FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[patrol578]

About STE/ICE

Here's a response to peakbagger's post way back on page 185 of this thread.

I oversaw a heavy Army maintenance shop in the late 90's. We had the STE/ICE equipment, but it was very rarely used. In my 2.5 years there, I can only remember seeing it hooked up to a vehicle once...and that was to train a new guy. And we had five of the boxes.

But for those who may be curious, there are a couple of manuals out there for your reading pleasure. I was going to post them, but someone has already beat me to it: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?132329-Ste-ice-tm9-4910-571-12-amp-p.

You may find them particularly useful if you're having trouble falling asleep.

 

[911joeblow]

Yep dropped it to the ground...

Wish I could've done that. Did you really remove the rear bracket, too?
Had the tank sat just a bit lower on this SEE I could've slid it forward after only removing the straps. And could've worked on the hose connections without moving or removing anything.

 

[The FLU farm]

Yep dropped it to the ground...

It would be great to be able to drop the tank completely, but I don't see that happening without removing the rear bracket. Or the bed above it.
If you don't mind, what sort of sockets/wobblies/extensions did you use for the rear bracket (you did mention air tools earlier)? I had to use a combination of 3/8" and 1/2" drive stuff to get the relatively easily accessible front bracket fasteners off, using a rechargeable impact.
With the muffler in the way, getting to the rear fasteners is probably easier with hand tools, but with arthritis in my hands I try not to use wrenches too much, or I'm paying for it for days afterwards. And frankly, my body in general isn't as resilient as it was 40 years ago.

 

[Another Ahab]

With the muffler in the way, getting to the rear fasteners is probably easier with hand tools, but with arthritis in my hands I try not to use wrenches too much, or I'm paying for it for days afterwards. And frankly, my body in general isn't as resilient as it was 40 years ago.

I can't even remember that far back, so the good news at this end is I can no longer recall the "good old days".

 

[911joeblow]

I used to build Porsche Race cars for a living so I am pretty good at getting into tight places (while curing in German of course) to get things done. Is it possible your brackets were bent up by a forklift or something? I slipped my tank out without removing the rear bracket, but I did have to pull the straps completely out, not just loose.

 

[Another Ahab]

I used to build Porsche Race cars for a living so I am pretty good at getting into tight places (while cursing in German of course) to get things done. Is it possible your brackets were bent up by a forklift or something? I slipped my tank out without removing the rear bracket, but I did have to pull the straps completely out, not just loose.

I bet that sounds convincing in German.

 

[The FLU farm]

I would like the numbers and source as I cant get enough numbers off mine to figure out where to get them. Conversely they appear to be standard flat face couplers which if I knew the size could just order.

Okay, got the QD numbers for the ones I use. They're FF-371-8FO and FF-372-8FO.
Those were the ones I chose for NPT hoses with adapters. You may want different ones depending on if you use NPT, O-ring, or JIC hoses.
Are those the correct ones? I don't know for sure. Took measurements off the ones on the SEE then spent quality time looking at charts of various couplers available until I found ones that matched.
Either way, they do work with the FLU's tool hoses and I suppose that's what counts.

 

[The FLU farm]

I slipped my tank out without removing the rear bracket, but I did have to pull the straps completely out, not just loose.

Have yet to figure out why things on this particular SEE aren't lined up quite like on other FLUs. That the tank sits a couple of inches higher than normal isn't due to forklift damage (although there is plenty of it, both underneath and in the sheet metal). I think that the front of the bed is too low - there seems to be two sets of mounting holes - which would explain the misalignment between the ROPS and hydraulic tanks, for example.
Those things don't bother me, especially since this SEE is the most likely to get rolled anyway, but it is sucky not to be able to get to the hose connections, or get the tank out in normal fashion.
An electric fuel pump will be the next step, before I wear out the manual priming pump, and should show any upstream leaks and/or prove if the problem is in the tank. Considering what was in that tank, that possibility is definitely not ruled out.

 

[911joeblow]

Thanks. Mine are definitely EATON though so I wonder if they are compatible? I guess I will try and see.

Okay, got the QD numbers for the ones I use. They're FF-371-8FO and FF-372-8FO.
Those were the ones I chose for NPT hoses with adapters. You may want different ones depending on if you use NPT, O-ring, or JIC hoses.
Are those the correct ones? I don't know for sure. Took measurements off the ones on the SEE then spent quality time looking at charts of various couplers available until I found ones that matched.
Either way, they do work with the FLU's tool hoses and I suppose that's what counts.

 

[73m819]

Well it has come to the point of the oil pressure sender, I AM NOT GOING TO PAY $225 for a MB sender, screw that, I hunted and found a mini mechanical oil pressure gauge (1 1/2") that is going to be installed. the price for a 3 gauge set for $34, if I can find a single gauge unit, great if not the 3 gauge is STILL cheaper then $225.

 

[The FLU farm]

Well it has come to the point of the oil pressure sender, I AM NOT GOING TO PAY $225 for a MB sender, screw that, I hunted and found a mini mechanical oil pressure gauge (1 1/2") that is going to be installed. the price for a 3 gauge set for $34, if I can find a single gauge unit, great if not the 3 gauge is STILL cheaper then $225.

Pure guesswork on my part, but being that the OM352 seems to be a common engine, it probably has an even more common sending unit. Have you tried that path?

 

[88FLU419]

I also removed my tank by just taking off the straps.

I used to build Porsche Race cars for a living so I am pretty good at getting into tight places (while curing in German of course) to get things done. Is it possible your brackets were bent up by a forklift or something? I slipped my tank out without removing the rear bracket, but I did have to pull the straps completely out, not just loose.

 

[peakbagger]

Pure guesswork on my part, but being that the OM352 seems to be a common engine, it probably has an even more common sending unit. Have you tried that path?

I expect that the reason its so expensive is it may be specific to the SEE as it most likely has two circuits in one unit? One circuit would supply the Mercedes oil pressure gauge and one supply's the diagnostic system (which is useless without an unavailable diagnostic box). It would be interesting if the resistance of both pressure circuits are the same resistance so someone could just swap the leads so that the oil pressure sending unit would use the diagnostic circuit side of the sending unit. Might be worth checking with a European parts dealer to see what fits a OM 352 application that s not a SEE. The other alternative is to see what will fit a 1300 as it doesn't have the harness.

 

[peakbagger]

I also removed my tank by just taking off the straps.

I did the same, but would suggest hitting the strap threads with paint remover as mine were gunked up with paint.

 

[73m819]

Pure guesswork on my part, but being that the OM352 seems to be a common engine, it probably has an even more common sending unit. Have you tried that path?

The sender is a common part to a lot of MB engines, the reason it is SO expensive is that it has MB stamped on it and believe it or not, this is the first time that I have NOT found a after market replacement, MB must have a lock on the whole sender just like most MB parts.

 

[peakbagger]

Looking at the electrical schematic, the oil pressure switch shown has two outputs, one is a NO switch that goes to ground and is routed to the warning buzzer in the cab that many folks disconnect. It is an outright alarm that the oil pressure is too low and most likely the contacts close under a certain pressure. The other output is a variable resistor that goes to ground. This feeds the oil pressure gauge. If someone had a spare good transmitter they could range the variable resistor and expect they could buy an off the shelf oil pressure sending unit with the same range. Odds are its a Bosch part with Mercedes logo and its highly likely its a standard range . I expect the connection could be teed with space for a pressure switch if someone wants to keep the low oil pressure warning. Unfortunately the diagram doesn't show the diagnostic system wiring so not sure how its gets its signal.

(I used to work in work in an over 100 year old pulp and papermill keeping very old machinery running with little or no documentation. There wasn't the option to call the manufacturer for new parts as they may have been out of business for 50 years so I was forced to think my way out of stuff like this. Of course over the years some folks would just cut the leads and then at some later date someone else needed to deal with the wreck when the oil pressure did get too low. Most of the place is a filled in hole in the ground )

 

[The FLU farm]

I expect that the reason its so expensive is it may be specific to the SEE as it most likely has two circuits in one unit? One circuit would supply the Mercedes oil pressure gauge and one supply's the diagnostic system (which is useless without an unavailable diagnostic box). It would be interesting if the resistance of both pressure circuits are the same resistance so someone could just swap the leads so that the oil pressure sending unit would use the diagnostic circuit side of the sending unit.

If both outputs on the sender has the same function it would be a real blessing for those with low oil pressure. Then they could connect both outputs to the pressure gauge and double the reading on the gauge.

 

[patrol578]

Here's something on FLU oil pressure from tennmogger on another thread: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?125668-FLU-419-assistance-needed

Not sure whether anyone has tried his troubleshooting process, but he seems to know his way around Mogs very well.

 

[patrol578]

The sender is a common part to a lot of MB engines, the reason it is SO expensive [IN THE UNITED STATES--edit: patrol578] is that it has MB stamped on it and believe it or not, this is the first time that I have NOT found a after market replacement, MB must have a lock on the whole sender just like most MB parts.

Searching the european parts websites for an OM352 oil pressure sender gets you part number 001 542 56 17, which matches the part number on EI. Try this one: https://www.truckparts1919.com/febi-bilstein-oil-pressure-sensors-5050525/
Much less expensive, even with shipping across the pond.

 

[Another Ahab]

The reason it is so expensive IN THE UNITED STATES is that it has MB stamped on it.

Much less expensive, even with shipping across the pond.

Someone helpful posted that here already (or in another thread). Apparently that's the MB business model, pushing their product in the U.S. as luxury and tacking on the price points accordingly.


The human nature to want to be seen as a part of the "exclusive class" does all the rest; folks pay exorbitantly to belong to the exclusive club.

So they can say "I'm special". MB is just making hay out of that, and playing it for all its worth (don't buy the car, buy the stock).