- 3,342
- 1,329
- 113
- Location
- The actual midwest, NM.
While I have no picture of the rut I created in General Hood's formerly perfect lawn, this photo of the trailer's tire tells the sad story.![DSCN2642[1].jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/524/524421-8fa2cb8c2991363b36fa5df4a7e4892c.jpg "DSCN2642[1].jpg")
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group
- Thread starter Migginsbros
- Start date
Another Ahab
Well-known member
- 17,999
- 4,556
- 113
- Location
- Alexandria, VA
Ouch!
Well. He'll sure remember you from now on, won't he?!
Oh, gosh.
Looking for a silver lining, now that the digging is done, maybe General Hood could make that area into a little pond feature.
- You know, lemonades from lemons
- Before you ship him that dirt, maybe you should check with him
Last edited:
- 3,342
- 1,329
- 113
- Location
- The actual midwest, NM.
Yeah, it could work well for eels, I suppose.
Another Ahab
Well-known member
- 17,999
- 4,556
- 113
- Location
- Alexandria, VA
Maybe for Christmas, send him an all-in-one kit from out here in the neighborhood:https://www.lilypons.com/
Then assure him that next time you visit you'll take an Über!!
Then assure him that next time you visit you'll take an Über!!
- 3,342
- 1,329
- 113
- Location
- The actual midwest, NM.
While he graciously offered me to stay in his house (I opted to sleep in my new trailer instead), I suspect that a 1,700-mile Uber ride could be costly.
Another Ahab
Well-known member
- 17,999
- 4,556
- 113
- Location
- Alexandria, VA
Isn't ride-sharing a feature?
Of course it might take you 3 years to complete the trip...
You could catch up on your reading!
- 3,342
- 1,329
- 113
- Location
- The actual midwest, NM.
Well, I'm not much for ride sharing. And it took me almost 12 hours to get there, 1,700 miles being a round trip.
But fuel is cheap in that neck of the woods, so it was well worth it.
But fuel is cheap in that neck of the woods, so it was well worth it.
Another Ahab
Well-known member
- 17,999
- 4,556
- 113
- Location
- Alexandria, VA
Sorry about the mishap, General Hood, sounds like it was painful for everybody.
The gods get their laughs at the expense of all of us down here...
Too bad it didn't dig up a rare dinosaur bone, or a vein of gold or something.
The gods get their laughs at the expense of all of us down here...
Too bad it didn't dig up a rare dinosaur bone, or a vein of gold or something.
- 3,342
- 1,329
- 113
- Location
- The actual midwest, NM.
You may be onto something there, which would explain why General Hood keeps insisting that it's no big deal.
Another Ahab
Well-known member
- 17,999
- 4,556
- 113
- Location
- Alexandria, VA
Is he driving a shiny new car?!!
- 3,342
- 1,329
- 113
- Location
- The actual midwest, NM.
He was driving one when I got there, and may have upgraded even more since I left.
And not surprisingly, his SEE was well waxed and shiny.
Another Ahab
Well-known member
- 17,999
- 4,556
- 113
- Location
- Alexandria, VA
He might have planned it. That General Hood he is sharp:
- "Sure. Sure. Park right there out front!"
Saved the expense for all that digging. Brilliant!!
- "Sure. Sure. Park right there out front!"
Saved the expense for all that digging. Brilliant!!
- 3,342
- 1,329
- 113
- Location
- The actual midwest, NM.
In all fairness, he suggested that I'd park in front of the house, on the gravel.
Which I should've, except I would've blocked everything.
Which I should've, except I would've blocked everything.
MSMOG
Member
- 84
- 1
- 8
- Location
- Jackson, Mississippi
Been a while since I posted here. Glad to see the crew is still kicking. Just got my first HMMH delivered last night. Way cooler than I even imagined! Going to give it a tune up and start fixing stuff. Sheared pin on a crane cylinder, seat back cover eaten by mice, speedometer not working, oil pan gasket leaking, bent fork, and one of hydraulic gauges not showing fluid (even though tank is full). All in all, a very solid machine. Some minor rust issues in odd places, but nothing I can do about that. I find it a little odd that it shows about 800 miles but only 35 hours (yes, the 5 is the red number). The engine is black. I noticed a black engine on one of my other trucks. This HMMH has a 2011 rebuild. I've often wondered if the odometers got replaced or reset during a rebuild. And I have wondered if a black engine indicates an engine replacement at the time of rebuild. Anybody know? I recently talked to the local Caterpillar folks. They actually do some rebuilds for the military on some of the Oshkosh trucks. Guy told me they never reset the odometers.
- 3,342
- 1,329
- 113
- Location
- The actual midwest, NM.
Good to see you resurface! I think you'll wonder how you ever got along without a crane. I sure did.
Another Ahab
Well-known member
- 17,999
- 4,556
- 113
- Location
- Alexandria, VA
The idea (or something like it) makes some sense.
Might be why it's not so:
- Makes too much sense.
Last edited:
rtrask
Well-known member
- 342
- 251
- 63
- Location
- San Luis Valley, Colorado
Does anyone know where to find the ambient temperature sensor / or have a better theory on why the starter relay is not energizing the ignition switch? (no it is not related to the clutch switch)
I have been working my way through the wiring issues. Fortunately I have not found any rodent damage to the wiring harness, but time and the elements have set me some challenges still. I replaced the big 8 position connector under the fuse box 2 that was crumbling to touch, and had a spot weld where it had arc welded to the blade in the connector. I have soaked the rest of the connectors in a vinegar/salt bath followed by a scrub with a brass brush and a soak in a baking soda bath. I then replaced all of the fuses, and the 5 relays. After all that the lights all seem to work properly, but as before when I turn the switch to the on position all the gauges except engine temperature peg out at the max values. and there is no voltage on the single wire that runs from the starter relay to the starter button. I have tested the wire from the relay to the switch and it seems fine. The clutch switch is energizing the relay under the cab on the right side, which I assume is where the transmission verifies that it is not in gear.
I am not sure where to go from here.
I have been working my way through the wiring issues. Fortunately I have not found any rodent damage to the wiring harness, but time and the elements have set me some challenges still. I replaced the big 8 position connector under the fuse box 2 that was crumbling to touch, and had a spot weld where it had arc welded to the blade in the connector. I have soaked the rest of the connectors in a vinegar/salt bath followed by a scrub with a brass brush and a soak in a baking soda bath. I then replaced all of the fuses, and the 5 relays. After all that the lights all seem to work properly, but as before when I turn the switch to the on position all the gauges except engine temperature peg out at the max values. and there is no voltage on the single wire that runs from the starter relay to the starter button. I have tested the wire from the relay to the switch and it seems fine. The clutch switch is energizing the relay under the cab on the right side, which I assume is where the transmission verifies that it is not in gear.
I am not sure where to go from here.
- 3,342
- 1,329
- 113
- Location
- The actual midwest, NM.
There shouldn't be any voltage on that wire from the switch to the relay, unless you're pushing the starter switch. So my question would be if the switch has power in.
Ambient temp sensor? Not a clue. And even if I knew it wouldn't explain what it'd have to do with energizing the starter.
rtrask
Well-known member
- 342
- 251
- 63
- Location
- San Luis Valley, Colorado
That is odd if I run a hot wire to the other pair of wires it activates the starter. I will have to take a closer look at it and repeat the experiment, maybe I got my wires crossed.
Last edited:
rtrask
Well-known member
- 342
- 251
- 63
- Location
- San Luis Valley, Colorado
I finally got around to digging in and testing it a bit more, and did enough prep work so I can ask the question better and hopefully get better results.That is odd if I run a hot wire to the other pair of wires it activates the starter. I will have to take a closer look at it and repeat the experiment, maybe I got my wires crossed.
I took the 2 pages of wiring diagrams from the Student manual on the 24 VOLT STARTING SYSTEM S.E.E and color coded the wires to make it easy to follow the discussion. Please see diagram below.
The red line (211) goes to the started switch from the started non repeat relay, In the diagram, and confirmed by manually tracing the wire it is plugged in to the 87a plug on the relay, which should mean default on. The dark blue wire (215) is connected to the 30 plug on the relay and has 24 volts on it when the key is turned on, and I have the clutch starter lock out depressed. If I bypass the relay and run a wire directly from the dark blue line to the switch the starter engages.
If I remove (342) the light blue line and plug in the relay the starter engages through red line, and the volt meter confirms 24 volts on the light blue line, so I think that the relay is OK (it is brand new too). So the real question is why does light blue have 24 volts on it?
Based on what the 87 plug of the relay being connected to yellow (281) and that wire connecting to the KBI cold start switch & Ambient Temperature Sensor, was that one or both of these components was bad which is why I wanted to know where the ambient temperature sensor is. After thinking about it further, that was probably a red herring. There are problems in the cold start system, the KBI switch seems suspect, and solenoid at the ether injector is frozen. Also why will it not start with the cold start switch?
I must have the light blue and possibly the purple line wired incorrectly, or perhaps there is an issue with the reverse polarity switch, ... IDK any suggestions are welcome.