Front axle replacement fun!

[OddballJ]

I would opt for one of the green ones. Note the lugnuts on the studs. The splash shields are a bit tore up but they can be bent back. I doubt that Colemens axles are in any better shape. How far is Kinston from you?

Kinston is less than 2 hours, and I should have 2 perfectly good splash shields from the old axle if they can't be repaired.

 

[OddballJ]

The new Axle has been picked up and unloaded from the back of the pick up (that was a fun one man job =P ) and now i'm ever so slightly stuck. I have the current axle completely unbolted from the springs (that's a 15/16" if anyone was interested) and I have disconnected the drive shaft, but it's still connected by the steering arm. I tried to follow the TM but I don't know what sort of puller they're referring to and I don't know what a connecting rod socket is. (please refer to picture for reference)

I've loosened that nut, but it just turns and turns and turns.
Any advice?

EDIT: If Picture is too small, it's page 8-20 in section 8-10 ( CONNECTING ROD REPLACEMENT) of the -20 TM
http://www.jatonkam35s.com/CUCVTechnicalmanuals/tm9-2320-289-20.pdf

 

[Recovry4x4]

OK, are you using air tools? If so you need to tighten the nut on the bottom of the steering arm. FYI the steering arm is the U shapet item bolted to the left knuckle on the truck. The joint is tapered and needs to be wedged into place so you can get that nut off.

 

[OddballJ]

I'm not using Air tools, but I potentially could get a few tomorrow. What specifically would I need, and why would that be different than using regular tools?

1. Remove 2 cotter pins (2) and nuts (1).

That's where I'm stuck. nut (1) will not come off, but rather spins round and round moving nowhere. Is this what you're saying needs to be tightened first?

 

[motormayhem]

Just swapped in 3/4 ton axles on my son's M1009. Have stock front and rear, If interested, you can PM me. Located in central MS.

You do a D44 and 14 bolt combo? If so you did the same axles and tires as me when I did mine...nice!

Original poster:
You could also try and find a Dana 44 off local craigslist or some other site and install that. It will bolt right in and you can even use the same calipers and not have to bleed the brakes. Everything fits just like a 10 bolt front and the last one I bought I got for $100.

 

[OddballJ]

You do a D44 and 14 bolt combo? If so you did the same axles and tires as me when I did mine...nice!

Original poster:
You could also try and find a Dana 44 off local craigslist or some other site and install that. It will bolt right in and you can even use the same calipers and not have to bleed the brakes. Everything fits just like a 10 bolt front and the last one I bought I got for $100.

well, I just bought a $350 10 bolt and that was the cheapest I could find after a good little bit of searching. Right now, all I want to do is throw that thing up under there and drive my truck for the first time since march

Anyone know what I'm doing wrong getting that number 1 nut off?

 

[ranchhopper]

You need whats called a pickle fork its used for removing the tie rod type of joint if the nut is spinning the ball inside the joint. Take the pickle fork and pound it into the joint to put pressure on the knuckle and it will come loose the fork is tapered to force the tapered stud from the mounting hole go to any parts store and ask for a pickle fork they will know what you need and they are handy to have around.

 

[OddballJ]

You need whats called a pickle fork its used for removing the tie rod type of joint if the nut is spinning the ball inside the joint. Take the pickle fork and pound it into the joint to put pressure on the knuckle and it will come loose the fork is tapered to force the tapered stud from the mounting hole go to any parts store and ask for a pickle fork they will know what you need and they are handy to have around.

I feel like I'm being set up. Very similar to the way I was back in boy scouts when they sent me from camp to camp looking for a left handed tent widget adjuster

I'll head to the parts store in a few minutes and see if I can find myself a pickle fork! Thanks Ranch

 

[OL AG '89]

Pickle Fork, No he needs a can of squelch and a range fan.....
or ask for a ball joint removal tool. It looks like a tuning fork.
Northen Tool sells em cheap, there just dumb iron or cast so no need to pay for branded snap-on or craftsman.
If you're not reusing the ball joint, you can clamp vise into gap to held hold to loosen nut. You will still need to "force" the joint out though...

 

[Recovry4x4]

I'm afraid the pickle fork may not help his current dilemma. I thought I did a second reply but now I don't see it. The taper is already broken free and spinning. You need to seat that back so the taper holds the joint. You may be able to re seat the taper by banging the top with a hammer and a pc of pipe. Look at a pic of a tie rod end and it should all makke a little more sense.

 

[ranchhopper]

Ken he can probably get a jack under it to push up enough pressure to bind it up too.

 

[OddballJ]

As it turns out, that nut had been completely stripped and was just being held on there by the good threads above it. I wedged a falthead screwdriver under it and turned it while that was wedged and it caught new threads and came off.

Now I still need to figure out how to get that joint apart. This is where I use that fork, yes? I don't believe it's actually broken free. the Bolt that the nut was on is still very firmly stuck. I banged on it with a large hammer to no avail...

 

[OL AG '89]

as it turns out, that nut had been completely stripped and was just being held on there by the good threads above it. I wedged a falthead screwdriver under it and turned it while that was wedged and it caught new threads and came off.

Now i still need to figure out how to get that joint apart. This is where i use that fork, yes? I don't believe it's actually broken free. The bolt that the nut was on is still very firmly stuck. I banged on it with a large hammer to no avail...

yep fork it off!!!

 

[OddballJ]

finally forked that part off, totally destroyed the ball joint I think.
Axle 1 is completely removed. Axle 2 is now underneath the truck and needs to be connected. I'm going to need a few new parts to replaces the ones that were in bad shape on the new axle (and a few things like new brake hoses) but I think I'm finally close to having this project done.

Additionally, Axles are heavy! It's been interesting trying to do this by myself.

 

[Recovry4x4]

The first is the worst. It will come much easier now.

 

[OddballJ]

Thanks recovry. If nothing else I'm learning lots. I just wish I could drive the blasted thing from time to time...

 

[acmunro]

Axle swapin

I doubt that Colemens axles are in any better shape.

FWIW the Coleman's M1009 front axle I purchased was still in the wooden crate bolted down.

When changing axles in the past I used a set of those cheapie car moving dollys under the axle. I just bolted a set of x-tra wheels on with no tires. Works good for me and the truck doesn't have to be that high. I have used this method in the dirt, just used a piece of old plywood.

Good luck with your project.

 

[OddballJ]

I've run into a problem trying to reconnect the drive shaft. The yoke of the new axle has 4 holes for the u joint strap kit, and I can't get the bolts turned in them. It seems to flatten the threads of the bolts if I try to force it.

So I either need idea's of how to clean it out, or advice on how to get that yoke off so I can replace it. I'm not sure how to turn a nut off something that turns freely....

 

[Recovry4x4]

Take one of the bolts to the hdwe store and have them match up a tap and tap wrench for you. Make sure there is nothing in the holes and retap them. If you prefer to change the yoke, put the tires on the front, sit it on the ground and lock the hubs. Impact makes it much easier but you can crank it off.

 

[BikerBi11]

personally, I have never used an impact on a yoke. I have heard horror stories of guys chipping pinions and ring gears with the hammering action. I would go for trying to chase the threads with a tap. If the yokes are different, you can match up a u joint to do the cross over to the new yoke. I have to do this on the rears when I change out 10 bolts for Corporate 14 bolts in 1/2 ton conversions. just my . Best of luck!!