FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[patrol578]

I hear ya Ahab. I bought mine for the functionality (theoretical functionality, until I get it working anyway). Too bad stepping away from the mainstream in just about any way in life costs more. Not in all ways, certainly, but in most.

 

[patrol578]

Looking at the electrical schematic, the oil pressure switch shown has two outputs, one is a NO switch that goes to ground and is routed to the warning buzzer in the cab that many folks disconnect. It is an outright alarm that the oil pressure is too low and most likely the contacts close under a certain pressure. The other output is a variable resistor that goes to ground. This feeds the oil pressure gauge. If someone had a spare good transmitter they could range the variable resistor and expect they could buy an off the shelf oil pressure sending unit with the same range. Odds are its a Bosch part with Mercedes logo and its highly likely its a standard range . I expect the connection could be teed with space for a pressure switch if someone wants to keep the low oil pressure warning. Unfortunately the diagram doesn't show the diagnostic system wiring so not sure how its gets its signal.

(I used to work in work in an over 100 year old pulp and papermill keeping very old machinery running with little or no documentation. There wasn't the option to call the manufacturer for new parts as they may have been out of business for 50 years so I was forced to think my way out of stuff like this. Of course over the years some folks would just cut the leads and then at some later date someone else needed to deal with the wreck when the oil pressure did get too low. Most of the place is a filled in hole in the ground )

The one I found is a Bilstein part. There isn't much of a description, but it does say "Oil pressure sensors with warning contact."

 

[Another Ahab]

I hear ya Ahab. I bought mine for the functionality (theoretical functionality, until I get it working anyway). Too bad stepping away from the mainstream in just about any way in life costs more. Not in all ways, certainly, but in most.

Don't get me wrong, I like the German engineering, too. But I'm too cheap to run with the big dogs and drive the latest-and-greatest machine.
I run a BMW, but it's got a few whiskers; it's a 2000 model sedan, 17 years old.

 

[peakbagger]

The one I found is a Bilstein part. There isn't much of a description, but it does say "Oil pressure sensors with warning contact."

Sure sounds right.

This engine is used in all sort of products in Europe. Just like NAPA sells functional equivalents to OEM parts there are enough of these engines in Europe to justify selling non OEM replacements. Hard to justify keeping inventory in the US to serve a "gray market" The Euro used to be an issue but right now its darn close to par so everything is "on sale" to those who care to send US dollars over there (at least currently).

Westfields 4x4 has a store on Ebay, plus there is Atkinson VOS in England and I run into several other firms in Germany who will sell parts to the US. The shipping is steep but compared to Mercedes markups there is cost savings.

 

[The FLU farm]

According to always knowledgeable choprboy, the correct part number is 360-081-034-002C. They're on eBay for $88 plus $6 shipping, but as peakbagger points out above, a little shopping abroad could likely result in better prices yet. If nothing else, anything in UK has 20% VAT added, which doesn't have to be paid for export.

 

[73m819]

Guys thank you for the leads but I now have a NON OE mechanical oil pressure gauge to be installed tomorrow, I am DONE with this European parts crap used on a US MILITARY VEHICLE if I can help it, I thought I had the turn signal issue fixed using a dp/dt/co switch, I now have 4 corner turn signals BUT the POS now clicks ALL THE TIME, even when the signals are OFF, why should I think that I could get away with this when NOTHING else is normal on this POS, no wonder our MILITARY had to have it, to me the SEE is so bad I can feel it ramping my PTSD.

 

[The FLU farm]

Strangely enough, when I have screwed up repairs and/or fixes, for some reason I thought it was my fault that I screwed up, not the vehicle's.

 

[patrol578]

At the heart of it all, it's a German tractor. All the extra stuff DOD slapped on it made it a chimera, and doubled the complexity of an already complicated machine. It is what it is.

 

[General Hood]

At the heart of it all, it's a German tractor. All the extra stuff DOD slapped on it made it a chimera, and doubled the complexity of an already complicated machine. It is what it is.

My mother said I was a gluten for punishment, so to prove her point, I own 2 of these "German tractors" and always on the prowl for what Jimmy calls " a parts SEE"

 

[jstark45xd]

Someone helpful posted that here already (or in another thread). Apparently that's the MB business model, pushing their product in the U.S. as luxury and tacking on the price points accordingly. The human nature to want to be seen as a part of the "exclusive class" does all the rest; folks pay exorbitantly to belong to the exclusive club.So they can say "I'm special". MB is just making hay out of that, and playing it for all its worth (don't buy the car, buy the stock).

Speaking of..... When are our dues for this forum due? Too much info to be freeeeeee!!!!

 

[The FLU farm]

Speaking of..... When are our dues for this forum due? Too much info to be freeeeeee!!!!

I'll PM you my PayPal info, if you insist.

 

[BigBison]

But for those who may be curious, there are a couple of manuals out there for your reading pleasure. I was going to post them, but someone has already beat me to it: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?132329-Ste-ice-tm9-4910-571-12-amp-p.

Thanks! I find that manual to be compelling reading. I'm even more motivated to do something with the on-board diagnostics, now. The most intriguing aspect of the system, is the ability to dyno-test the motor without a dyno.

 

[BigBison]

I understand. I will see what I can do. Sounds scary though. Is it not possible to drive into a better position? The tire is already flat? Maybe a pic of it would help me better understand.

The tire had a big, radial split in the sidewall -- not that you can tell by looking at it off the truck, but it was obvious when it was squished down. It was hard enough maintaining control of the truck at 15mph with a flat steer wheel, and get it parked instead of ditched (for a 2nd time that day). I didn't want to move it, and feared if I tried to, I'd roll the tire off the rim and leave myself worse off. Sorry, no pics.

 

[patracy]

You guys definitely have some issues that I'm sure none of us want to be part of. That being said, I was one of the people waiting as I am going to be moving close to a 100 tons of dirt this season. Was hoping to get this done and test it a bit before I get into it. Thank you for anything you can provide on this.

Both parties need to deal with their issues through the legal system, not the forum.

 

[BigBison]

Spare wall chart goes to jstark45xd, I'll get that sent out to you next week.

 

[patrol578]

BigBison did you NOT read the above: "Both parties need to deal with their issues through the legal system, not the forum."???

Patracy is one of the site admins. I wouldn't be surprised if you got banned for a while after he JUST asked you to knock it off. If you must keep replying to Couchoffroad's juvenile post please do so by PM. Having read this entire thread end-to-end over a couple of days, I am pretty sick of your saga, and I'm also pretty sure I am not the only one.

You were both in the wrong. Move on.

You have made some good contributions around here, but don't be surprised if users start ignoring you because they are sick of the diatribe. I, for one, don't need any more negative **** in my life.

 

[BigBison]

I edited my last post, because I didn't see patracy's until *after* I posted. Sorry for the disruption.

 

[BigBison]

The final touch on my service body will be a series/parallel switch between the under-hood batteries and the service-body battery. That's a $975 relay plus a $125 solenoid controller:

http://www.gonefcon.com/trucktcom/parallel_sw.htm
http://texasindustrialelectric.com/T_114_12_series_parallel_switch.asp

I have a NATO receptacle and slave cable coming. The receptacle goes on the service body. I'll be able to deliver around 1,500CCA @24V to jump-start my "future parts SEE" even if its batteries are dead or missing, by just driving up to it, hooking up the cable, and flipping a switch. 24V trucks & tractors are common around here (I already mentioned my neighbor coulda used a 24V jump-start earlier this winter when his tractor's block heater failed), although the newer they are the more likely they're hybrid 12V rigs with 24V starters. What I couldn't find were any junkers I could strip the series/parallel switch from. I'll need a small $15 relay to keep the solenoid from engaging unless there's an "engine run" signal.

Those timers I bought will be returned for refund next week. Oh, they work fine, just not "as advertised." Instead of a range of 1 sec to 100 hrs, they're really 1/10th sec to 10 hrs. The mfr. solution is if you need more than a 10-hr interval, you can pay to ship them back to the supplier for a refund. At least I got all the wiring mocked up, enough to realize how two of these timers won't stay in synch regardless of interval. So I've ordered two "13801" timers:

http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Hager-analog-module-sell-sheet.pdf

(wish they had a colder operating-temp rating, we'll have to see how it goes)

One for the Dodge, one for the SEE. The one on the Dodge will run off 12V, but I'll wire the one on the SEE for 24V so it doesn't just drain the first battery. From there, on the SEE, the current passes through one of those thermostats I have here (they work great), controlling a solenoid:

https://www.stego.de/en/products/regulating/regulators/nc-heating-or-no-cooling-standard/
https://www.stego.de/en/products/regulating/regulators/relay-24vdc-and-48vdc/

The output from that solenoid will pass through a variable on-delay relay, so I can set the hydronic heater to fire up long after the AC heat elements without worrying about keeping two timers synched:

https://www.ntepartsdirect.com/ENG/PRODUCT/R60-11AD10-12

The current will also go to a solid-state relay to switch on the AC current:

https://www.ntepartsdirect.com/ENG/PRODUCT/RS3-1D10-51

I'll be sure to take some pics of the installation as it progresses. Aside from the wrong timer and relay, the mockup's already done, with the added complexity of the step-up converter & more-complicated AC wiring for the Dodge. I hope these timers work out, it'd put an analog clock in the service body, plus one in the cab of the (clockless) SEE, between the seatbacks. The thermostat's set-and-forget, but it should be easy to access & re-program the timer, or hit its override switch if it won't be used for a few days or whatnot.

The upside to the defective timers, is a more simplified setup that's intuitive to operate.

 

[General Hood]

Don't get me wrong, I like the German engineering, too. But I'm too cheap to run with the big dogs and drive the latest-and-greatest machine.
I run a BMW, but it's got a few whiskers; it's a 2000 model sedan, 17 years old.

 

[BigBison]

I'm going to have to change my timer order first thing Monday...

http://www.intermatic.com/-/media/inriver/7085-8529.ashx/MIL72-Specifications-EN

Now we're talkin', rated for -40*. I'm looking at the QWuZH-24, even though I can do without the non-optional battery, because only the Quartz models can operate off 12V. But I'll take it for the temp rating and keep looking for an on-delay timer; the one on my pending order (linked above) was my mistake on wrong time range (also not cold-rated enough), but I've barely placed those orders so I reserve the right to change my mind over the weekend!

If you want a timer for the block heater you put on your FLU and don't care about the thermostat or hydronic unit, go with the synchronous 24V timer w/o battery (i.e. the cheapest one in that line of timers). Wire it to 24V + through a 1A glass fuse, run the 120V + heater wire through it and you're done. These timers handle more AC amps than any others I've looked at, so no need for a supplemental contactor. I don't have a price quote yet, maybe around $75. You also get a cab clock. The simpler option is to put a plug-in timer on your AC outlet, but that's more susceptible to inclement weather & power failures common around here when it's cold enough to need a block heater -- if the power comes back on in time to heat the block, your block heater may not, unless you find a timer with a battery. It'll eventually pay for itself by only running those heaters for a few hours instead of all night (750W heater on the Dodge is like leaving all your lights on overnight if you plug it in at bedtime).

The more complicated system I'm going with, gives me most of the functionality of Webasto's optional $1,000 controller for the hydronic unit (vs. the standard on/off SPST switch), plus controls my other heaters, and won't get taken out by a nearby lightning strike or temperatures cold enough to make computer controllers malfunction. All analog so far, except the CMOS in the solid-state relay I'm not worried about, prolly one of those in the timer's relay, too. Two dials, one knob & a bypass switch for around $300 because I don't care about needing multiple apps to accomplish the same objective from my nonexistent smartphone.