Found out torque wrench is not accurate *after* rear main seal job

[goldneagle]

I only loan tools to people who are over 80 years of age and can produce a note from their Great, Great, Great Grandmother, stating that they will vouch for said person. I hate it when my kids even look at my tools.

My dad did not mind when I used his tools. However he did complain that I did not put them back where I got them from.

 

[SCSG-G4]

The click type need to be set to 0 during storage.

Always!

 

[rustystud]

I only loan tools to people who are over 80 years of age and can produce a note from their Great, Great, Great Grandmother, stating that they will vouch for said person. I hate it when my kids even look at my tools.

Considering my tools is how I make a living I don't lend them out to anyone. I will let my best friend who is also a mechanic and owns his own shop borrow a tool every now and then but he doesn't ask very often since he doesn't loan tools either, and he only asks to borrow some of my specialty transmission tools. Since they are so expensive I don't expect him to buy some for a one-off job. He lets me use his shop after hours so it's a win win situation for both of us.
I just wish my son took any interest in my tools or vehicles instead of his video games.

 

[zebedee]

Seams like a whole load of fuss. Why not just calibrate it at home. After all you are measuring "foot"-"pounds". Got a tape measure and a shopping bag? Everything from the grocery store has a weight on it (less the tin/jar etc), but loose veggies, or packets of grains/sugar etc., have negligible weight wrapping (in comparison). Got a 'free weight set'......... Stick the square drive in the vise with the wrench sticking straight out - measure from the center of the drive to a point - add a known weight, multiply one by the other and that is what it is set at if it clicks. If it clicks early or late you can work out your % error and recalculate all your figures or use the adjustment screws to fix it....

[ Agree with Ron - 1 post​ above - don't mess with a good (waranteed one) other than for a self test: feet x lbs - to see if it needs to be sent back. Cheapo - have at it]

We have a local tyre guy who insists on doing a double click but he goes 'through' the second click to the stop and keeps going for a few degrees! Drives me nuts as he is so overdoing the torque. There is no point in my mind, of having a torque wrench or reading the OEM specs if you don't know how the d@mn thing works!!!!

Double clicking (just the click - NOT GOING BEYOND) won't change the torque - it's like the people that tighten their gas caps making it sound like a full clip of an mini AK47 - NOT MAKING IT ANY TIGHTER! one click is sufficient.

I once had the slimey responsibility of ensuring all instrumentation used by the construction Co. I worked for was kept within tolerance. Most was sent out if found out of spec, some stuff I could do in the shop. Even the 5M (15') tapes the site engineers (surveyors) were using were "supposed" to be included in the system. Sheesh.

 

[73m819]

If you have a GOOD toque wrench, DO NOT self calibrate it, if there is a life time warranty, it will go away the instant you you screw with it, if you want to self calibrate, go buy a cheapy.

 

[cucvrus]

At work we use click torque wrenches and we are required to keep a certificate of calibration. They are supposed to be certified calibrated every 6 months. For 25 years we had Snap-On and Mac torque wrenches. The last 3 years we have Cobalt. The Snap-On's were costing $75. - $100. each to have recalibrated every 6 months. And you needed to stock replacements that had semi-expired calibration. The Cobalts cost less then $75. and come with an acceptable certificate of calibration. And the date purchased new begins the calibration period. So every 6 months I buy new wrenches and believe it or not I torch the expired ones in half and throw them in the steel recycling dumpster. We were going to return them as they are warranted. We decided torching was the best policy. They wanted the same price to do a certified calibration on the Cobalts as the Mac's and Snap-On's. I just cut up 6 wrenches last week. The Cobalt's all have a serial number and we can issue and recall them as they reach expiration. Sounds crazy but it works. I have torque wrenches on order at all times at Lowes. I am waiting for 4 now. Just thought I would share that. It cut out the theft of the new ones this way because we caught guys doing the old switch a roey. Say they took the old one home but in fact took the new one. Always thinking. Have a great day. I can and will torch/scrap anything and have already new old makes no difference. If it's not mine and I get paid to dispose I do it.

 

[rustystud]

At work we use click torque wrenches and we are required to keep a certificate of calibration. They are supposed to be certified calibrated every 6 months. For 25 years we had Snap-On and Mac torque wrenches. The last 3 years we have Cobalt. The Snap-On's were costing $75. - $100. each to have recalibrated every 6 months. And you needed to stock replacements that had semi-expired calibration. The Cobalts cost less then $75. and come with an acceptable certificate of calibration. And the date purchased new begins the calibration period. So every 6 months I buy new wrenches and believe it or not I torch the expired ones in half and throw them in the steel recycling dumpster. We were going to return them as they are warranted. We decided torching was the best policy. They wanted the same price to do a certified calibration on the Cobalts as the Mac's and Snap-On's. I just cut up 6 wrenches last week. The Cobalt's all have a serial number and we can issue and recall them as they reach expiration. Sounds crazy but it works. I have torque wrenches on order at all times at Lowes. I am waiting for 4 now. Just thought I would share that. It cut out the theft of the new ones this way because we caught guys doing the old switch a roey. Say they took the old one home but in fact took the new one. Always thinking. Have a great day. I can and will torch/scrap anything and have already new old makes no difference. If it's not mine and I get paid to dispose I do it.

Sounds like you work for the aircraft industry. I have gotten some great deals from the "Boeing" surplus center in the past. They also are required to calibrate every few months and after just a couple of calibrations they get new ones.

 

[Tracer]

Sounds like you work for the aircraft industry. I have gotten some great deals from the "Boeing" surplus center in the past. They also are required to calibrate every few months and after just a couple of calibrations they get new ones.

Exactly, I worked for Boeing at the Douglas Aircraft Facility in Long Beach California, and the tool crib attendants were required to check calibration certs on tools when they were checked in and out. When we merged with Boeing we went to ATD (automated tool dispensers) the machines kept track of when a tool was due for calibration. If it was past due, the machine would not check out the tool, and tooling was notified to come pick up the tool for calibration. Worked on the C-17 program till it closed last year, should be some deals at the Boeing surplus center about now.

 

[Guyfang]

Calibrations in the army was always a problem area. Nowadays, even with a computer to keep track of everything, its at best, something waiting to bite you on the butt. The only people who wind up getting assigned this thankless job are mostly duds. Or, one of the outstanding young NCO's who is so overloaded with "Extra Duties", that it still fails. The reward for good work, is more work.

When we deployed to germany, a whole PATRIOT Battalion., we were issued all new equipment. Everything new. As I was the Shop Officer, of a maintenance company and was accompanied at the time, I worked long hours on projects like Calibrations. A young S/P4 and I set up a program for not just our Maintenance Company, but the entire Battalion. Submitted EVERY tool and piece of equipment to the Calibrations people in K-town. Got it all back, issued it to the units, with everything perfect paperwise and up to snuff. One year later, the entire Battalion failed part of a very important NATO, (AFCE NATO TACEVAL) inspection, because of a total breakdown of programs like calibrations. One year's time. Thankfully my Company had been reassigned to another command and we did not fail. But only because of good NCO's and a command that enforced its policies.

Years later, when I worked as a contractor fixing power generation for the army, most units had contractors in the motor pools and they took care of calibrations. Worked like a charm. When the army got rid of the contractors, no one in the army knew how to do such "Extra Duties" and once again had to start at the bottom. Aviation companies still have contractors, so we felt safer riding in birds because of that. Sad, sad. If calibrations are not a full time job, it just doesn't work. ATD sounds wonderful. No room to cheat, and that's a big part of doing it right or wrong.

 

[rustystud]

Exactly, I worked for Boeing at the Douglas Aircraft Facility in Long Beach California, and the tool crib attendants were required to check calibration certs on tools when they were checked in and out. When we merged with Boeing we went to ATD (automated tool dispensers) the machines kept track of when a tool was due for calibration. If it was past due, the machine would not check out the tool, and tooling was notified to come pick up the tool for calibration. Worked on the C-17 program till it closed last year, should be some deals at the Boeing surplus center about now.

I don't know if Boeing Surplus is still open in Kent anymore. It has been quite a few years since I last went there, but I remember the deals that could be had there ! According to one of the workers there they are required to sell off material not used on a order of planes as surplus. I still have bags full of fittings and wire connectors and some stuff I don't even know what it was for but it looked real cool so I bought it.

 

[Dsilverline]

In case anyone is curious - I ended up going on the trip Couple days of offroading near Big Bear with my main cap bolts accidentally tightened to 75ft lbs haha - not a hiccup, ran like a champ. Now I can get a new oil pan gasket, rear main seal, invest in a new torque wrench and get that job done right.

In retrospect - a torque wrench is something that makes sense to buy good quality as there are a lot of critical items affected by it. If it's a hammer, screwdriver etc- might as well buy cheap because it doesn't really matter. I'll probably get a Snap-On and doublecheck it with my digital torque adaptor before doing critical engine work in the future. The HF wrench also sort of fell apart while adjusting so I guess now it will make a fine hammer - or scrap metal!

 

[Wildchild467]

I worked for a defense contractor for 4 years and I had the calibration department check my torque wrenches out, they were all within spec and only a couple pounds off. Those guys were saying even with brand new craftsman torque wrenches, they were not within spec. I think torque wrenches are one of those things where if you want accuracy, you have to pay for it... or borrow somebody's and give them a case of beer.

 

[Tracer]

Just bought a 3/4 torque wrench from harbor freight........think I'll have it checked.

 

[rustystud]

Just bought a 3/4 torque wrench from harbor freight........think I'll have it checked.

OK don't get me wrong I too have bought tools from Harbor Freight but I would never buy any measuring tool (dial indicator, calipers, micromters) or critical torque tool from them. I own only "Snap-On" torque wrenches and "Starrett" and "NSK" micrometers. My torque wrenches go from 30 in Ibs to 750 ft Ibs .

 

[LFGeorge]

You want to be cautious about using torque alone to measure bolt tension. Variations in bolt plating, bolt roughness, lubrication etc, can all dramatically change the torque needed for proper installation.

 

[Scar59]

You want to be cautious about using torque alone to measure bolt tension. Variations in bolt plating, bolt roughness, lubrication etc, can all dramatically change the torque needed for proper installation.

Yep, always torque to the complete specification; specs vary, dry, light oil, moly-lube, or anti-seize may be required. Additionally there may be a pre-torque and final torque with a defined time limit between.

 

[Tracer]

OK don't get me wrong I too have bought tools from Harbor Freight but I would never buy any measuring tool (dial indicator, calipers, micromters) or critical torque tool from them. I own only "Snap-On" torque wrenches and "Starrett" and "NSK" micrometers. My torque wrenches go from 30 in Ibs to 750 ft Ibs .

Rusty, I agree. Most of my torque wrenches are Craftsman, I even have a couple of the old pointer style Craftsman torque wrenches. But the biggest torque wrench I have only goes to 150 ft lbs., and I need to go to 157 lbs. to re torque the head nuts. Being a new retiree I just didn't have the cash at this time to get the torque wrench I would like.

 

[rustystud]

You want to be cautious about using torque alone to measure bolt tension. Variations in bolt plating, bolt roughness, lubrication etc, can all dramatically change the torque needed for proper installation.

I also own "Degree" wheels for those torques that require that. For example, torque to 140 ft Ibs and then 20 degrees more. Also all manuals will list how the bolt or stud is to be torqued, be it threads dry or lubed.

 

[rustystud]

Rusty, I agree. Most of my torque wrenches are Craftsman, I even have a couple of the old pointer style Craftsman torque wrenches. But the biggest torque wrench I have only goes to 150 ft lbs., and I need to go to 157 lbs. to re torque the head nuts. Being a new retiree I just didn't have the cash at this time to get the torque wrench I would like.

I understand totally ! I had to have them for my work so that's why I have so many for one and also why I only use "Snap-On" . Come-backs are a pain in the butt !
Just a side note for those who don't like "double clickers" . A good torque wrench will not increase the torque if you double or Triple or more click the wrench. It just clicks. For safety measures I also go back over all the bolts and check them, as do all good mechanics. You never know when you might miss one. Also if the bolt or nut comes to proper torque then "Slips" and go further (kinda grinding when it does it) then the bolt or nut has rust on it and needs to come out and get cleaned up. This happens a lot on big truck lug nuts. In fact I was injured when this happened to me once as I was using the 5ft long 750 ft Ibs torque wrench. I was on the end of the wrench pushing hard when the nut "slipped" causing me to loose my balance and fall. I was at final torque and giving it my all.

 

[frank8003]

Many times I have seen torque wrenches used to "loosen" fasteners in the process of going around all the fasteners in the process of re-torque to specs. For instance three stages with a back off session in the sequence.

Unless specifically designed to go both ways the torque wrench will be driven out of calibration by going backwards. A torque wrench is a calibrated spring, adjustable as springs change value. That is what the calibration certifies that the numbers are as close as design permits.

On another note I can not find anything on torque sticks for lug nuts for the Deuce lugs.
So, under the what the heck is this category, what is this?

It has one end square drive 13/16" and the other end 1-1/2" hex drive for the lug nuts.
It is stamped 5120-493-3152. I thought torque sticks were meant to work with impacts but
this has 3/4" holes for a bar to drive it. I used it on the Deuce lugs.

So, anybody here ever used one of these and have the torque limiting limiter information? Seen one, heard of one? Used one?