rmgill
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Squirt Truck fitted an electric fan to his M54 some years ago.
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Fording Project
- Thread starter rustystud
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daytonatrbo
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HA! I was just reading this thread where RustyStud decided that electric fans were a bad idea.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?26479-Changing-the-thermostat-questions/page5
Funny how opinions change.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?26479-Changing-the-thermostat-questions/page5
Funny how opinions change.
rustystud
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Like I said I like electric fans just not all the electrical crap associated with modern vehicles. Mine will be very simple. Also I just had to deal with a bad metal fan (rusted rivets) and I can't afford to have my radiator damaged by a wonky blade. Now if someone came up with a quality heavy duty "Stainless Steel" fan !
So my basic opinion never changed .
daytonatrbo
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I was just messing with you. I happened to be reading that thread because my truck isn't heating up as quickly as I'd like and found it humorous that you were now gearing up to install electric fans after making that statement a couple of years ago.Like I said I like electric fans just not all the electrical crap associated with modern vehicles. Mine will be very simple. Also I just had to deal with a bad metal fan (rusted rivets) and I can't afford to have my radiator damaged by a wonky blade. Now if someone came up with a quality heavy duty "Stainless Steel" fan !
So my basic opinion never changed .
Now I'm going to go look up those electric fans....
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I guess from an EPA stand point it's a good thing to run through the intake. Bad would be the air is dead and any oil blow by that gets through to the filter. Myself I would just have a extension hose for the road draft tube to add before fording. The extension could be on a quick coupler and does not need to be as big as the 3 foot of extension all ready there. You could get away with 1/2 just to let some pressure out.
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Another Ahab
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You can try, but there just "ain't" no messing with rustystud. It's the darnedest thing:
- Because he'll always double-back and set you straight.
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I can't draw like "G" but you get the idea. I like to keep thing simple and don't trust electric stuff. Before fording as said it's good to look over the truck and some trucks have vented fuel caps so you still need a walk around to close off the cap valve. Might even look to see if the tool box has anything in it that should not get wet so closing the draft tube would take no time. The lower housing plug just gets replaced with a ball valve as said before.
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daytonatrbo
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With a catch can, and it plumbed to the intake, you can run it the same whether fording or driving.
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Most catch can are all right at best. I found the RX catch can at $300.00 worked best for my Silverado. Would I spend 300 on a Deuce catch can or just put in a cheap valve. I go valve.
daytonatrbo
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$300??? WHY?? Cuz its pretty?
Make one. Rusty has a nice tank picked out already.
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I read the reports and tests on the RX and other types and decided to go with RX. Pretty has nothing to do with it due diligence has always worked for me. I hope Rusty can get it all together and his system works well. As said I like to keep things simple so take a simple truck and make it prone makes me wonder.
Looks good so far Rusty.
Looks good so far Rusty.
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daytonatrbo
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BMW uses a "cyclone separator". It's incredibly effective, but I'm not sure a diesel creates enough vacuum to get the flow needed, even on the "clean" side of the air filter.
One of my BMW engines at 227K miles never burned a drop of oil even over a 10k mile interval.
tim292stro
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Removed by me.
rustystud
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OK here is my design for the slobber tank. The hose from the slobber tube will come into the tank at the 1-1/4" hose barb. Since the vapor will have had a chance to cool down, the oil that was held in vapor will have separated and collect in the bottom of the tank along with any moisture. The air will then go out the two 1/2" hoses on either end to a "T" and then from there to a 1" hose to the air-filter housing. Since I already owned the tank and most of the fittings it didn't cost me much at all except time to clean-up the tank.The second picture is my air manifold with a Normally-Open solenoid at the bottom. When the valve is activated it closes and then the top fitting will receive the regulated air from the low-flow regulator inside the cab.
rustystud
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I forgot to add this picture showing the bottom port where the drain valve will be. When I do my monthly inspection I will drain this tank of all the collected crud.This is a "simple" system with no electronics or valves to go bad, just a simple drain valve like your air tanks have. It will be permanently mounted to the frame and I will never have to remember to close a valve or open it to Ford a stream. Simple.
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Well you can try it and worse case you have to get a new air filter and redesign.http://oilcatchcan.com/
rustystud
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I totally agree with that article, which is why I already decided to put some stainless steel wool I already have just for this purpose in the hose going to and from the collection tank. Trust me I already thought about all the ramifications of this system. The hoses are over 4 ft long each. That's 8 foot of hose for the oil to try and climb out of. Just like the article you referred to says, it is far better to have this type of collection system then just a dump tube like our trucks have. If you stop and think about it I just basically built a overgrown PVC system which "every" car and truck built today has on it. They don't ruin there air filters do they ? No they don't and my system will not either. No more gunk on the driveway or our roads. No more gunk on my trucks starter or differential and no way water will enter my engine from the slobber tube. The only maintenance needed is to drain the tank once a month.
daytonatrbo
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That's why the scroll design of the BMW system is so effective. However, they got a little greedy with the passage size on some models and they are prone to condensation freezing up in them and causing issues.
The air velocity on a gas engine pulling manifold vacuum is much higher than anything Rusty's setup will see. His design will have to account for that. Slow moving air stream going into a large tank like he has may allow sufficient stagnation for the oil to drop out on its own.
If he can keep the tank cool, even better.
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Dang you up early this morning Rusty. I know you can cut that tank open and put in a cool baffle system if there is ever a problem.
Another Ahab
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You know what you're doing, rustystud. Wow!
Sometimes the simplest solution is the hardest one to come up with, and you ALWAYS go right TO it:
- Impressive. Really impressive.
Your thread here is its own stand-alone sticky on how it's done. Nice.![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]")
Sometimes the simplest solution is the hardest one to come up with, and you ALWAYS go right TO it:
- Impressive. Really impressive.
Your thread here is its own stand-alone sticky on how it's done. Nice.