• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
63
Location
northern nh
There might be two warning buzzers one for low air pressure but there is also a system described on 3-215 titled
71. LOW OIL PRESSURE AND HIGH WATER TEMPERATURE ALARM WILL NOT SOUND WITH
PRESS-TO-TEST SWITCH DEPRESSED.

This is supposed to be audible from the backhoe seat so it must be really loud. My press to test switch doesn't work. I am not worried about loss of air pressure from the backhoe seat as the throttle lock stops working as air pressure drops (sorry for the bold text, the text editor will not let me turn it off


 

General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
Great news on the progress, One circuit that I didn't need to delve into is the warning buzzer system. I think it will go off with loss of air pressure oil pressure and possibly engine high temp but it was intentionally disconnected on mine. The wiring appears complete, but the buzzer is disconnected. I guess we should be happy that we didn't end up with one like the one that 73M819 is working on which sound to have far more extensive damage.

I also used heat shrink tubing over the splices, one thing I found out after I was halfway through is that its available in white. I switched to white so that I could locate them in the future.

Have you checked the clutch safety switch wiring on the starter circuit? I have seen several references where its misadjusted so pushing the clutch down doesn't engage the switch and its also in the potential "rat zone" so it could just be gnawed off.
Thank you, I will look into that gnaw possibility
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
Steel Soldiers Supporter
In Memorial
12,195
320
0
Location
gainesville, ga.
Well update for today, when I first looked at the rat mess, my first thought was "F where do I start, there is NO good point to start", so I decided to find out WHY no power switch to the on/off, well I knew the answer "RAT" but WHERE did he have dinner, of course a place a rat can get to but NOT that I can, so after doing some SEARCH, pulled half the SEE wiring apart, spliced dinner, then reinstalled, tried to get the start button to work but no luck, tomorrow a NEW wire from the starter solenoid to the start button, screw the clutch button, also got the master relay to click in. Tho only new rat dinner that I found was that he ATE the connector (at least 3/4 of it) from the over flow tank to the flow hose. Hopefully tomorrow WILL be a good day with the outcome being able to start the engine with the start button .
 
Last edited:

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Hopefully tomorrow WILL be a good day with the outcome being able to start the engine with the start button .
Ron, I hope you're right.
There's plenty of evidence that rodents had planned to make a cozy home in my parts SEE, but so far I haven't found any damage. Lots of twigs and other debris, though.
It could be that they picked mine to live in, and used yours and a few others to dine out in.
Nah, I wouldn't be that lucky. My rat(s) were probably eaten by a big old Texas rattler...that I haven't found yet.
 

General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
Well update for today, when I first looked at the rat mess, my first thought was "F where do I start, there is NO good point to start", so I decided to find out WHY no power switch to the on/off, well I knew the answer "RAT" but WHERE did he have dinner, of course a place a rat can get to but NOT that I can, so after doing some SEARCH, pulled half the SEE wiring apart, spliced dinner, then reinstalled, tried to get the start button to work but no luck, tomorrow a NEW wire from the starter solenoid to the start button, screw the clutch button, also got the master relay to click in. Tho only new rat dinner that I found was that he ATE the connector (at least 3/4 of it) from the over flow tank to the flow hose. Hopefully tomorrow WILL be a good day with the outcome being able to start the engine with the start button .
Good luck with your quest sir. Keep us posted on your progress.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Hello I own an FLU-419, have a question concerning the type of coolant?
I have yet to change coolant, so I haven't given it any thought. Not sure if the SEE likes the diesel truck type with all the additives, or is fine with regular coolant.
There's always the choice between regular (of either kind) and long-life, but I don't think that's what you were asking about.

Regarding the flasher relay, again, I'm the wrong person to answer since I haven't messed with one. But I'm guessing that a standard 24-Volt flasher was used. At least flashers seem to be somewhat standardized.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,990
4,535
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
Ron, I hope you're right.
There's plenty of evidence that rodents had planned to make a cozy home in my parts SEE, but so far I haven't found any damage. Lots of twigs and other debris, though.
It could be that they picked mine to live in, and used yours and a few others to dine out in.
Nah, I wouldn't be that lucky. My rat(s) were probably eaten by a big old Texas rattler...that I haven't found yet.
The world's best rat catching machine!

And for catching rattlers? The Indigo Snake; they LOVE rattlesnake.
 

ricstv

New member
5
0
0
Location
Norwalk/Ohio
Thanks From Northern Ohio

You look new on board here, so for the record:

- Welcome from Virginia.
Thanks for the welcome, I have relatives in Virginia near Petersburg, and Chester. So what do you use for Coolant in your flu-419? The liquid that is in it now is clear, not sure what it is?
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
So what do you use for Coolant in your flu-419? The liquid that is in it now is clear, not sure what it is?
It shouldn't be clear, not in Ohio. Yes, you need the necessary additives to keep the water pump happy everywhere, but you also need freeze protection.
For now, dump what's in there and and add regular anti freeze of your choice in the percentage needed for your area.
You can always replace it later, but it sounds like you should put something in there for now.
 
46
1
0
Location
Tulsa
I forget the trail that led me there, but I found out that Prestone AF2000 was to spec for the SEE. I pondered adding the Lucas Super Coolant stuff to the mix as well, and I still can't decide. I'm planning on using a 60%/30% mix, 14.4 Quarts of pure AF2000 to 9.6 Quarts of water. Some say not to use distilled, but I can't understand the harm in it. Meh.
 

BnaditCorps

Member
479
1
18
Location
Solano County, California
I forget the trail that led me there, but I found out that Prestone AF2000 was to spec for the SEE. I pondered adding the Lucas Super Coolant stuff to the mix as well, and I still can't decide. I'm planning on using a 60%/30% mix, 14.4 Quarts of pure AF2000 to 9.6 Quarts of water. Some say not to use distilled, but I can't understand the harm in it. Meh.
I hope you are filling that last 10%. Unless my math serves me wrong 60+30=90 :lol:
 
Top