FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[The FLU farm]

I know one of the most common complaints with the front bucket loader is that it can't be tilted and that the front suspension squats when you dig the bucket in. Has anyone here put hydraulic cylinders in the front suspension? That would allow you to tilt the Mog and could also lock the front suspension in place when digging. With a hydraulic actuator with a center lock position it could hold the tilt that you put it at and a bypass position for normal operation. I was thinking that a 12" travel cylinder with a 2" bore and a 1 1/4" rod would do the trick. They could probably even be installed in place of the front shocks, but with a cylinder that big the shock towers would probably need to be reinforced. I would prefer mechanical actuators, but finding a good mounting location might be a little problematic.

When/if time allows I'll install hydraulic cylinders with shut-off valves in the rear of the SEE. I'll never be good enough to use the loader on the SEE for any kind of precision work, so I won't even try.
In the rear I want the lockout to make it easier to cross ditches, but mostly to stabilize and lower the rear end.

And as LZahariev points out, the geometry of the SEE doesn't lend itself to precise work with the loader. Converting to a single joy-stick would probably help me much more than a front suspension lockout since I'm more used to such a setup.

Then again, I'll be moving a fair amount of dirt soon. Just for kicks, maybe I should use the SEE and find out if practice can make perfect. The resulting scars in the ground can always be fixed with the tractor and a blade as the work will be well below the current grade and the grass will be history anyway.

 

[General Hood]

Sold my SEE I kept up at our mountain place this weekend. Kinda sad to see it go but it has a good home with the VFD up on the mountain. I wish I had a video of those guys with the VFD trying to operate it for their first time. It was a real treat

 

[The FLU farm]

Sold my SEE I kept up at our mountain place this weekend.

Bummer.

 

[Hank69]

Having a front suspension lockout would help some but not as much as you think. The problem will still be present because the front loader is so far forward from the front axle and the rear axle is so close to the front axle. The front loader creates a lot of leverage on the truck itself that it would be hard to keep it stable, especially with the rear suspension travel. It will always want to tilt forward unless it was on tracks and a longer wheelbase... You just have to adapt to the tilt.... Just my thoughts...

I am not talking about just a lockout, but actually using hydraulics to tilt the vehicle to the left or right so that the bucket loader can be used for leveling.

 

[The FLU farm]

I am not talking about just a lockout, but actually using hydraulics to tilt the vehicle to the left or right so that the bucket loader can be used for leveling.

For rear use, I was thinking that swinging the backhoe would compress the suspension on one side, then close the valve, and repeat for the opposite side.
That would obviously be time consuming for front use, so I would likely use air bags instead. Individually operated, of course.

 

[Hank69]

For rear use, I was thinking that swinging the backhoe would compress the suspension on one side, then close the valve, and repeat for the opposite side.
That would obviously be time consuming for front use, so I would likely use air bags instead. Individually operated, of course.

I don't need it if I am using the backhoe, the stabilizers work great for leveling the back.

 

[The FLU farm]

I don't need it if I am using the backhoe, the stabilizers work great for leveling the back.

Yes, I'm aware that you are interested in the front while I'm primarily interested in locking out the rear suspension. But I still think that for front use it would be easier to use air suspension than a hydraulic setup.
It would be for the rear, too, except that as mentioned earlier, the weight of the backhoe can be used to compress the suspension as desired. In turn, that makes a simple hydraulic version more feasible. While using chains to keep it compressed would also work, turning a valve would be much quicker.

Either way, I can't use the stabilizers to keep the SEE more level while moving it. Once the SEE is positioned where it needs to be for the work on hand, yes, then the stabilizers can be put to use. But first I have to get it into that position without laying it on its side.

 

[General Hood]

Jimmy
I was thinking more along these lines for front stabilizing

 

[The FLU farm]

Now you're talking. Easy to acquire and install, but high maintenance.

And the more I think about it, if wanting to lean a SEE for loader use (or whatever reason), or just to basically eliminate the suspension for loader use, air bags front and rear would be my first choice.

I started my quest for getting control over the rear axle with thinking about air suspension. Then air bags to push the stock suspension down onto the stops.
But at this point I think that locking the rear is easiest to achieve by using hydraulic cylinders, reservoirs, and valves. If for no other reason because normal air suspension wouldn't keep the suspension in the compressed position when lifting the rear end up with the backhoe.
Air bags used to compress the suspension is still appealing to me since they could be manipulated while driving, making the SEE lean a bit as needed. Never did look into where the necessary linkages could be attached, though.

 

[rtrask]

Now you're talking. Easy to acquire and install, but high maintenance.

You must be more of a stud than me, because I have never found them easy to aquire.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[rtrask]

Does any one have a good weight on the spare tire? When my FLU419 was picked up, it didn't have the spare on it that was there when I bought it. GP is making good on it, but I need an approximate weight for the shipper. Eddie is guessing 120-150 lbs, but pure guess. Seems low to me but I don't know.

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[The FLU farm]

You must be more of a stud than me, because I have never found them easy to aquire.

Well, I've had the same girlfriend for a long time now, so I'm out of practice. But it's probably like riding a bicycle, right?

 

[Another Ahab]

Well, I've had the same girlfriend for a long time now, so I'm out of practice. But it's probably like riding a bicycle, right?

 

[The FLU farm]

Does any one have a good weight on the spare tire? When my FLU419 was picked up, it didn't have the spare on it that was there when I bought it. GP is making good on it, but I need an approximate weight for the shipper. Eddie is guessing 120-150 lbs, but pure guess. Seems low to me but I don't know.

I think it's 170. It's been mentioned somewhere here on this thread. Early on, as I recall, in discussions about making small cranes to lift it up into place.

 

[alpine44]

When/if time allows I'll install hydraulic cylinders with shut-off valves in the rear of the SEE. I'll never be good enough to use the loader on the SEE for any kind of precision work, so I won't even try.
In the rear I want the lockout to make it easier to cross ditches, but mostly to stabilize and lower the rear end.

And as LZahariev points out, the geometry of the SEE doesn't lend itself to precise work with the loader. Converting to a single joy-stick would probably help me much more than a front suspension lockout since I'm more used to such a setup.

Then again, I'll be moving a fair amount of dirt soon. Just for kicks, maybe I should use the SEE and find out if practice can make perfect. The resulting scars in the ground can always be fixed with the tractor and a blade as the work will be well below the current grade and the grass will be history anyway.

A couple of weeks ago I finally "dug" the main valve out of my Case 1840 skidloader and fixed the float detent for the loader arm. The hours, curses, and skinned knuckles were well worth it. With the loader in the float position and adjusting only the pitch of the bucket, scooping a thin layer of material is much easier. I also backdrag on my way out of the "cut".
I do not know yet how this technique will work on a FLU419 but it would be worth trying. It will put more wear on the rear bottom of the bucket but that can be hardplated if necessary.

 

[The FLU farm]

. With the loader in the float position and adjusting only the pitch of the bucket, scooping a thin layer of material is much easier. I also backdrag on my way out of the "cut".
I do not know yet how this technique will work on a FLU419 but it would be worth trying. It will put more wear on the rear bottom of the bucket but that can be hardplated if necessary.

That's a good idea, alpine. I'll try that with the SEE one of these days. Despite using the free float quite a lot with the tractor for back dragging (especially in the last stages of smoothing things out) I've never tried it with the SEE going forwards.
And since rock is scarce around here, wearing the bucket out is a non-issue.

 

[Migginsbros]

Does any one have a good weight on the spare tire? When my FLU419 was picked up, it didn't have the spare on it that was there when I bought it. GP is making good on it, but I need an approximate weight for the shipper. Eddie is guessing 120-150 lbs, but pure guess. Seems low to me but I don't know.

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This is from the TM

WARNING
Wheel assembly weighs 170 lb (77.18 kg). Use a hoisting device or at least
two personnel to lift wheel assembly to prevent personal injury.

 

[BigBison]

Now you're talking. Easy to acquire and install, but high maintenance.

lol, aren't they all

 

[BigBison]

I'm hundreds of posts behind, here, and in the middle of moving... but I did notice something interesting about my FLUs the other day.

I have a 24V NATO jumper cable. When it's plugged into a FLU, power bypasses the master cutoff switch (!). Confirmed via wiring diagram. Master switch off, dash switch on, dash lights etc. will work if power's plugged into the NATO receptacle on both my FLUs. This won't happen with jumper cables on the batteries. I can't imagine why this is a good thing, kinda losing sleep at night since, any thoughts appreciated on why that's the case!

I'm looking at my options for extending my 9' NATO jumper cable to 24'. If you have a dead FLU on the side of the road and don't want to block traffic, parking a SEE close behind another FLU is a 22' distance between NATO receptacles, the extra 2' is to have some slack. Otherwise, they need to be side-by-side pointing opposite directions, to get my pitiful 9' cable connected.

Most of the cost in a 24V NATO jumper cable is the connectors, not the cable, so get one long enough for roadside use is my advice. Heavy beast, so maybe two equal lengths and a F-F adapter? Not sure anyone makes those, though...

Final note for today: I love my HMMH forklift. Adjustable-width forks, load tilt, tons of lifting capacity? I've done jobs for myself and my neighbors, that a skidsteer forklift (zoom-boom) can't dream about! I thought I had a crane job for my HMMH the other day, got 'er done quicker & easier with the forklift (I loaded a tow-behind cement mixer with a seized bearing, onto a flatbed trailer).

I'm piling up more reasons for that front-suspension lockout, I woulda dropped a 10-yard dumpster the other day without it (because I almost did, before remembering to engage that system). Picking up a cement mixer or dumpster will compress the front springs, but the lockout keeps them from uncompressing over small bumps at crawling speeds and upsetting an awkward load.

 

[BigBison]

Ideally, each of my FLUs would have a 12' NATO slave cable and a M-M adapter on board. Given my battery issues, I often find myself jump-starting one or the other FLU -- using the NATO cable is such a timesaver! I wouldn't say "well" worth the cost so much as "somewhat" worth the cost, kinda depends on how one values his or her time, dollar-wise.

I'm going outside now, to test a hunch on why the wiring is how it is vis-a-vis the NATO receptacles...