Maybe next time. Why are all the good gals taken? Well, most of 'em... stay tuned maybe! My dog running alongside a drifting FLU is what's worth watching, if I ever date a gal who can put it on video.Please tell me there is a YouTube video
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Maybe next time. Why are all the good gals taken? Well, most of 'em... stay tuned maybe! My dog running alongside a drifting FLU is what's worth watching, if I ever date a gal who can put it on video.Please tell me there is a YouTube video
Yes, the fuel-tank vent can be slathered with OD or Desert Tan or Camo paint, same goes for all kinds of other stuff on these trucks. My go-to tool so far with my FLUs, is a pocketknife for scraping paint.The only thing left is the sender inside the tank - can it clog? or it might be something else?
Maybe. I thought my e-brakes were adjusted wrong for needing to be pulled out several inches, but that's "by the book." I'll prolly tighten mine down, because a few inches would keep me from whacking the handle getting in & out wearing insulated pants, a long parka, and pack boots in winter. I never had this problem wearing flip-flops in nice weather, so YMMV.An alternative to adding more clamping pressure to the pads by going with HydroBoost would be to make what's already there work as intended. For example, I'm sure that the e-brake is supposed to work better than it does, and that the brakes in general aren't as effective as they could be on my FLUs.
You can't be going any slower than I'm going to dump an over-full loader bucket of snow... to get it over the top of the pile, I kinda hafta drive up the pile a ways, now. Although we had twice as much snow by this point last winter. Anyway, to dump that snow, I have to be able to brake, or the SEE backs down the pile and I don't have enough vertical clearance to dump snow on the top, why I'm driving up it to dump on the backside. Most of the braking I do in the SEE, is related to snow removal, because driving down the road, yeah you don't really need brakes, for the most part, unless you're driving waaay too fast for your equipment!Brakes aren't high on my priority list, however, as I don't drive fast enough to really need them.
I live in 14* grade, icy-switchback country. I don't care how slow you're driving anything, best to know how to recover a slide, so I make no apologies for taking any opportunity to practice drifting a FLU! Even if that means going all madman on a flat surface, IMO. Plus, learn to use that hand splitter. Sometimes, around here this time of year, knowing how to grab 1/2 a gear is better than stalling on a climb -- not a lot of surplus power to work with. Oh, sure, you can put the pedal to the metal, but now you're drifting around a curve you'd rather ride a rail around WITH traction.And while I'm a huge fan of going sideways in most any vehicle (even got to enjoy it on a twisty dirt road with the Pete and trailer on one occasion) a FLU is one vehicle I would not want to try drifting with. Now, this may be partially based on the fact that I have yet to figure out how to upright a SEE that's laying on its side.
Careful. The HMMH has a 2-ton forklift and a 3-ton crane, but only in close. The FLUs weigh 8 tons, so you can easily overload the HMMH trying to set your SEE to rights. Kinda what I ran into with trying to get the SEE out of the ditch, or the spare tire changed -- most backhoe-type vehicles weigh considerably less and are much smaller, for the size bucket/hoe on the SEE. So I wasn't really surprised I had to go back home to fetch the big floor jack to finish the tire change. In the paddock, in Summer, either FLU can lift itself enough to change a tire, but dozens of degrees subzero? Not gonna work the same. Speaking from woeful experience!Or, I could try using the HMMH for lifting while winching with another vehicle which might work, depending on the situation. As usual, the limiting factor wouldn't be that there isn't enough machinery for the task, but that there's only one operator.
I'm glad I went on my little excursions, showed me the limits of the SEE. The issue with moving double-full buckets of heavy snow around in the SEE, is yeah, you're basically driving a big marshmallow with a shovel on it. Having operated my ditched SEE at the limits of the inclinometer, moving snow about the property in soft conditions without chains does sometimes tilt me about halfway, but I'm totally confident to just drive through that, now. My buddy got somewhat freaked out, I was like naaaah, we're only halfway on the inclinometer. Once you accept how marshmallowy the SEE is, you can get some real work done by just going with it, but only by operating at 30* can you feel confident that 20* isn't gonna tip you over, not that I'm bragging about having my SEE in a ditch...Either way, the above is more than enough incentive to me to try my best to keep the FLUs upright.
If I lived in the desert, that'd be higher temps than I'd want. For where I live, that sounds like exactly the thermostats I'm after for my FLUs, because mostly they won't run that hot and I'd prefer to have cab heat on any except those few days... trade?I'm not sure if I have a different thermostat or not. I do know that I watch it a lot as I am getting to know her in the Nevada desert. Just as it hits 220 you can noticeably tell it opens and the system cools down below the 180 mark.
I think we'd all like a spare "decent" hood, because half of us don't have one, and the rest could do better? My dog would rather my FLUs didn't have passenger seats, but my friends probably would mind. I like the storage space under the passenger seat, for warning triangles & flares & such, so all other concerns aside, yeah, not selling my passenger seats!Does anyone have a SEE passenger seat they are looking to sell in and around Dallas Texas? Also a hood in decent shape would be useful.
Hmmm. I'd rather get more power from my SEE's motor. Or, rather, just make its existing power range more tractor than truck/bus, i.e. lower down the RPM range. You're obviously ahead of me on this, but it doesn't surprise me you want lower gearing whereas I want more power.It's the gearing (or lack thereof) that is the real issue. Yesterday the SEE simply ran out of power. Keeping the revs up to power the snowblower obviously speeds the SEE up, too.
In an ideal world, hydrostatic drive would be the solution, but cost and possibly also much generated heat rules that one out.
I'd gladly give up the seldom used high range for a lower low range, if there is such an option. How about it, you gear heads (no pun intended) out there, is there a relatively simple and affordable way to get lower gearing in a SEE? If so, having it both on the SEE and the HMMH would be most helpful.
Oh, them doing strange stuff is perfectly normal. And I'm sure that if you could be a wee bit more specific, someone would be able to try to help.
Seems like peakbagger, choprboy and a few others know more about SEEs than should be legally allowed.
Take a piece of PVC pipe and slit the length of it on a table saw. Then, spread the gap apart and slide it over the blade on the tractor. Now, the blade won't dig into the rock but, it will still clean off the snow.....No wonder the SEE is relaxing in comparison. Of course, it would help immensely if I would only run either the front or the rear blade, but nooo, I almost always run both at once. And lose gravel on the driveway accordingly.....
Welcome. It looks like your first post.Hello.
Can install a front and rear pto on my Flu419.
thank you
Bruno Angers
Hey, when even I can manage the schematic, it can't be all that hard. Since the honorable General Hood thankfully offered us those wall charts (which I had to refer to today again) it is fairly simple to figure the electrical out. Without, it would've been tricky indeed. Those wall charts are worth they're weight in gold, I think, even if they had come plated in glass instead of plastic.it is the way Europeans do things the bv 206 aka susv is the same way you have to be Einstein to follow the schematic.