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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

M

MSMOG

Member
84
1
8
Location
Jackson, Mississippi
Bikers33 said:
Bridge Plates are mounted to the front of military vehicles.... Every bridge crossing "in theater" would have a weight restriction with a designated number. The bridge plate number on the front or the vehicle must be at that number or lower for that vehicle to safely cross. Sorry GH but had to answer that question for the young fella.
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Thank you. "Another Ahab" had posted this informative link about those bridge plates.

http://www.m715zone.com/vb/showthread.php?t=24272

As for the track bars getting bent, airdrop was just an alternate theory to the common forklift damage, which I also have. Really just an excuse for me to share the video.
 
General Hood

General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
Bikers33 said:
Track bars are busted when the FLUs are moved around with forklifts... also squashes the exhaust pipe like a pancake underneath..
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And that is exactly how the FLUs are removed from the woods in Texarkana, and on top of that, some of the non-starters are pulled by the loader cross bar with another vehicle for the photo shoot. I kinda wish they advertised them from the overgrown wooded lot, and left it up to the buyer to get the FLU out, but what's the fun in not having a fixer upper, right?
 
M

MSMOG

Member
84
1
8
Location
Jackson, Mississippi
General Hood said:
And that is exactly how the FLUs are removed from the woods in Texarkana, and on top of that, some of the non-starters are pulled by the loader cross bar with another vehicle for the photo shoot. I kinda wish they advertised them from the overgrown wooded lot, and left it up to the buyer to get the FLU out, but what's the fun in not having a fixer upper, right?
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General - Since you have been to the land of SEEs, how many are left down there? You bidding on any of the ones coming up?
 
General Hood

General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
MSMOG said:
General - Since you have been to the land of SEEs, how many are left down there? You bidding on any of the ones coming up?
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Not sure I'm allowed to make any comments on units currently up for auction, but I was told the next batch coming out of the woods have trees growing through them. Hopefully care will be given to the extraction process
 
M

MrSEE

Member
31
0
6
Location
Billings, MT
Heh we must be sick to want more of these... but seriously... I hope there are still some decent ones to come out of there.

Salute to General Hood: The FLU419 wiring diagram is awesome. Also great in the sense that these machines can still fit their wiring onto a poster that size. Id hate to see a wiring diagram for my Subaru BRZ.

Just bouncing back to my intermediate gears/split shift "issue" (not going into lower split):
It's easy to check for power at the fusebox and at the shift solenoid. It's in the military TM's. Once that is done you know it's not an electrical problem. Leaves air and/or mechanical. The solenoid operated valve and the control valve (on right side of trans behind rear cab mount) CAN be removed with the cab on. It stinks, but not nearly as much as pulling/tipping a cab. The mount bolts for these valves are 10mm and the air fitting bolts are 14mm. To save you the hate that I felt removing the valves, you can see if air is going into the split-shift piston housing (on the top of trans) by removing those lines and playing with the shift knob up/down lever. Just remember clutch has to be depressed to make the solenoid-operated valve let air through.

If it's mechanical, you either have a transmission problem or a stuck air piston. If your transmission shifts and operates fine, the former is pretty unlikely.
 
M

MrSEE

Member
31
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Location
Billings, MT
If anyone has wheels for sale in the NW USA, I'd love to buy. Have some decent tires to put on them for spares. Let me know. Not ready to pay $300+ apiece for fresh ones, mostly due to the likely high shipping costs
 
M

MSMOG

Member
84
1
8
Location
Jackson, Mississippi
Go Go Gadget FLU 419 said:
MSMOG, in your post (#1022), the object in question in picture #1 is a little retaining rod for the bracket that is just to the 4:00 of your finger. See the other little rod just like it, but with a pin in it? You'd pull that pin out, swivel the bracket upward to be over the peg you're pointing at, and then put the pin back in that peg. Then you can't accidentally slam your bucket into the ground while driving down the highway. There is one on each side of the bucket.

My boot/seal for the bucket controls is trashed too. Lemme know if ya find a replacement!

My exhaust was crushed exactly like yours.

My truck came with the single work light on the left side of the bucket arms.

Both my fenders needed some pall peen hammering, they turned out pretty darn good.
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I think I found that boot/seal for the bucket controls, but I don't think I want it this badly...
http://www.expedition-imports.com/4196407071
 
The FLU farm

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,342
1,328
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
MSMOG said:
I think I found that boot/seal for the bucket controls, but I don't think I want it this badly...
http://www.expedition-imports.com/4196407071
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Yikes! At that price, it makes me want to look into using a common transfer case lever boot for a Spicer 18 instead.
Also, it's possible that PETA could have an issue with sealing up what seems to be the doggy door for rodents on a SEE.
 
P

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
63
Location
northern nh
I don't think its possible to rat proof a SEE. Most of the harness damage occurs behind the dash which is easily accessed from the engine compartment. Mine had a hole chewed in the steering wheel boot when I got it, along with a brand new boot in a box. I think the prior owner of mine was trying to restore the truck to military condition which is fine but those nice boxes with Mercedes part numbers that arrive in the mail inevitably cost an arm and a leg. A chunk of thick resilient rubber gasket with a couple holes in it looks like a nice way to seal that boot.

On slightly related note I am curious if rapid prototyping would be good way to replicate rubber parts for the SEE. I think the RP would make the mold versus the final piece but its something to consider.
 
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