• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

MrSEE

Member
31
0
6
Location
Billings, MT
4 SEEs at the moment! Interesting, versatile...if not strange... machines. Reporting for duty with one dedicated SEE for testing/improvement and 3 more for sale.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,342
1,328
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I'd love to have one, too. Seems that someone could make a few bucks by coming up with, and selling, those schematics.
Laminated would be nice, but not essential.
 

tendermos

New member
9
0
0
Location
naples fl
Does anyone knows if the pressure switch (that sits on top of 2 big fuel filters) controls the auxiliary throttle only? I kinda want to disconnect it since it is leaking. I can raise the RPMs from the main cabin manually.
I don't see any diagrams of the switch assembly. Everywhere it is treated as a single piece. I started it without the switch being connected to the electrical component and everything worked fine.
 

Bikers33

New member
129
1
0
Location
British Columbia
Does anyone knows if the pressure switch (that sits on top of 2 big fuel filters) controls the auxiliary throttle only? I kinda want to disconnect it since it is leaking. I can raise the RPMs from the main cabin manually.
I don't see any diagrams of the switch assembly. Everywhere it is treated as a single piece. I started it without the switch being connected to the electrical component and everything worked fine.
That's your fuel pressure differential switch or STE/ICE-R switch and has nothing to do with idle control. Auxiliary idle is achieved with a 24volt electrical solenoid triggered with the switches on the rear left of the FLU which supplies air to the little cylinder that's linked to the throttle linkage on the driver's side
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
63
Location
northern nh
My guess is that that switch is part of the service diagnostic system and not part of the remote throttle. Unless you were real lucky to get the electronic unit that plugs into the service diagnostic port the system is useless.


The remote throttle system is an air cylinder hooked to the throttle linkage and supplied air from a solenoid that is actuated by either the switch on the backhoe or the hydraulic tool switch. There is a section on the electrical diagnostics on this circuit. I would check the fuse for the rear of the truck if the remote throttle is not working.
 

tendermos

New member
9
0
0
Location
naples fl
My guess is that that switch is part of the service diagnostic system and not part of the remote throttle. Unless you were real lucky to get the electronic unit that plugs into the service diagnostic port the system is useless.

The remote throttle system is an air cylinder hooked to the throttle linkage and supplied air from a solenoid that is actuated by either the switch on the backhoe or the hydraulic tool switch. There is a section on the electrical diagnostics on this circuit. I would check the fuse for the rear of the truck if the remote throttle is not working.
Got it. Even better. One more useless part eliminated!

With the hydraulic tools switch - it was a fuse indeed. Fixed it some time ago.

Also replaced the fuel pump for the new one, however the old one was still working, so if someone needs it - I have it.
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
63
Location
northern nh
I am seriously tempted to remove the STE/ICE wiring whenever I find it. It looks like it was something added onto the stock harness. I was going to take that pressure switch off but those darn metric tubing threads are such a pain to figure out exactly what metric thread system applies.

If the fuse blows again look around for my posts on shorted hydraulic cooling fans.
 
46
1
0
Location
Tulsa
I got mine running ok. Until I played with the hoe and hit the HI/LO switch, then it revved high and wouldn't go back down at the switch, or cabin controls. Still idles crazy on occasion (sometimes high, sometimes sputtering to death), so I suspect that the air pressure not building up past 40 PSI, and/or the old solenoid is to blame.

Drove it up to get breakfast the other day, a couple hours after I got back I realized that the inside of the front passenger side tire is wet. Looks like the gear box was giving me fits. So I got the rebuild parts, and some Lucas Oil on the way. I know, 5mm deeper for the seal. 2 steps forward, one step back it seems.

I'm almost scared to get the hydraulics to operating temp and see what happens.
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
Steel Soldiers Supporter
In Memorial
12,195
325
0
Location
gainesville, ga.
Well I have read ALL 23 pages of this thread and have NOT found the answer to my question, I had a SEE picked up from Hook I think, had it delivered to may place here in GA, it had to be slaved off both for the loading/unloading, has NOT started since, no matter how long I slave it, nothing, the master switch is turned, it is acting like the master is still off, I tried the lift the wood panel next to the seat to see down in around the master switch but not much luck, I have confirmed that I have 24v to the batteries and the wires leaving the batteries, so WHAT IS MY ISSUE, WHAT AM i MISSING AND WHERE DO i LOOK.

The SEE is not mine but a clients that I need to get running, fix a few thing and rig it so a auger can be attached to the boom.

Thanks everybody.
 

tendermos

New member
9
0
0
Location
naples fl
Well I have read ALL 23 pages of this thread and have NOT found the answer to my question, I had a SEE picked up from Hook I think, had it delivered to may place here in GA, it had to be slaved off both for the loading/unloading, has NOT started since, no matter how long I slave it, nothing, the master switch is turned, it is acting like the master is still off, I tried the lift the wood panel next to the seat to see down in around the master switch but not much luck, I have confirmed that I have 24v to the batteries and the wires leaving the batteries, so WHAT IS MY ISSUE, WHAT AM i MISSING AND WHERE DO i LOOK.
Thanks everybody.
I had to spend 3 hours figuring why this thing did not start right off. Found that clutch pedal when depressed, was not pushing the small switch completely. Adjusted - started right away.
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
Steel Soldiers Supporter
In Memorial
12,195
325
0
Location
gainesville, ga.
I had to spend 3 hours figuring why this thing did not start right off. Found that clutch pedal when depressed, was not pushing the small switch completely. Adjusted - started right away.
Thank you, I will try that, though I am getting nothing to the cab, no gauges, no lights, no horn, being that I do not know the wiring in the truck, I will take any suggestions, I must say the SEE may be fun to work but is NOT fun to work on unless you have hands the size of a 5 year old and arms as long as a NBA player.
 

Andyrv6av8r

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,200
457
83
Location
Spartanburg,SC
Thank you, I will try that, though I am getting nothing to the cab, no gauges, no lights, no horn, being that I do not know the wiring in the truck, I will take any suggestions, I must say the SEE may be fun to work but is NOT fun to work on unless you have hands the size of a 5 year old and arms as long as a NBA player.
My bet is a fuse under the hood. They're notorious to blow and hard to see if bad. Use a meter and check them. Mine did the exact same thing as yours and it was a fuse.
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
63
Location
northern nh
There is panel you can remove to get access to the starter. I would check for power at the solenoid. Folks end up starting the truck by jumping the solenoid and then tracing back why the solenoid is not pulling in.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,342
1,328
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Thank you, I will try that, though I am getting nothing to the cab, no gauges, no lights, no horn, being that I do not know the wiring in the truck
It could be that your cut-off switch (by the loader levers) is about as good as the ones in my SEE and the HMMH. Every now and then nothing lights up when turning the switch on in the HMMH, but it always helps to turn it on a second time.
In the SEE the switch probably got wounded when I used a stick (before getting the correct "key") and that one is responsible for a rather large power loss, which becomes very obvious when the temperature drops below 10, or so.
I might try shimming the one in the HMMH, but the SEE's switch will need corrective surgery of some kind.
 

Foxyjosh

Member
53
0
6
Location
Northeast /OH
Just got my FLU419 from govpanet - LOVE THIS THING!!!!

Everything worked. Was completely up to the description provided. Moreover, came complete with hydraulic tools - big surprise.

Now, after driving from Miami to Naples (100 miles) my hydraulic tools stopped responding to the on/off button. Before it brought RPMs up and now nothing happens. Hydraulic fluid flows but no air pressure (air pump is working). Also, now I can't control RPMs from the backhoe and I assume its related.
Any ideas what might cause this?
That's where i got mine from. I thought I got the hydraulic tools in mine but, WHO THE HECK PADLOCKS AN EMPTY STORAGE CONTAINER ANYWAY?!? Although I have a hole in the oil pan from a chain slipping when Uncle Sam was putting in the new engine, I still need some help with some wires in knowing where they go. Also I don't have a switch under the clutch.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,342
1,328
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Speaking of needing help, I've spent hours now trying to find out what the flow rate and pressure for the rear hydraulic system is.
I'm hoping to run a (front mounted) hydraulic snow blower off of the PTO driven pump, but as mentioned, I've failed miserably in finding those specs.
Any idea, someone? Please.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,342
1,328
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Now, after driving from Miami to Naples (100 miles) my hydraulic tools stopped responding to the on/off button. Before it brought RPMs up and now nothing happens. Hydraulic fluid flows but no air pressure (air pump is working). Also, now I can't control RPMs from the backhoe and I assume its related.
Any ideas what might cause this?
While looking for hydraulic info, I came across a mention (somewhere) that the high idle is through an air operated gizmo.
You mention "no air pressure", so if you really don't have any, the high idle setup wouldn't work.
 
46
1
0
Location
Tulsa
Why, I saw this just earlier today. Enjoy!

TM 5-2420-224-20-1 UNIT MAINTENANCE MANUAL
Page 1-7

"Hydraulic System
Front (SEE)
Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Engine
Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 gpm @ 2450 psi (30 Lpm @ 167bar) @ 2000 engine rpm
Use . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front loader and machine tools
Rear (SEE)
Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .PTO
Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 gpm @ 2450 psi (98 Lpm @ 167bar) @ 2000 engine rpm
Use . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Backhoe



Front (HMMH)
Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Engine
Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 gpm @ 2450 psi (30 Lpm @ 167bar) @ 2000 engine rpm
Use . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Forklift and impact wrench
Rear (HMMH)
Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PTO
Capacity . . . . . . . . . . .. . 14 gpm @ 2450 psi (54 Lpm at 167 bar) @ 1100 engine rpm
Use . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Crane"
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks