FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[Speedwoble]

I did find a way to search this specific thread. See attached.

The search for splitter in the parent unimog thread is https://www.steelsoldiers.com/searc...t=post&c[child_nodes]=1&c[nodes][0]=34&o=date for anyone else who is looking.

I will perform another search using the manual's terms, "intermediate speed control".

I read all the ones about the intermediate speed control air shift splitter, most of them are people posting w/o a path they took to diagnose it.

Iit sounds like it could be stuck in between gears. I was distracted and at a total stand still shifted the air splitter without clutch engaged, I think I was in neutral at that time. But I moved it after that w/o any issues so I'm not sure that did anything. I think when I tried to move it unsuccessfully after that I had moved the splitter and at that point I think it got stuck.

I let the air pressure build to over 90. I moved the air splitter up and down a few times, no luck.

I'm not 100% certain, but I recall hearing more of a noticeable shifting sound on the air shifter when I moved it in times past when driving. Now it seems to just make a little air sound and I don't hear that "ok, I've shifted now" sound.

Things I've gleaned that could be wrong:

1. clutch (I don't think so, it worked fine when I parked it) but will diagnose with the rear PTO test. I read if the rear PTO works your clutch works.

2. Some people wrote they have air shifter issues like this that come and go. No solution was provided where this is mentioned.

3. Stuck "overflow" valve could apparently cause this. The primary (I guess brake) air system has to have enough pressure before it will overflow the pressure to the shifting system.

4. Splitter solenoid could have gone bad suddenly.

5. There could be a fuse problem depriving power at the solenoid. I did lose a fuse (presumably) the other day as all my dash gauges went out, so I will check this first.

You missed at least one cause.
6. Rust in the crossover air line contaminates the air system and plugs solenoids, filters, lines. This is a known issue and covered in the PS magazine articles.

 

[glcaines]

You missed at least one cause.
6. Rust in the crossover air line contaminates the air system and plugs solenoids, filters, lines. This is a known issue and covered in the PS magazine articles.

My crossover air line was corroded solid. I replaced it with a 10mm 316 stainless steel line. It is very easy to replace, but has some complicated bends in it. I had to purchase a Ridgid 10mm tubing bender made for SS. My unloader /regulator was also toast so I replaced it with a new one I found on Ebay.

 

[The FLU farm]

I was distracted and at a total stand still shifted the air splitter without clutch engaged, I think I was in neutral at that time. But I moved it after that w/o any issues so I'm not sure that did anything. I think when I tried to move it unsuccessfully after that I had moved the splitter and at that point I think it got stuck.

I let the air pressure build to over 90. I moved the air splitter up and down a few times, no luck.

I'm not 100% certain, but I recall hearing more of a noticeable shifting sound on the air shifter when I moved it in times past when driving. Now it seems to just make a little air sound and I don't hear that "ok, I've shifted now" sound.

I tried shifting into high on the splitter once, just to see what the difference was, so I' no expert on this.

But if I remember correctly, the clutch interlock switch must be activated or the shift won't happen. My clutch interlock switches aren't all that dependable (obvious when starting), so that could be the reason here.

 

[glcaines]

On my FLU, I have to depress the clutch to get the intermediate speed control to shift. The -10 manual states the following:

Intermediate Speed Control (2). Intermediate speeds are main transmission reduction speeds and can be
engaged and disengaged while driving either forward or reverse. Versatility of the speed control in these ranges
provides varied gear reductions on demand and, therefore, controls the speed of the vehicle. Clutch pedal must
be fully depressed to engage.

I've never had any problems with the intermediate speed control, so I'm not familiar with the way it works, only how to use it. I routinely drive mine on the highway and I shift the intermediate speed control very frequently since I'm in a mountainous region with up and down hills. I find it very useful where I drive. Mine will normally not shift if the FLU is not moving at least slowly.

 

[Pinsandpitons]

Also on searching; If you type the search term then "site:www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/flu419-see-hmmh-hme-owners-group.115476" (which is this thread url, results from the relevant pages will show up. Works pretty well just from your normal address bar. I use DuckDuckgo but the syntax is the same for g-word, bing, etc.

Example

tires site:www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/flu419-see-hmmh-hme-owners-group.115476

 

[Mullaney]

Also on searching; If you type the search term then "site:www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/flu419-see-hmmh-hme-owners-group.115476" (which is this thread url, results from the relevant pages will show up. Works pretty well just from your normal address bar. I use DuckDuckgo but the syntax is the same for g-word, bing, etc.

Example

tires site:www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/flu419-see-hmmh-hme-owners-group.115476

.
Works really well Pinsandpitons and if folks happen to NEED to search for three letter combinations like PCB (start box) will work that way - when the search engine here says "The search could not be completed because the search keywords were too short, too long, or too common."

I too discarded the g-word search engine long ago!
Amazing how much less junk email I get since that change.

 

[MajorMogger]

My SEE is running again. I jiggled all the fuses and it worked fine after that. I am not sure if that is a coincidence or not but some looked pretty funky. Ordered new fuses and headlights while I'm at it.

Appreciate all the support, it was a terrifying 24 hours.

I have another question. I have read the user manual (the 230 page one) and some of the other manuals but I cannot figure out if my SEE is supposed to have rear turn signals? My experience w/ mercedes diesels from this era is they typically use amber lights. I have high up front amber signals but rear only a red and clear light. What am I missing to get rear signals? In Texas I believe we need rear blinkers on, and a slow moving triangle, to drive this under the farm tractor laws on the road. Is the rear turn signal inside the red tail light or am I missing parts? I read some other threads about people dealing w/ this but it wasn't clear if there was missing parts or a malfunction or if the SEE never had rear signals.

 

[Migginsbros]

I would say there are Red turn signal rear. the rear lights a a common military one . For ex. it flash left and if you brake Brake light shows right and turn singnal left. Think it was the same chamber. For use on our roads we but legal lights over the original one. Rear light, brake light and turn signal(amber) seperated from each other. But this is 8 years ago.




I think I get all sources out of the original wiring. The one extra cable that goes down is only for the licens plate light.

 

[Migginsbros]

Something I remember now. I use one blackout line ( a bridge in the fuse box) to seperate turn signal from rear light. But I think that is not necesary for your state. ?

 

[MajorMogger]

I do not need a separate turn signal, I need any rear turn signal. I just wasn't sure if it is supposed to be in the red light or not, neither of them work and both the front ones work so I wasn't sure.

 

[Migginsbros]

Try this

 

[glcaines]

FLU419s definitely have rear turn signals. They flash only red.

 

[MajorMogger]

I found the light bulbs for the rear on ebay for a reasonable price and ordered some extras in case they burn out right away due to some other issue. Thanks!

 

[Migginsbros]

Think we have LED not bulbs.

 

[MajorMogger]

Uh oh...I didn't check what was in there...I just went by the part number in the manual! Do the LED's plug right into the same bulb outlet or is it a retrofitted socket? I didn't even think about upgrading to LED's but I wish I would have, putting in these archaic NOS bulbs seemed a bit off but I don't have any vehicles w/ LED's so it didnt' cross my mind.

 

[Migginsbros]

Major , I don´t have a look inside the rears for years. But I think is was a military upgrade years ago. Think all those rear lights (same housing since decades) are LEDs

 

[MajorMogger]

That makes total sense. I wonder why they are not working then, I guess it's some other problem, since my unimog only has 370 hours on it and LEDs are supposed to last like 10,000 hours. Thanks for the tip I will open them up and peek inside. LED's would be better and I guess I will have a collection of useless lightbulbs now. haha

 

[The FLU farm]

I'd be surprised if you find LEDs in there. But the basic 24 Volt bulbs should be available at NAPA, or other parts stores.
Also, I'd be surprised if the bulbs already in there aren't good. The odds that both have gone out must be pretty slim.

 

[MajorMogger]

Well, my headlights are odd too. With the top auxiliary, only one works. Regular, left works on bright but not right, and vice versa on non-bright. No rear red lights work at all. I do have fuses on order too so I am going to be replacing all those too before I do more bulb replacement. I know at least one fuse is out, it crumpled when I took it out to inspect it.

24v regular milsurp bulbs are already on order so maybe I'll get lucky and it still has the original bulbs.

 

[The FLU farm]

Like many of us, you have questionable electrical connections to deal with. I'd go through them before buying any parts.
Clean the fuse holders, check all grounds, etc.