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found a M35A2

O.D. Fever

New member
545
2
0
Location
Howard City, Mi.
I sold my personal Duece

Two months ago I sold Our Baby. 1971 m35a2 w/w, hard top, troop seats, Good canvas, heater. Great shape 21,000 miles, serviced. $7,500.00, he did not blink an eye and have not heard from him since. Also two new Millspec Batts with new Millspec terminals. :sad:
 

Motorcar

Member
271
3
18
Location
San Antonio, TX
Looks solid, slow leak on the pinion gear but that like all the other seals are fixable. Like was already said there is some moisture on a wheel cylinder and due diligence says check the brakes before you drive it, master cylinder fluid level etc. Driveable M35A2s are getting slim around the GL auctions. This one doesn't look modified and the engine, trans, and transfer case aren't leaking like the Exxon Valdez, a matter of what you are willing to pay to drive off the lot.
 

shadowrwolf

New member
110
0
0
Location
Tx
well been talking to my uncle who drove them and helped out a little bit in the motor pool he did not have anything good to say about the multi fuel engine. ses its unreliable and just a pane in the ass and recommended i only offer scrap price for it.
and clames its no good in mud because of the lack of high RPMs (i am not a murder i do take hings off road but no to bogging pits or in to the swamp)

im thinking around 3k i will need to replace all hoses, systematically replace the gaskets and what not, new hard top or soft (i kinda like the soft) needs a paint job

fix the leaks on the engine then strip the ezey things and steam clean it and paint it in the bay.

i talked to the base hobby shop seems they will be ok with me working on it there
 

joshs1ofakindxj

Active member
738
120
43
Location
SW PA
maybe it had something to do with the 18 year olds turning the fuel up without regard and driving the trucks like they stole them?

I would disregard pretty much everything he said.

In the mud, what do you want to do? It is certainly geared low enough to spin the tires through anything, just not throw the mud into the next county.
 

shadowrwolf

New member
110
0
0
Location
Tx
maybe it had something to do with the 18 year olds turning the fuel up without regard and driving the trucks like they stole them?

I would disregard pretty much everything he said.

In the mud, what do you want to do? It is certainly geared low enough to spin the tires through anything, just not throw the mud into the next county.

ya thats what i figure. as for the mud i dont know if i can believe him plenty of vids out there of the showing they can make it threw a mud pit, just takes a bit longer than some of those insane boggers.
 

CARNAC

The Envelope Please.
Supporting Vendor
8,281
649
113
Location
Corpus Christi, TX
I'd only go 3. It's a plain jane and the canvas is the old style open end. If he has the end curtains, that could help but still.
 

joshs1ofakindxj

Active member
738
120
43
Location
SW PA
its definitely not going to spin them like a built bogger with a big block, but it will haul 5 tons of groceries home and out live you and your children if properly cared for, so there are trade-offs.
 

gungearz

New member
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Location
northwestern indiana
I got one without a winch, a hardtop, 90% tires, heater and 350 hours on a fresh motor for 4k. I'd do at the most 4k for that one if you don't want to travel... But if your willing to travel. I'm sure you can get more for your money somewhere else.
 

lawdog1623

New member
274
1
0
Location
Texas
well, heres my two cents worth. The question is what is this truck worth to YOU? It really doesnt matter what me, or anyone else for that matter, would pay. How bad do you want it in a market where the price of trucks is on the rise quickly. The fact of the matter is that you are in texas and i considered selling my truck and could have gotten 6k or better any day of the week and i never expected it to go for that high. These were offers that were given to me in person, so you are actually on a fairly decent deal. I simply chose to keep mine, i just couldnt part with it. People want these trucks and they are drying up. Now, having said that imo, you have a decent truck on your hands for anywhere in the ballpark of what you're talking about giving for it. 3000 to 4500 is not a bad price. The trucks biggest enemy right now appears to be rust. It appears that as far as the engine is concerned, the biggest rust spot is the oil canisters. These should be the first thing that goes in the trash for a set of spin ons anyway so this is a moot point. That will eliminate that problem. I would then attack that truck with phosphoric acid to remove the rust and then hit it with the paint of your choice. PROBLEM SOLVED! I would also ask if you could be allowed to remove the instrument cluster and look at the area under the cowling to insure that it has not rusted through. This area seems to be a very nasty point of damage that goes un-noticed. If you find that there is no damage in this area, i would then move on to the rear section of the cab, in the area behind the seats to see if there is any damage there. If you find that this trucks cab is relatively free of severe rust damage, i would jump on it. Replacing a rusted out cab is a huge job that you dont want to tackle if you dont have to. I did also notice that your driver side door is rusted out at the bottom. This is also another place you will have to fix. These are all areas i would point out to drive the price down on your initial offer. The upper radiator hose is an easy fix but while you're there you might as well attack the whole cooling system. Flush the cooling system thoroughly, Remove and inspect the radiator, replace all the hoses from the water pump. Replace the lower radiator hose, then replace the coolant. This is maintenance that should be done upon purchasing a truck any way. You would be amazed at what you will get out of that cooling system. You should also budget in a fresh oil change. I would feel confident in driving the truck routinely after the above is all complete.

I know its long winded but i hope this helps you learn from mistakes that i made.

best of luck
 

porkysplace

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
9,604
1,493
113
Location
mid- michigan
I agree with carnac and would not go over $3000 . This truck is straight from GL and your going to put another $2000 into it , by the time you replace the top , hoses , fluid changes , go through the brakes . You may or may not squeeze a cheap paint job out of the $2000 repair budget . I'm not sure where in texas you are but up in the panhandle you may want a heater ( another $300 to $500 ) . Do all the lights work ?
 

shadowrwolf

New member
110
0
0
Location
Tx
well, heres my two cents worth. The question is what is this truck worth to YOU? It really doesnt matter what me, or anyone else for that matter, would pay. How bad do you want it in a market where the price of trucks is on the rise quickly. The fact of the matter is that you are in texas and i considered selling my truck and could have gotten 6k or better any day of the week and i never expected it to go for that high. These were offers that were given to me in person, so you are actually on a fairly decent deal. I simply chose to keep mine, i just couldnt part with it. People want these trucks and they are drying up. Now, having said that imo, you have a decent truck on your hands for anywhere in the ballpark of what you're talking about giving for it. 3000 to 4500 is not a bad price. The trucks biggest enemy right now appears to be rust. It appears that as far as the engine is concerned, the biggest rust spot is the oil canisters. These should be the first thing that goes in the trash for a set of spin ons anyway so this is a moot point. That will eliminate that problem. I would then attack that truck with phosphoric acid to remove the rust and then hit it with the paint of your choice. PROBLEM SOLVED! I would also ask if you could be allowed to remove the instrument cluster and look at the area under the cowling to insure that it has not rusted through. This area seems to be a very nasty point of damage that goes un-noticed. If you find that there is no damage in this area, i would then move on to the rear section of the cab, in the area behind the seats to see if there is any damage there. If you find that this trucks cab is relatively free of severe rust damage, i would jump on it. Replacing a rusted out cab is a huge job that you dont want to tackle if you dont have to. I did also notice that your driver side door is rusted out at the bottom. This is also another place you will have to fix. These are all areas i would point out to drive the price down on your initial offer. The upper radiator hose is an easy fix but while you're there you might as well attack the whole cooling system. Flush the cooling system thoroughly, Remove and inspect the radiator, replace all the hoses from the water pump. Replace the lower radiator hose, then replace the coolant. This is maintenance that should be done upon purchasing a truck any way. You would be amazed at what you will get out of that cooling system. You should also budget in a fresh oil change. I would feel confident in driving the truck routinely after the above is all complete.

I know its long winded but i hope this helps you learn from mistakes that i made.

best of luck

long winded is good thats the kinda info i was looking for, thanks for the help i will defonetly check out those areas, can the behinde the instrument cluster be inspected with a inspection mirror or pulling it the only way.
 

shadowrwolf

New member
110
0
0
Location
Tx
I agree with carnac and would not go over $3000 . This truck is straight from GL and your going to put another $2000 into it , by the time you replace the top , hoses , fluid changes , go through the brakes . You may or may not squeeze a cheap paint job out of the $2000 repair budget . I'm not sure where in texas you are but up in the panhandle you may want a heater ( another $300 to $500 ) . Do all the lights work ?

all the lights worked he regesterd it as a truck not a old military vehicle so he had to get it inspected and has licence plates on it. it was inspected and pased the TX vehicle inspection this year.
 

shadowrwolf

New member
110
0
0
Location
Tx
The fact that it has plates and passed a highway inspection is a positive (but raises the price) on both counts.

dont know why he plated it, eser and cheeper to regester it as a old military vehicle here in TX dont need plates just some kind of military numberings on it for ID
 
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