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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

Yama

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Location
Bay Area / CA
Hi, Does anyone have the instructions to remove the front loader?
One youtube video I seen says it can be removed in 15min but didn't show how.
Thanks
 

skippytdi

New member
24
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0
Location
portland ct
Front loader removal.

The video you saw pretty much shows it all. A special jack is placed in the rectangular hole in the loader frame, the two garmonstrous bolts at the bottom of the loader frame are removed, the hydraulic lines are disconnected and the loader is jacked up and off frame. I didn't have the jack but i have an excavator so i strapped the loader at the top tube and lifted up.
The factory jack is essentially just a super long trailer jack with a attachment point that fits inside that rectangular hole in your loader.



Hi, Does anyone have the instructions to remove the front loader?
One youtube video I seen says it can be removed in 15min but didn't show how.
Thanks
 

skippytdi

New member
24
0
0
Location
portland ct
Wiring schematics are located in the -20-1 Technical manual starting in section 3-1. There is no "wiring schematic" per se. Each electrical malfunction is broken down and shows that particular part of the electrical diagram. I have been through it a few times and it appears to me to cover all electrical systems and all wiring.



I have the cause of my dashboard electrical problem, rats or some other critter. I pulled the fuse panel and the intake air duct and found the remnants of a some sort of critters nest. I don't mind critters sharing space, but this one chomped through wiring. I pulled the instruments and on some connectors only 1 out 6 wires are connected to anything. Most of the wires are cut clean but others are gnawed on. Luckily the damage is centered in one specific area which runs to the dash so the starter circuit and running lights were not affected. I expect the critters are long gone as I bought the truck from someone in texas and figure that's where the damage occurred, it was shipped to northern NH and sat outdoors all winter with temps get a slow as 30 below.

If the wiring harness had color codes or if there was a electrical schematic it would be an easier fix but using what little electrical diagnosis there is in the manuals I guess its down to tracing wiring and reverse engineering what is inside the dash components .
 

bchauvette

New member
810
12
0
Location
Easley SC USA, 29640
Careful there. If that bucket rotates the least bit you will find the loader embedded in your hood and grill.
Obviously you are the MOG guy. Very impressive motor pool. But I'm not quite following what you mean. There is a 4x4 support sitting on some bricks going to the bottom of square box where the jacking device would go. Are you concerned that the support could be knocked out when backing away or approaching? The bucket is sitting flat on the ground. The hydraulics are completely relived with no tension by working the controls back and forth with the PTO disengaged.

An important side note. Please,Please be aware of your body position during this process. It is very easy to put your self in harms way. Continue to ask your self as your work "What wold happen if this should fall at this point?"
 

flu419

New member
9
0
0
Location
Dallas, Tejas
Model 419.101
name David
city Dallas
state Tx
misc 521 miles + 1101miles I drove it @ 46mph
acc. Chainsaw, rock drill, jackhammer, complete tool kit
needs - air hose for remote tire fill, etc. & Battery box key

runs great , can't get the backhoe to lock back in position to be stowed - no leaky hoses, no leaky anything
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
63
Location
northern nh
Seems to be pretty standard that getting the backhoe back and locked is a pretty common issue. Mine has it. I asked this question before and folks with experience stated that in order for it to swing back enough to lock is to bring it back at full speed, most new owners try to go slow and it doesn't work. I have tried it full speed and it gets closer but it hasn't latch yet so I swing the bucket to stow position and use the stabilizer arm to lift up on the bucket and it goes into place.
 

flu419

New member
9
0
0
Location
Dallas, Tejas
LTook a break from the Texas heat to have a Gulden Draak.
the Chief of Police I bought it from mentioned something along this line, but I was drooling too much to listen to that part but now it clicks! I'll try this fix next.

thanks for ye quick response. I'd like to find the air hose so I can use the truck as an air compressor at the hanger.
 

bchauvette

New member
810
12
0
Location
Easley SC USA, 29640
Seems to be pretty standard that getting the backhoe back and locked is a pretty common issue. Mine has it. I asked this question before and folks with experience stated that in order for it to swing back enough to lock is to bring it back at full speed, most new owners try to go slow and it doesn't work. I have tried it full speed and it gets closer but it hasn't latch yet so I swing the bucket to stow position and use the stabilizer arm to lift up on the bucket and it goes into place.
that what I do to. Swing all the way to the right side of the vehicle then lift the outrigger on the right side to push the arm into locking position.
 

skippytdi

New member
24
0
0
Location
portland ct
to stow/lock the backhoe you pull back on the lever and when you see that it has reached the end of its travel
you push the same lever as if you wanted to drop the backhoe arm back down. its an over center design, the stowing method seems
strange but once you get used to the technique it makes sense.

Seems to be pretty standard that getting the backhoe back and locked is a pretty common issue. Mine has it. I asked this question before and folks with experience stated that in order for it to swing back enough to lock is to bring it back at full speed, most new owners try to go slow and it doesn't work. I have tried it full speed and it gets closer but it hasn't latch yet so I swing the bucket to stow position and use the stabilizer arm to lift up on the bucket and it goes into place.
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
63
Location
northern nh
I ended up with the optional ripper bucket. it is not shown in the manuals but is listed as an optional part. It is a beast with some major hardened steel hooks welded to the back of the bucket. makes for a not very neat hole. I plan to be looking for a standard bucket once I get some bugs worked out.
 

skippytdi

New member
24
0
0
Location
portland ct
I ended up with the optional ripper bucket. it is not shown in the manuals but is listed as an optional part. It is a beast with some major hardened steel hooks welded to the back of the bucket. makes for a not very neat hole. I plan to be looking for a standard bucket once I get some bugs worked out.
Pictures would be nice.
Ur looking at a Unit modified bucket. The attachment has been welded on. a sound premise if your in the middle of god knows where and you rely on the beast.
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
63
Location
northern nh
Actually I think its this part number. The installed bucket doesn't have provisions for a ripper claw that the standard bucket is equipped with.

3830-01-361-8209 Ripper, Bucket
(12177) 020-189
A EA 1
its listed in the Operations Manual Additional Authorization List. but not on the HR AAL list.

Its made by Wain Roy and their name is welded on the sides of the bucket as well as two data plates.

https://www.google.com/search?q=wai...Jm0c7HIYM:&usg=__AZmhp-bDqq2oJ-Fxz5bQYftoLRk=

The picture isn't exact as it doesn't have the Case Attachment but the hooks are the same. Its a gnarly looking beast. I am currently digging stumps and it seems to work quite well at grabbing roots. The trade off it seems to limit the initial bucket penetration a there is a lot more surface area to push into the ground.
 
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