FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[rtrask]

The driver side door on my SEE at some point had a frozen hinge. It was "fixed" by cutting the hinges and leaving stubs. The only problem is that the door will not stay on. So I have been working on driving out the hinge pins to replace them. **** are they in there tight. I have bent punches and broken hardened chisles. I have tried heat, PB Blaster, and I am currently trying to drill them out, but no love. Eventually I think I can drill out enough of the two that were on the door but, and I got one of the two on the frame out.

So now I am wondering if I am heading down the wrong path.

Has anyone had this problem with a door and what did you do.

I have gone past the point of no return. So I will either need to make the existing system work, or weld something else in its place, but I am dubious about the prospects of making that work.

Ridicule is acceptable if it comes with a workable solution.



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[mberetta]

I had similar thoughts when I first got my see. I thought somebody had cut the pins cuz there were just little nubs sticking out of the hinge and the door wouldn't stay on. I think there may have been different types of hinges on different years. I could be wrong about that. I say that because the hinges they have for sale on Expedition imports are not the same as the hinges on my see. I can't see your pictures on my phone but I'm guessing you may have/had the same kind of hinge I do and the problem I had was the door got out of alignment so I could get one hinge to seat properly but not the other. The hinges seemed to be designed so that the doors could be quickly removed very easily by simply lifting up while the door was open. If you have the same hinges that I do, you are struggling to remove pins that are not removable. Or, I am completely wrong. Hopefully one of the experts will chime in.

 

[alpine44]

The driver side door on my SEE at some point had a frozen hinge. It was "fixed" by cutting the hinges and leaving stubs. The only problem is that the door will not stay on. So I have been working on driving out the hinge pins to replace them. **** are they in there tight. I have bent punches and broken hardened chisles. I have tried heat, PB Blaster, and I am currently trying to drill them out, but no love. Eventually I think I can drill out enough of the two that were on the door but, and I got one of the two on the frame out.

So now I am wondering if I am heading down the wrong path.

Has anyone had this problem with a door and what did you do.

I have gone past the point of no return. So I will either need to make the existing system work, or weld something else in its place, but I am dubious about the prospects of making that work.

Ridicule is acceptable if it comes with a workable solution.

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I used a cutoff wheel to slit the hinge bracket vertically, drove the pin stub out, and then tack welded the slit.

 

[rtrask]

What did you replace the pins with? I was thinking a bolt of the proper diameter might work

 

[CimmonsGuy]

Chris Harrison
Flu419
Year 1989
Henniker NH
603 344 0619

 

[rtrask]

Welcome to the club CimmonsGuy.
Where did you get your SEE, post some pictures when you can. This forum is a gold mine of information on the SEE. (I assume you meant FLU419, not FLU491)

 

[Migginsbros]

Welcome from oversees, CimmonsGuy.

 

[CimmonsGuy]

I fixed my original post and added my name. Thanks for the warm welcome here and abroad... I got some pix to add but I'm not sure how to from my phone. It came to me in 3 pieces backhoe and loader unttached. I feel like that's not a bad thing where as I'd like to get the truck up to snuff first, keep a me from just skipping the important stuff and going strait for the fun. So far 4x4 actuator is stuck and temp and oil gauge dont work. Foot throttle sticks with hand throttle. Clutch safety switches doesn't work. Ect ect ect. CHAINSAW WORKSWOOT WOOT.....Unfortunately it was forded into some pretty silty water so thereS that. Pretty sure I'll be chasing issues resulting from that for a long time. TO BE CONTINUED....

 

[The FLU farm]

Chris, it sounds like you'll have to work on your SEE for a couple of days before worrying about washing and waxing it.
Welcome, and enjoy!

 

[Nick02]

I am a new SEE owner, yay!
Name is Nick.
State is AZ, Mesa
But I got the rear hydraulics stuck and the truck will not fold up now, boo!
Never messed with hydraulic systems outside of power steering so this is an entirely new world for me and I feel I am a bit scared.

The mog had two previous owners after military, a tow yard in VA and then the previous owner had it shipped to Arizona and used it on his parcel.
Sadly, he passed away and I picked it up from the family after it sat for a year.
It barely ran and needed jumped, I had to pressurize the fuel tank and could get a couple minutes of run time out of it, I replaced the fuel shutoff and pre filter with a Theremoking 24V reefer pump, and now it runs perfect. I changed all the filters for t the fuel system too.

Front hydraulics work perfectly and I tested the rear yesterday, all cylinders (Swing, latches, stabilizers, bucket, latches and main tilt) work except the boom cylinder will not retract fully and feels sluggish on retract, so I cannot fold the rear up now. It is almost able to latch, but is still 8 inches away. There are two cylinders for this function so I am not sure if one has a bad piston seal or both.
I removed the strainer and noticed that fluid level the 22-23 gallon tank for the rear is 5-6 inches lower then the bottom hole for the sight glass; this is after I deployed the rear and the truck is off, so I think it is a few gallons low.

I went to add in some fluid and screwed up, I dropped the plastic cap from my bottle inside the tank since I removed the strainer (brilliant!) and I am scared to turn the truck on to see if the low fluid level was the issue, just curious if there is there a filter for the intake inside the tank? I found out that it looks like it has two (items 20 and 14 in the attached photo) but I am not sure. Otherwise I will drain and refill. The truck is just stuck in a precarious position and I need to move it today, haha.

 

[rtrask]

Chris, it sounds like you'll have to work on your SEE for a couple of days before worrying about washing and waxing it.
Welcome, and enjoy!

You will probably at least want to hold off on the waxing, but a power wash may be in your future to deal with the mud. The wash at this time of year in New Hampshire does not sound fun.

You can post pictures from your phone pretty easily, at least from the tapatalk app that I use. There is a box to add photos / files. After you select the picture or take one it will upload it. Touch the uploaded picture and select inline. Here is the view out my front window this morning. [Edit -- For some reason after selecting in line, it is still posting a link rather than the actual picture. It is easy to fix this, but annoying. To fix it just edit the post and click on the insert image and give it the URL from the post. There must be a better way]


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[Speedwoble]

Slow down soldier. No problem, that is typical behavior. It is an over center latch which requires a reverse motion as the boom hits its peak. Look for youtube videos on 580D boom latch.

 

[Migginsbros]

That´s the same what we think this moment.

 

[rtrask]

Hi Nick and welcome to the group.

I am a new SEE owner, yay!
Name is Nick.
State is AZ, Mesa
-- except the boom cylinder will not retract fully and feels sluggish on retract, so I cannot fold the rear up now. It is almost able to latch, but is still 8 inches away.

As Speedwoble said that is standard operating procedure. If you look at the operators TM you will find the correct procedure to get the boom to latch. raise the boom to the top and immediately switch directions. I had the same problem, and it is counter intuitive, but works. look for the videos.

I went to add in some fluid and screwed up, I dropped the plastic cap from my bottle inside the tank since I removed the strainer (brilliant!) and I am scared to turn the truck on to see if the low fluid level was the issue, just curious if there is there a filter for the intake inside the tank? I found out that it looks like it has two (items 20 and 14 in the attached photo) but I am not sure. Otherwise I will drain and refill. The truck is just stuck in a precarious position and I need to move it today, haha.

The cap can probably stay where it is until you get it home, But I would not leave it there long term.just get it to latch and fold it up and get it home. Then you will probably need to drain the tank and take the filter out.

 

[CimmonsGuy]

Can somebody please some up what the deal is with grease for these things? As in what is GAA and what is it comparable to? I tried myself to figure it out and all I found was a huge debate with no definitive answer... I really love this thing and just wana do the rite thing for it. Lets not start the debate all over again. Thanks in advance guys.... Im learning real fast to keep this thing on solid ground. Recovery yesterday with the M936 in the back yard. my SXS went through there only 5 minutes before just fine.

 

[Pinsandpitons]

It’s a heavy truck, with crappy tires, high contact pressure. GAA is just grease. I doubt it truly matters. The impliment pins don’t really care i can gaurantee. The thrust bearings in the tourque tubes may have a preference, but I honestly doubt it. I use marine 4x4 grease ‘cause it wont emulsify with water as easily, has a respectable tackyness and is available. The blue green color makes is easy to see how much is in the joint so one doesn’t over lube.

 

[SpoiledSpud]

I finally received my FLU yesterday, delivered to Northern Wisconsin. Overall appears to be in good shape. In preparation I did read through this entire thread twice. Thanks to all of you that contributed to the wealth of information in here. I’ll post a couple pics soon.
Spud

 

[SpoiledSpud]

 

[rtrask]

I finally received my FLU yesterday, delivered to Northern Wisconsin. Overall appears to be in good shape. In preparation I did read through this entire thread twice. Thanks to all of you that contributed to the wealth of information in here. I’ll post a couple pics soon.
Spud

Welcome to the forum from Colorado. My wife is from the UP so I traverse upper Wisconsin regularly. I even love pasties.

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[SpoiledSpud]

I have an issue that I don’t recall seeing yet on the forum. The ring gear on the flywheel is damaged and will need to be replaced along with the starter. I’d like to understand the cause of the issue so hopefully many of the FLU experts are still monitoring this thread. If anyone is willing to part with an extra starter they have please PM me. Also, recommendations for sourcing the ring gear would be appreciated.
Thanks, Spud