Found metal chips in oil, still runs great

[Wildchild467]

When you consider the other things that could have gone wrong, it looks like you got off pretty light. Good job of finding it.

I take real good care of the truck, so it shouldn't have a reason to come apart on me.

 

[welldigger]

I had a governor weight break off on my ip. That caused my engine to surge when I wasn't on the throttle. Luckily it didn't damage anything when it happened. Got my ip rebuilt and haven't looked back.

 

[Wildchild467]

I dont want to spend the money for a new complete pump. Besides, if I have an LDS pump, I might as well put that one on.

 

[welldigger]

I see no issue with that.

 

[Wildchild467]

I bet my timing advance was not working well, so anything will be an improvement over what I had

 

[74M35A2]

I take real good care of the truck, so it shouldn't have a reason to come apart on me.

Has nothing to do with it.

 

[74M35A2]

I bet my timing advance was not working well, so anything will be an improvement over what I had

What do those weights control? Are they the timing advance mech? Are they the RPM governor? A combo of both? Didn't know it had an advance mechanism. I don't believe my 6CTA8.3 does (not that it is related to this, but just mechanical diesel in general).

 

[oddshot]

I take real good care of the truck, so it shouldn't have a reason to come apart on me.

I'm very sure that you do. Recently I've been doing a lot of reading about cam shaft failures in multi-fuel engines.

In almost every thread, the owner has said almost the very same thing.

Has nothing to do with it.

+1. Regardless of good or bad maintenance, parts do fail. Some stuff just breaks. Good maintenance prevents a lot of bad things but luck certainly plays a role ESPECIALLY with the rolling antiques we are driving.

You were very lucky, and I am very glad for you. Other folks aren't so lucky.

 

[andy3]

Feel your pain Sir. I'm dieing to drive my truck again soon. I know I will be babying it even more than before.

 

[Wildchild467]

I'm very sure that you do. Recently I've been doing a lot of reading about cam shaft failures in multi-fuel engines.

In almost every thread, the owner has said almost the very same thing.



+1. Regardless of good or bad maintenance, parts do fail. Some stuff just breaks. Good maintenance prevents a lot of bad things but luck certainly plays a role ESPECIALLY with the rolling antiques we are driving.

You were very lucky, and I am very glad for you. Other folks aren't so lucky.

You guys are a buzz kill. hahaha! Just kidding. Seriously though, I think if i had not caught the problem early, that weight would have gave way and eventually taken out the side of my injection pump. I have noticed higher than normal exhaust temps and it just did not seem to be like itself lately. After finding the chips in the oil, it made me investigate. Before I was looking to my injectors for the lack in power.

 

[Wildchild467]

I found this in the injection pump TM. I believe the weaker pin shown in this picture is the reason for timing advances come apart and blow holes in the side of the injection pump. This shows the pin style I have, Pin "A". Pin "B" must be an upgraded pin, less prone to failure.

 

[Wildchild467]

Well I got my truck back together with an LDS pump and and LDT hydraulic head. It turns out that the Code E hydraulic head works fine on the Code B LDS pump. Before I put the LDS pump on, My Dad and I (thanks for your help Dad!) took apart the timing advance just to check the timing advance weight pins and to put new o-rings in the main housing (my old pump used to leak oil very badly). We noticed the extra "meat" on the rivets/pins holding the weights in as I mentioned in post #71 of this thread. I was good with that so we assembled it back together (definitely a 2 man job to hold everything) and put it in the truck. Everything went smoothly and I am happy with the results. I only have minor adjustments such as turn the pump down (FDC is now bypassed) and check throttle linkage to make sure the stop under my accelerator pedal is adjusted properly. It has smooth power although may not be as much power as an LDS with the correct LDS hydraulic head.... but still runs very well and very smooth (WMO as fuel).

 

[todds112]

Is there an O-ring or gasket between the advance housing and the main housing of the IP. I think that's where mine is leaking oil from.

 

[smoothoperator]

Great thread & good to hear it's all worked out.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Is there an O-ring or gasket between the advance housing and the main housing of the IP. I think that's where mine is leaking oil from.

More than likely one of the oil lines or the booster pump gasket.

 

[todds112]

More than likely one of the oil lines or the booster pump gasket.

I was thinking the oil lines at first, but the oil seems to be collecting right on the seam between the main housing and the advance housing. Of course I can't see up behind it to tell for sure. Pretty sure it's not the booster pump it's pretty clean around that.

 

[Jeepsinker]

It may be the advance housing gasket then.

 

[Wildchild467]

I was thinking the oil lines at first, but the oil seems to be collecting right on the seam between the main housing and the advance housing. Of course I can't see up behind it to tell for sure. Pretty sure it's not the booster pump it's pretty clean around that.

Yes there is an o-ring that seals the advance housing to the main housing. There is another o-ring of the same exact size that seals the advance housing to cast iron piece that bolts the pump to the engine (so 2 o-rings of the exact same size seal both ends of the timing advance housing). My pump leaked engine oil and when I took my old pump apart I noticed that my o-rings that seal both ends of the timing advance housing were flattened and was most likely contributing to the oil leak i was seeing in my driveway. Also the rubber oil pressure line that goes from the block to the injection pump was hard and was not in the best shape (stake on push on fittings on the hose). The gentleman at the hose shop said my old hose was not rated for the temperature and that is why the rubber got hard (and possibly leaked a very little bit). The hose he made for me is now rated for 300 degrees and 300 PSI working pressure. He also took the old collar that had the part number of the hose off my old hose and put it on my new hose before he put the fitting on the end! It was not needed, but its was a nice touch.

Long story short, from my experience so far, If your injection pump leaks oil and you have time to work on it and fix it right I would do the following: Replace the two o-rings on each end of the timing advance housing and replace both oil rubber pressure feed lines. In my case that is what I saw that was not in great condition and most likely leaking.

 

[Wildchild467]

The part number of the (2) o-rings that are on either end of the timing advance housing are MS28775-235. There are a total of 2 o-rings per injection pump. While you have the timing advance off, check the pins for your centrifugal weights like I mentioned previously in this tread. Since you have the pump off the truck, you could put new hydraulic head o-rings on and a new seal in your boost pump if you wanted to also... pretty much go through the whole thing. One thing leads leads to another!

 

[todds112]

I think that's exactly what I have going on. Ugh, looks like a big job to fix a leak. Thanks for the info.