS A SOLENOID FOR SALE?
Neither myself, or the other two HMMH owners I've spoken with, got the impact wrench. But, the hydraulic tools on these FLUs are just Stanley Pro. I'm also going to get a hydraulic grease gun -- my thumb had to be surgically repaired, squeezing a grease gun *that* many times on a FLU is just painful for me. One early lesson I learned, is always hand-torque lug nuts when putting wheels back on. I collect vintage dial-indicator torque wrenches, amongst other old hand tools:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CDI-DIAL-TO...LITARY-SURPLUS-1-2-DR-USED-1561-/351642729869
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Apc...ue-Wrench-with-case-RDF-250-W-C-/122029002748
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Proto-Tool-...LBS-MKG-6133a-range-0-600-ft-Lb-/322279780859
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Dia...-Pounds-Model-D3250F-Metal-Case-/142123142788
My favorite's the Proto. I hate getting out-bid on old Proto tools! After using dial-indicator torque wrenches, I can't go back to the other types.