FLU419 SEE San Antonio mechanic mentioned in thread & throttle issue

[Kommandant]

New member that spent hours searching for something I previously read (thought I bookmarked), but cant find again. There was an individual/ mechanic mentioned in a thread that worked on the SEE/ Unimogs from the San Antonio, TX area. If somone can point me in the right direction for his name/ contact info, I would greatly appreciate it as I live in the area. However, if anyone has experienced the same issue as I have, please chime in.

Just picked up a good running SEE. Rebuilt in Dec 2008 per the tag. However when motoring down the road on the test drive, doesnt have the foot throttle speed compared to the hand lever. I looked at the linkage(s) and noticed the hand throttle moves the injection pump about 1/4-1/2" more. Dunno if this is the issue...just noting it. Basically, driving down the road, seems like not enough foot pedal to get power to "avertised top speed"......meaning it wont go over 20-25mph-ish.

It was in high range & 2wd. Tried it in high range 4wd (works as it should)...same outcome...3rd & 4th gear were somewhat useless if there was a slight inlcine in the pavement. Gear splitter always in high position. Tried it in low rang & 2wd and as suspected, speed is limited in this scenario.

Additional info: cranks and starts instantly. Runs/ sounds perfect. No noises, hiccups, etc. After warm up, then putting hand lever at base/ low idle setting, runs/ idles like a sewing machine. Hand throttle idles it up like it should. Floor throttle will not achieve higher rpms as hand throttle.

I'm not really looking for top speeds of 55mph.....but 45 would be nice (maybe I'm dreaming or wishing for a nightmare?) I'm shying away from injector pump issues due to no other issue (no rough idle/ hard start/ no start/ etc) other than the low power/ low speed issue. I am not as familiar with this pump as I will be, but have read and read on it (timing/ turning fuel pump up, etc. but dont want to mess with that just yet unless its required, and would like to talk to someone that has mechanical experience on the OM352. I read that sometimes the "rebuild" at the military depot sometimes alters the injection pump timing/ fuel delivery ratios to lower/ safer limits, however I can not confirm nor deny that statement.

I checked fuel filter condition (pre filter) and its clean. Havent changed main fuel filters yet (on order) as it was sitting at my buddies house and just got it home yesterday. Air filter is clean & in serviceable condition. Tires are at 40psi.

I am a newbie to this site, but not to diesels as I have owned a '85 Mercedes 300SD & a '02 Ford F250 PSD for over 20yrs plus my dad always having an old case backhoe & performed alot of the maintenance/ repairs myself, so I'm not a complete idiot (sometimes a partial idiot, though)....so I am hunting for the needle in the haystack when someone chimes in and says "They are know for this, when that happens." or anything similar.

I apologize for the length of the post, and in case I didnt do something correctly prior to posting this forum.

Thanks in advance.

K-

 

[Speedwoble]

Good luck in the mechanic search. In most cases you are paying a mechanic to learn about Unimogs. Regarding your throttle, it seems pretty conclusive that you have shown it achieves higher RPM with the hand throttle than the Foot throttle. So look at the linkage that is different between those two. No need to worry about the IP. You have seen the issue is upstream of that.
If you are going to go above 30mph on the road, think about more PSI in the tires. The FLU is plenty floaty as is.

 

[Speedwoble]

Oh, and don’t use 4wd on dry pavement, it binds and is much harder to steer. Will it kill it? Probably not. But you should avoid bad habits.

 

[Kommandant]

Good luck in the mechanic search. In most cases you are paying a mechanic to learn about Unimogs. Regarding your throttle, it seems pretty conclusive that you have shown it achieves higher RPM with the hand throttle than the Foot throttle. So look at the linkage that is different between those two. No need to worry about the IP. You have seen the issue is upstream of that.
If you are going to go above 30mph on the road, think about more PSI in the tires. The FLU is plenty floaty as is.

Right on.
Thank you for the response.

 

[Migginsbros]

And look the TM´s they are all available at the forum. For questions use FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

 

[Migginsbros]

Look for San Antonio members like airbornebandsman or the chaplain ( USAFSS-Cold Warrior) perhaps somebody knews someone.

 

[Migginsbros]

You can easy clean the small filter near the tank. But look at your main fuel filters.




And there is an in tank filter,too.

 

[Migginsbros]

We had same symtoms. No rev. no power but easy start and low idle. Clogged filters. Spammed fuel tank.

 

[Kommandant]

We had same symtoms. No rev. no power but easy start and low idle. Clogged filters. Spammed fuel tank.

View attachment 850107

Awesome to know that. Thank you

 

[Kommandant]

And look the TM´s they are all available at the forum. For questions use FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

Copy that. Thank you. I have printed out all the TM’s.

 

[glcaines]

I had very similar issues with my FLU419 when I first got it. Check out the rod in the throttle linkage P/N 4063000615BA at Expedition Imports. Mine was mangled and I replaced it for less than $30.00 at EI. I also went ahead and replaced all of the throttle springs and lubricated everything. If the throttle linkage is adjusted correctly, the engine should shut down when the hand throttle is closed down to the plastic stop. You should not have to pull the lever to the side and push it past the stop to shut the engine down. You should always shut down the engine with the hand throttle and then turn the master and key off. According to the TM, shutting down the engine via the master or the key can cause damage. The TM has excellent instructions on how to adjust the linkage. My SEE will now go 48 MPH on level ground, but I'll never do that again! I drive it around 30 - 35 max, where it is more stable.

 

[Kommandant]

I had very similar issues with my FLU419 when I first got it. Check out the rod in the throttle linkage P/N 4063000615BA at Expedition Imports. Mine was mangled and I replaced it for less than $30.00 at EI. I also went ahead and replaced all of the throttle springs and lubricated everything. If the throttle linkage is adjusted correctly, the engine should shut down when the hand throttle is closed down to the plastic stop. You should not have to pull the lever to the side and push it past the stop to shut the engine down. You should always shut down the engine with the hand throttle and then turn the master and key off. According to the TM, shutting down the engine via the master or the key can cause damage. The TM has excellent instructions on how to adjust the linkage. My SEE will now go 48 MPH on level ground, but I'll never do that again! I drive it around 30 - 35 max, where it is more stable.

Great information! Thank you very much. I will take a look at the TM for adjustments.

 

[FrankenMOG]

Great information! Thank you very much. I will take a look at the TM for adjustments.

Hi Kommandant,

I found your post seeking mechanics in the San Antonio area. I saw that you are in New Braunfels. My home is in Boerne. I wonder if you were able to find someone in the area who could help out?

There were no specific mechanics recommended by the other member's responses, but it was suggested that you might 'look for San Antonio members like airbornebandsman or the chaplain ( USAFSS-Cold Warrior) perhaps somebody knows someone'. Were you able to get in touch with those guys, and if so, were they able to offer any options?

I have two UNIMOGs. One is the FLU-419, and the other is the US agricultural version of the UNIMOG 406, the Case MB4/94. My FLU-419 was someone's unfinished rebuild attempt that I bought, along with an unused rebuilt engine, still in the shipping crate. This has been quite a learning experience, and I'm proud of what I have been able to do myself, given with what I had to work with - some (but, as I learned, not all) parts and a bunch of nuts and bolts in buckets. That’s the origin of my alias – FrankenMOG.

Using the downloaded technical manuals for guidance, I have been working on putting it back together pretty solidly over the last 14 months or so, and I'm at the point where I need some help. It runs and purrs like a kitten, but I can't get any air pressure to build up (at all), and the moment I let out the clutch, the engine just binds and shuts off. I expect someone who really knows these machines would be able to figure out the problem I have in no time.

Not asking you to fix my problem, I would just appreciate it if I could benefit from the work and research you have already done into local mechanics who may be able to help.

Respectfully,

FrankenMOG - a.k.a. Sean

 

[Kommandant]

Hi Kommandant,

I found your post seeking mechanics in the San Antonio area. I saw that you are in New Braunfels. My home is in Boerne. I wonder if you were able to find someone in the area who could help out?

There were no specific mechanics recommended by the other member's responses, but it was suggested that you might 'look for San Antonio members like airbornebandsman or the chaplain ( USAFSS-Cold Warrior) perhaps somebody knows someone'. Were you able to get in touch with those guys, and if so, were they able to offer any options?

I have two UNIMOGs. One is the FLU-419, and the other is the US agricultural version of the UNIMOG 406, the Case MB4/94. My FLU-419 was someone's unfinished rebuild attempt that I bought, along with an unused rebuilt engine, still in the shipping crate. This has been quite a learning experience, and I'm proud of what I have been able to do myself, given with what I had to work with - some (but, as I learned, not all) parts and a bunch of nuts and bolts in buckets. That’s the origin of my alias – FrankenMOG.

Using the downloaded technical manuals for guidance, I have been working on putting it back together pretty solidly over the last 14 months or so, and I'm at the point where I need some help. It runs and purrs like a kitten, but I can't get any air pressure to build up (at all), and the moment I let out the clutch, the engine just binds and shuts off. I expect someone who really knows these machines would be able to figure out the problem I have in no time.

Not asking you to fix my problem, I would just appreciate it if I could benefit from the work and research you have already done into local mechanics who may be able to help.

Respectfully,

FrankenMOG - a.k.a. Sean

Unfortunately, I had no luck with a local mechanic. I tinkered with the throttle linkage per the TM’s as best I could and got it acceptable, but not anything like the videos show (doing 45mph down the road). It was more like 35mph, which was ok…..but not ok.
I actually just sold mine, so I don’t have one here anymore to help you/ reference.
Good luck on your search and putting yours back together.

 

[peakbagger]

In my case I had to replace some parts. Because the cab is designed to be lifted up (with a lot of hassle and some special tools), the pedal linkage attached to the pedal is not firmly attached to the rest of the linkage. Instead it is hooked to a roller that pushes on rounded lever with big spring keeping things in tension (its been four or five years since I messed with it) . In my case the nylon bushing that the throttle pedal goes through the transmission tunnel was worn and the curved linkage was bent, so full pedal travel only moved the throttle linkage half way. Once I swapped the linkage with a new unbent version I could then adjust the throttle. Mine was not a depot special and I bought it from someone else, a former member of this forum, and my guess is he tried to adjust it incorrectly and caused the part to bend. I know I have the old bent pieces in a box somewhere but it would require digging. I think I bought my repair parts from a dealer in Georgia who got out of Unimogs. I think their parts guy ended up with Expedition imports but when I look quickly in the inventory I do not see the part I bought, Its a shared part with the 406 family so its probably available in Europe through Atkinson Vos but EI can and does import parts from Europe.

One hint is that there is removable panel on the transmission tunnel that gives you better visual access to the linkage. Definitely remove it as its quite confusing even with the manuals. While you are messing with the linkage make sure you lubricate the long rod that runs through the block from the drivers to passenger side.

My standard warning that applies to SEE owners, if you are not willing to become the mechanic, do yourself a favor and sell it now. It is a complex device and it is going to require ongoing Maintenace and repairs. It is also 30 plus or minus years old, the majority of people who may have been familiar with this series are retired. If you hire someone, you are paying them to learn on the job. It is not more difficult to work on them it is just different than a US vehicle.

 

[FrankenMOG]

In my case I had to replace some parts. Because the cab is designed to be lifted up (with a lot of hassle and some special tools), the pedal linkage attached to the pedal is not firmly attached to the rest of the linkage. Instead it is hooked to a roller that pushes on rounded lever with big spring keeping things in tension (its been four or five years since I messed with it) . In my case the nylon bushing that the throttle pedal goes through the transmission tunnel was worn and the curved linkage was bent, so full pedal travel only moved the throttle linkage half way. Once I swapped the linkage with a new unbent version I could then adjust the throttle. Mine was not a depot special and I bought it from someone else, a former member of this forum, and my guess is he tried to adjust it incorrectly and caused the part to bend. I know I have the old bent pieces in a box somewhere but it would require digging. I think I bought my repair parts from a dealer in Georgia who got out of Unimogs. I think their parts guy ended up with Expedition imports but when I look quickly in the inventory I do not see the part I bought, Its a shared part with the 406 family so its probably available in Europe through Atkinson Vos but EI can and does import parts from Europe.

One hint is that there is removable panel on the transmission tunnel that gives you better visual access to the linkage. Definitely remove it as its quite confusing even with the manuals. While you are messing with the linkage make sure you lubricate the long rod that runs through the block from the drivers to passenger side.

My standard warning that applies to SEE owners, if you are not willing to become the mechanic, do yourself a favor and sell it now. It is a complex device and it is going to require ongoing Maintenace and repairs. It is also 30 plus or minus years old, the majority of people who may have been familiar with this series are retired. If you hire someone, you are paying them to learn on the job. It is not more difficult to work on them it is just different than a US vehicle.

Thanks guys. Oh, and I was well aware of the challenge I was taking on. It’s been a bunch of work, but it’s been fun too. When I got my SEE, there was a lot that had already been disconnected and diassembled, with nothing labeled, and parts missing. Using the TMs (including the exploded parts views to check for what’s missing and proper part orientation), I have able to put it back together. I’ve referred to it as my ‘8 ton puzzle’. I’m just now at the point where someone knowledgeable with some fresh ideas - would really come in handy. A lot of these things get picked up at the Texas Red River depot - and thus end up with an owner in Texas. My hope was that someone in our beautiful Texas Hill Country was among them.

 

[The FLU farm]

Wish you were closer. I went to Paris, TX, earlier this month to pick up a railer, and may end up going there again, but...

It took me over 24 hours to make the 1,600-mile trip as it was. If also going a bit off course and adding a few hundred miles, I wouldn't be in shape to be much help. And that I'm now selling my old trailer, capable of hauling a FLU, wouldn't do you much good either, since it's here with me.

 

[FrankenMOG]

Wish you were closer. I went to Paris, TX, earlier this month to pick up a railer, and may end up going there again, but...

It took me over 24 hours to make the 1,600-mile trip as it was. If also going a bit off course and adding a few hundred miles, I wouldn't be in shape to be much help. And that I'm now selling my old trailer, capable of hauling a FLU, wouldn't do you much good either, since it's here with me.

Dang, now that’s a ‘road trip’! Yeah, Texas is pretty big. Paris is a bit of a hike from here. No worries, and thanks for the acknowledgment/post. I’m pretty confident that I will figure it out eventually. Thanks to all the thoughtful previous posts from you and the other SS members taking the time to document what you learned, I can search previous posts for any mention of the exact kind of trouble I’m having or at least pick up enough wisdom second-hand to give me some clues about what to try next. Your efforts are greatly appreciated. And since I had minor surgery, and got COVID on top of that, I have had time to do a bit of searching among the previous posts…so I know what I’m going to try next. Briefly, the machine I got was in the Rio Grande Valley of Texas. Very close to the Gulf of Mexico, very hot, humid and salt-air from the gulf. I’m guessing the problem I’m having with inability to build any air pressure in the system has to do with moisture=>rust buildup in the system. I saw Speedwobble’s post from 2020 demonstrating the cool crossover air lines he had fabricated from stainless steel. I’m pretty sure he made the cab brackets I bought from EI. Depending on what I find when I crawl back under my blue FrankenMOG, I recon I may need one of those too. Cheers from Texas…

 

[The FLU farm]

I bought those brackets, too, and they have worked exactly as I hoped - by having them I haven't needed them. Yet anyway.

And welcome to the Covid club. Had it for the third time about five months ago, and this time it decided to kick my butt, hard. Oh well, life goes on, thankfully, and when (if) I catch up on things and have a bit of time I can hopefully help you out some.