Front Axle Encased Axle Seal Replacement

[Jake59]

Hello,

I have a bad front axle encased seal on the left side.
This is the seal which is hidden deep inside the axle tube on the left side and where the left axle runs trough fro the differential to the left front wheel. This part is item 27 SEAL ASM, W/Guide Tube Oil, GM Part 6273977, on pages 389 and 390 of 52D_1984_87_CUCV_Parts_and_Illustration_Catalog.

Can anyone tell me how this seal is replaced?

Do I do this from the wheel side and drive the new seal all the way in there? And if yes, how can I drive this seal in all that way?
Also, how can I pull the old seal out through those approx 2 feet of axle tube?

Or do I need to remove the differential cover and the differential and side bearings to gain access to this seal and to replace?

Your experience is highly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jake

 

[Jake59]

Hi,

Got wise on Youtube...apparently need to pull axles, remove differential and bearings and then drive seal out towards the differential housing; install new seal and reverse installation.
Bummer...

Jake

 

[sneekyeye]

Yeah, that's the problem with those seals. The whole axle needs to come apart. Probably every one of ours needs replacing.

 

[cucvrus]

I removed the front axle from my M1009 and sent it out stripped to a shop and had the seals changed. Cost me $100. to have the seals changed. Of course I took full advantage of the situation and steam cleaned and scrubbed the axle before painting it. Made the entire axle look much better and I replaced the ball joints, calipers, brakes and tie rod ends while I was there. Good Luck. report back on your progress. The differential is a precision fit and mesh internally. I leave my stuff up to experienced people I trust and always seem to get great results. Other may differ and that is fine also. Not my trucks.

 

[85CUCVtom]

On a related note, there was someone here who posted a link to a speciality tool to install the new seals. I don’t know if you need this, but it’s worth asking.

Hopefully someone knows what I’m talking about.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jake59]

Thanks!!
Jake

 

[Jake59]

Hi CUCVRUS,

WOW!! So much dirt coming out of that tube!!!
Mine is quite clean compared to that, but since I need to dismantle the diff all the way, I will also steam clean the hollow tube and use a rust-conversion paint on the inner tubes as well.
Your end-result is very nice tough! Great job!

I'll just have to tackle it all myself; no good US car or truck mechanics here. But that's OK; I had my first chevy when I was 20 and always bolted on all my cars/trucks.
Just last week single handed pulled the exhaust, then drive shaft, then automatic transmission ZF 8 speed, then the front suspension, then the front axles and finally the engine out of my 2011 BMW 525d Xdrive Touring to replace the distribution chains, which are installed on the rear end of the engine, between the engine and the transmission. So it requires to pull the oil pan as well. A dirty job - and heavy at times - especially alone and without a carlift (I only have a 15' x 3' foxhole and a 2T rolling engine crane), but anyone can do it, with a little common sense and a minimum of manuals and torque specs...

And on my CUCV, I need to replace the UJ on the front axle and the ball joints anyways. One side is done and ready for install; will do the other now and then pull the diff and replace the seals etc...
Should not be a problem to press the new seals in; will use a large diameter threaded bar of at least 30cm long with a couple of nuts in the middle and that I can stick into the tubes on both sides; then slip a base plate that rests against the diff housing case on one end and a few suitable large washer(s) about the size of the seal on the other side and then simply press the seal in perfectly straight by bolting the nuts apart; then turn around the setup and press in the other seal.

Thanks for the information!
I will do my best to document my front axle overhaul and post.

Cheers,
Jake