Front axle seals and boots stepXstep

[xjrockrawler]

i need to replace mine also... looks good

 

[davey8943]

Any ideas on removing the steering arm from the steering knuckle? I just searched the -20 TM again and can't find any info on this.

OH, and p.s. I was able to borrow a slide hammer at Autozone free of charge. $80 deposit to take it out but refunded in full when I bring it back!

I beat the ever-loving snot out of that sucker every time I take this apart. It seems to be more of a pain in the rear every time I remove it. I think the most effective method was to strike the arm near the connection with the drag link, then drive a chisel under it once a small separation appears.

I would love to hear how others take care of this frustrating step!

I have had better luck with the Advance Auto Parts slide hammer loan-a-tool. This one includes a few attachments that are better for pulling thin sheet metal seals. The black pieces in the upper left of the picture were perfect for pulling the oil seal out of the axle housing.

Buy OTC Rear Axle Puller Set OTC7792 at Advance Auto Parts

Good luck!
Dave

 

[JCKnife]

OK I will try further beating on the steering arm to get it loose.

Another question: on Pg 3 Banshee talks about removing the axle seals. I'll attach his picture. Obviously a big piece is missing but the seals I have are relatively small. Banshee talks about a "retainer." Are the seal and retainer 2 separate pieces? The TM mentions nothing at all about a retainer.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/attach...t-axle-seals-boots-stepxstep-img_0877_162.jpg

AH, ok I found the answer in THIS THREAD.

 

[Clay James]

Yup. You knock the retainer out and then the seal. I used a pipe through the differential to the other side and a few whacks and it was out. Then I took the retainer and put it on the vice and tapped the seal out with a hammer and punch. To put the new seal in I put a bunch of RTV around the inside of the retainer and then used the vice to press it in, turning it and clamping a little more until it was seated. Could have used a punch but I thought the larger surface area of the vice was less likely to damage it.

My seal retainers look a little larger than the one in the picture.

 

[jblack6527]

I had to ask the same question earlier in the thread regarding the steering arm, I had good luck turning the wheels to one side ( don't remember which) and beating the snot out of the bottom of the arm. Soak the tapered bushings liberally in PB blaster or something first.

 

[JCKnife]

Wow, got the steering arm off today. Just lots of turning, twisting, pulling and beating with the BFH.

Tomorrow--the axle seals!

 

[JCKnife]

OK the slide hammer took the seal retainers out easily, but then I found I did not have an item the right size to press the seals out of the retainers (I have an arbor press). But the neighbor's air hammer made quick work of them.

One of the seals looks like it was red loctited in place. Is this necessary or desired? I don't think the other seal had any goo around it.

Just to summarize: in the course of reassembly I will use black RTV gasket maker in 3 areas: in seating the axle seal retainers (with seals already installed), on the spindle when it bolts to the steering knuckle, and then on the outer axle flange (first thing we took off after the wheel).

 

[DieselBob]

OK the slide hammer took the seal retainers out easily, but then I found I did not have an item the right size to press the seals out of the retainers (I have an arbor press). But the neighbor's air hammer made quick work of them.

One of the seals looks like it was red loctited in place. Is this necessary or desired? I don't think the other seal had any goo around it.

Just to summarize: in the course of reassembly I will use black RTV gasket maker in 3 areas: in seating the axle seal retainers (with seals already installed), on the spindle when it bolts to the steering knuckle, and then on the outer axle flange (first thing we took off after the wheel).

You don't need any loctite on the seal to retainer interface. I used #2 permatex on the seal to retainer interface and on the edge of the retainer where it seats into the axle housing. Used gaskets and #2 permatex on the axle flange.

 

[JCKnife]

When it comes to installing the boots themselves, on pg 5 of this very thread Houdel says:

IMPORTANT POINT No. 2: USE A SELF LOCKING NUT ON THE INNER AND OUTER CLAMPS! If the new clamps you bought do not have self locking nuts, go down to your local hardware store and buy locking nuts. If the new clamps have metric threads and you cannot buy a metric locking nut to fit, buy a US (SAE) nut and self locking bolt to replace them. The SAE Bolts will not be the same diameter and length as the metric bolt, so buy the next larger diameter and next longer length SAE bolt. The extra length will not be a problem, but if you buy a shorter bolt it will be a real PITA to get the nut started on the bolt. This is the voice of experience talking! Also, the manual says to bend the bolt after the clamp is secured (presumably to prevent the nut from loosening). DO NOT BEND THE BOLT!. User a self locking nut and it will stay secure. Then if you have to remove the clamp for any reason, you can remove the nut & bolt without a problem.

However, in another thread, Heavysteven experiences torn boots (newly installed) because he did not bend the bolts. Who is right in this matter? And if you do bend the bolt, do you bent it to match the contour of the knuckle?

 

[JCKnife]

Another setback today: local hardware had no 1-3/4" SS screws so I got 1-1/2". Inner clamps went on fine but in attempting to get the outer one on, with channel locks squeezing it, it broke. So now I need to wait on another clamp to get here and probably not going to make it for the parade on 9/15. I'll call the Marines tomorrow and let them know. I will try a post in the proper forum to see if another SS member can fill in for me.

 

[JCKnife]

Sorry to post so many questions in this thread but seems like the place for them. Do the kingpin bushings need any RTV / permatex sealant? Banshee did not mention any and there is no mention of this in my -20 TM. (because, really, there is no word on removing / replacing them that I can find...)

 

[davey8943]

.,.. So now I need to wait on another clamp to get here and probably not going to make it for the parade on 9/15...

JCKnife,

Give SSer "ccequipment" a call. Clinton (ebay store here: M35A2 parts, M809 series 5 ton parts items in C and C Equipment store on eBay! ) is absolutely a blast to do business with. His shop is in Unionville Indiana (which is about 30 minutes west of the Columbus / Bloomington exit on I 65).

He has helped me out many, many times when I have "stopped by" about 6:00 on a weekday, even a couple times on Sunday. I always call and make sure Clinton will be around, but he is easy to work with.

If you don't mind a road trip, head up and pick up your parts. I have never had him ship anything to me, so I can't comment on how fast the shipping is.

I will be heading his way Monday or Wednesday of this week for seals / boots / etc for the M109 as well... If it works out, I can pick up a couple clamps for you and meet you somewhere near the Interstate in Columbus.

Good Luck!
Dave

 

[davey8943]

... Do the kingpin bushings need any RTV / permatex sealant?...

JCKnife,

Did you pull the bushings from their spacer plates? If you are asking about installation of the bushing into the plate, I would use some red loctite during assembly.

If you are asking about sealant between the king pin itself and the bushing... Aboslutely DO NOT use sealant there! The king pin to king bin bushing joint will be greased when you pump that sucker full of grease after assembly.

Glad you are making some progress!

Dave

 

[JCKnife]

Dave,

Thanks for the parts source...I had ordered from Ted's Trucks before and already fired off an e-mail to them about getting a replacement sent.

Yes I have the bushings and the plates out, since I had the steering knuckles entirely off.

Thanks again!

 

[dikwks]

Great thread. It helps to see how some one else did it. Saved the pdf.

 

[JCKnife]

I wouldn't abandon ship that quick on the broken bolt. There is nothing special about the bolts. I don't believe they are even grade 8. A good drill bit, extractor and patience can do wonders. A lot cheaper than a hub, but then again I have more time than money for these things.

Did this yesterday; backing out the broken bolt was so easy, at first I thought the extractor was just spinning and not catching. But it came right out. Had me scratching my head what caused it to break in the first place (I did hit it with PB Blaster but still...it came right out with no fight!).

Thanks again DB.

 

[oddshot]

I'm in the middle of this now ... Thanks for the great thread ...

oddshot

 

[plym49]

Gotta leave the campsite better than you found it, so my one question will be followed by two tips:

Question: If you use zipper boots, can you add grease to the hub from the rear?

Tip 1: If you use the 'shock' method of removing a tapered shank, like a ball joint or whatever, yes use a BFH but remember it is HAMMER AND ANVIL. Use one BFH to strike the one side, but back up the other side with an even bigger BFH. I like to hold the head of a sledge as the anvil, and a 3# sledge as the BFH. Loosen the nut but don't remove it all the way so the parts don't fly apart when the taper lets go. By using hammer and anvil much less abuse gets delivered to the parts. And of course a tie rod tool kills the boots, so I never use one.

Tip #2: When using heat to remove a stuck fastener, forget PB or any other penetrating oil. Use beeswax. Real, authentic beeswax. The wax can stand a higher heat than a penetrating oil and the long long wax molecules slip slide right in between the threads. You will be amazed at how well it works. Normal candle wax also works but not as well as bees wax.

 

[quickfarms]

very informative post

 

[hilber]

Good reading. Thanks for the information guys.