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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

BigBison

Member
317
1
18
Location
Yampa, CO
The only thing left is the sender inside the tank - can it clog? or it might be something else?
Yes, the fuel-tank vent can be slathered with OD or Desert Tan or Camo paint, same goes for all kinds of other stuff on these trucks. My go-to tool so far with my FLUs, is a pocketknife for scraping paint.
 

BigBison

Member
317
1
18
Location
Yampa, CO
An alternative to adding more clamping pressure to the pads by going with HydroBoost would be to make what's already there work as intended. For example, I'm sure that the e-brake is supposed to work better than it does, and that the brakes in general aren't as effective as they could be on my FLUs.
Maybe. I thought my e-brakes were adjusted wrong for needing to be pulled out several inches, but that's "by the book." I'll prolly tighten mine down, because a few inches would keep me from whacking the handle getting in & out wearing insulated pants, a long parka, and pack boots in winter. I never had this problem wearing flip-flops in nice weather, so YMMV. :)
Brakes aren't high on my priority list, however, as I don't drive fast enough to really need them.
You can't be going any slower than I'm going to dump an over-full loader bucket of snow... to get it over the top of the pile, I kinda hafta drive up the pile a ways, now. Although we had twice as much snow by this point last winter. Anyway, to dump that snow, I have to be able to brake, or the SEE backs down the pile and I don't have enough vertical clearance to dump snow on the top, why I'm driving up it to dump on the backside. Most of the braking I do in the SEE, is related to snow removal, because driving down the road, yeah you don't really need brakes, for the most part, unless you're driving waaay too fast for your equipment! :)
And while I'm a huge fan of going sideways in most any vehicle (even got to enjoy it on a twisty dirt road with the Pete and trailer on one occasion) a FLU is one vehicle I would not want to try drifting with. Now, this may be partially based on the fact that I have yet to figure out how to upright a SEE that's laying on its side.
I live in 14* grade, icy-switchback country. I don't care how slow you're driving anything, best to know how to recover a slide, so I make no apologies for taking any opportunity to practice drifting a FLU! Even if that means going all madman on a flat surface, IMO. Plus, learn to use that hand splitter. Sometimes, around here this time of year, knowing how to grab 1/2 a gear is better than stalling on a climb -- not a lot of surplus power to work with. Oh, sure, you can put the pedal to the metal, but now you're drifting around a curve you'd rather ride a rail around WITH traction.

I keep my Mog drifting to large, flat spaces with snowbanks, not steep switchbacky county roads, I assure you! But, as with any vehicle I've ever owned, I need to know how it handles, because sometimes the yaks (tourists) are really unpredictable so it's best to learn how to drive your truck before you need to know how to drive your truck when the unexpected happens. I got within an inch from some dumbass sending my Dodge back to the body shop today, on my way driving it back home -- if I'm driving a Honda or VW around here this time of year, I tie a blaze-orange ribbon to the antenna (or used to, bitd when cars had antennae) so other traffic can even see me through the snowbanks, but this guy was merging onto a highway with eyes closed and fingers crossed, hoping his little roller skate wouldn't get squished by, well, someone's 1-ton pickup. Close call!!!
Or, I could try using the HMMH for lifting while winching with another vehicle which might work, depending on the situation. As usual, the limiting factor wouldn't be that there isn't enough machinery for the task, but that there's only one operator.
Careful. The HMMH has a 2-ton forklift and a 3-ton crane, but only in close. The FLUs weigh 8 tons, so you can easily overload the HMMH trying to set your SEE to rights. Kinda what I ran into with trying to get the SEE out of the ditch, or the spare tire changed -- most backhoe-type vehicles weigh considerably less and are much smaller, for the size bucket/hoe on the SEE. So I wasn't really surprised I had to go back home to fetch the big floor jack to finish the tire change. In the paddock, in Summer, either FLU can lift itself enough to change a tire, but dozens of degrees subzero? Not gonna work the same. Speaking from woeful experience!
Either way, the above is more than enough incentive to me to try my best to keep the FLUs upright.
I'm glad I went on my little excursions, showed me the limits of the SEE. The issue with moving double-full buckets of heavy snow around in the SEE, is yeah, you're basically driving a big marshmallow with a shovel on it. Having operated my ditched SEE at the limits of the inclinometer, moving snow about the property in soft conditions without chains does sometimes tilt me about halfway, but I'm totally confident to just drive through that, now. My buddy got somewhat freaked out, I was like naaaah, we're only halfway on the inclinometer. Once you accept how marshmallowy the SEE is, you can get some real work done by just going with it, but only by operating at 30* can you feel confident that 20* isn't gonna tip you over, not that I'm bragging about having my SEE in a ditch...

My productivity moving snow with the SEE loader is constantly increasing, but yeah, it's a sloth compared to any other backhoe or tractor front-loader bucket. I've had several friends/cohorts ride shotgun moving snow now, they're all "the fluid needs to warm up" at first, but after it does the loader's still a sloth. Operationally, I'd be more productive if I had a 3rd hand, but I'm finding that someone riding shotgun can take over forward/reverse "by my command" as I handle all the other controls... and yet, still, that's as slow a front-loader as they come.

OTOH, as much as my neighbor's actual backhoe/loader is faster clearing a level property, my SEE's got the edge up on my property, clearing the driveway and construction site. Because nobody else around here has a backhoe can even get in there, even with chains, like I can with the SEE even without chains, I just wish it was a snowblower.
 

BigBison

Member
317
1
18
Location
Yampa, CO
I'm not sure if I have a different thermostat or not. I do know that I watch it a lot as I am getting to know her in the Nevada desert. Just as it hits 220 you can noticeably tell it opens and the system cools down below the 180 mark.
If I lived in the desert, that'd be higher temps than I'd want. For where I live, that sounds like exactly the thermostats I'm after for my FLUs, because mostly they won't run that hot and I'd prefer to have cab heat on any except those few days... trade?
 

BigBison

Member
317
1
18
Location
Yampa, CO
Does anyone have a SEE passenger seat they are looking to sell in and around Dallas Texas? Also a hood in decent shape would be useful.
I think we'd all like a spare "decent" hood, because half of us don't have one, and the rest could do better? My dog would rather my FLUs didn't have passenger seats, but my friends probably would mind. I like the storage space under the passenger seat, for warning triangles & flares & such, so all other concerns aside, yeah, not selling my passenger seats! ;)
 

BigBison

Member
317
1
18
Location
Yampa, CO
It's the gearing (or lack thereof) that is the real issue. Yesterday the SEE simply ran out of power. Keeping the revs up to power the snowblower obviously speeds the SEE up, too.
In an ideal world, hydrostatic drive would be the solution, but cost and possibly also much generated heat rules that one out.
I'd gladly give up the seldom used high range for a lower low range, if there is such an option. How about it, you gear heads (no pun intended) out there, is there a relatively simple and affordable way to get lower gearing in a SEE? If so, having it both on the SEE and the HMMH would be most helpful.
Hmmm. I'd rather get more power from my SEE's motor. Or, rather, just make its existing power range more tractor than truck/bus, i.e. lower down the RPM range. You're obviously ahead of me on this, but it doesn't surprise me you want lower gearing whereas I want more power. ;)

I will say, that every time I throttle up to hit a snowbank hard enough to scoop it up in the SEE's loader bucket and slowly move that load somewhere else, I wish I had any sort of snowblower because that's what I'd go to 90% of the time around here, this time of year and all.

But I'm a long way from gearing down the FLUs, although I won't disagree with you that they don't really need to make 50mph on the highway, especially if that makes 'em more functional working off-road. But, you may be right, so I'll follow your progress and copy as needed! :D
 

The FLU farm

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Bison, I agree that knowing how a vehicle will act/react under "unusual" circumstances can be a life saver. And it bugs me when I haven't tried going sideways in something yet. Except for the FLUs. But who knows, one day my balls may get big enough...

If I had to try uprighting the SEE with the HMMH, I'd use the clevis installed on the tab at the "mid point", definitely not the hook at the end. Also would use a winch. And realistically I'd probably only "take the edge off" with those two methods, then try pulling it over in normal Jeep roll-over fashion using a strap and the M1008. But who knows what the situation will be like when that day comes. Although, it's a safe bet that I'll have a hard time operating all three at once, making it that much harder.

Three hands?? I wish I had at least four. Today it dawned on me that one reason I like running the SEE (with the snowblower) is that there's only one lever to worry about; the loader, up or down. Plus shifting between forward and reverse as needed, of course.
I love levers, the more the merrier, but there is a limit to what I can accomplish with them in a speedy fashion. Spent four-plus hours plowing with the tractor today. It has four levers for the rear blade and two for the front plow, plus a range shifter, a shifter, and a fwd/rev lever. The fwd/rev is a LH, and the loader (up/down) can be manipulated with the left hand as needed, but the rest is RH use only.
No wonder the SEE is relaxing in comparison. Of course, it would help immensely if I would only run either the front or the rear blade, but nooo, I almost always run both at once. And lose gravel on the driveway accordingly.

Having to use two levers on the SEE's loader took some getting used to, but I can either lower or raise it while keeping the bucket level (can't remember which now) somewhat elegantly using two hands on the levers while steering with my leg. Clearing snow with its bucket I could not. I'm finally getting good with one of the tractors, and it does seem quite efficient to use a bucket rather than blades only.

Not sure that more power would do me any good. Less speed I know would. And better operator skills would, too. For now, the most logical solutions (in my mind) are to put 15 to 20% shorter tires on the HMMH and a separate power unit and pump on the SEE for the snowblower.
Not having the snowblower stop when pushing the clutch in would be most helpful (I'm getting good at clearing the chute), and having 200-something hp engine running the snowblower only would allow moving at the relatively high speeds a FLU runs in its lowest gears. I have the 350 SB engine already, and bell housings, so a clutch, an appropriate pump, hydraulic reservoir, etc. would have to be sourced/made.
Then again, learning to take shallower cuts would likely make it work fine as is, but I crave heading into the biggest drifts without having to lift. The loader, that is.
 

The FLU farm

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Oh, them doing strange stuff is perfectly normal. And I'm sure that if you could be a wee bit more specific, someone would be able to try to help.
Seems like peakbagger, choprboy and a few others know more about SEEs than should be legally allowed.
 

peakbagger

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northern nh
I haven't messed with my hydraulics so cant be of much help. Its not that I know the SEE any better, I just got it year earlier than most folks and have a years head start on chasing down bugs. I am an engineer by trade so I usually try to research the crap out of something trying to figure out why it doesn't work instead of the "get a bigger hammer approach". Unlike the folks that are actually trying to rely on a SEE, mines still a hobby so I can afford to analyze things for a bit before acting.

Its starting to look like mine is going to be set up for log skidding part time so I expect the backhoe is going to come off in the spring and I will design a log hoist to swap in.
 

Foxyjosh

Member
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0
6
Location
Northeast /OH
....No wonder the SEE is relaxing in comparison. Of course, it would help immensely if I would only run either the front or the rear blade, but nooo, I almost always run both at once. And lose gravel on the driveway accordingly.....
Take a piece of PVC pipe and slit the length of it on a table saw. Then, spread the gap apart and slide it over the blade on the tractor. Now, the blade won't dig into the rock but, it will still clean off the snow.
 

snowtrac nome

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once my buddy stands the digger up. some times it can take 5 minutes of fiddling around to get the arm to extend than it works fine the rest of the day. Than there is a problem with the bucket he will scoop a load, and again some times when he dumps the bucket the arms drop instead of dumping the bucket. The problems sound like a shuttle valve sticking I don't know if they are related. is there one control valve for all the functions controlled by a pilot circuit or are these things likely un related because every circuit is isolated with a control block. I only ask as I haven't had a chance to look closely at it yet and kind of trying to get familiar with the system before I start poking around once the snow melts and the days get longer.
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
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Ok, I am at it again, have tack working though at times looses ground, temp gauge now works, NO fluid in the clutch reservoir need to find where it went, maybe the rat drank it, had to put the pto engaged then start the engine, rolled the backhoe to work position, have two froze control levers, still have some wiring issues, no air build yet.

Now some questions,
1--Is dot 5 used ?
2--Does anybody have a brake/clutch reservoir cap, rat ate part of the cap and lost one of the contacts
3--Does anybody have a good oil pressure sender, still can not get the oil pressure gauge to work, so I want to start with a sender that works, then fix or run new wires to the gauge.

The more I work on this POS, the gladder I am that IT DO NOT OWN IT.
 

Another Ahab

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I've been reading. Picking up that Daimler Benz maybe OVER-engineers a lot of their product (meaning they don't leave well-enough alone, and just leave things simple where simple will do the job).

Is that maybe why this thread seems to highlight SO much trouble with the SEES?

I mean I get it, if there weren't trouble at all, then there'd be no thread. But does anybody think that some of the features are too slick for their own good?
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
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It is the FREAKIN wiring, every thing else is not to bad, who ever designed the wiring had way to much time on there hands, could have been watching porrn and keep there hands busy, I have NEVER seen wiring this big of a mess since I started messing with trucks and heavy equipment.
 
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Another Ahab

Well-known member
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Location
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Hello.
Can install a front and rear pto on my Flu419.
thank you
Bruno Angers
Welcome. It looks like your first post.

Are you saying that that is what you plan to do? Or maybe that you already did it?

Peut-être le français est votre premier language, et l'anglais votre seconde. C'est ça?
(Mon français, ce n'est pas si bon, alors. Il y'a plusieurs d'années.) :naner::roll:
 
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snowtrac nome

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it is the way Europeans do things the bv 206 aka susv is the same way you have to be Einstein to follow the schematic. as for electrical just look at the acronym for lucas loose unsoldered connections and splices
 

The FLU farm

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it is the way Europeans do things the bv 206 aka susv is the same way you have to be Einstein to follow the schematic.
Hey, when even I can manage the schematic, it can't be all that hard. Since the honorable General Hood thankfully offered us those wall charts (which I had to refer to today again) it is fairly simple to figure the electrical out. Without, it would've been tricky indeed. Those wall charts are worth they're weight in gold, I think, even if they had come plated in glass instead of plastic.

On those hydraulic malfunctions, as far as I know the front and rear systems are completely separate. That should make troubleshooting them a little easier.

And speaking of a little easier, today was supposed to be minor cleanup. Instead it snowed over night and turned into another full day of snow blowing and plowing. But, it was substantially cooler, which helped with not getting the tractor stuck (first time in four days) and made the snow blower do impressive things.
DSCN0112[1].jpg
Not only did it now go though 2-something feet of snow (old and new), but even through old piles from plowing that are complete with frozen chunks. Guess it's not only operator error here but also temperature related.
And I'll have to try that pipe on the blade trick. Not that I understand how the blade can still work well (other than in loose snow) but that's very far from the only thing I couldn't grasp until trying.
 
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