Front end/Rear end Swap

[patracy]

Worse comes to worse, you could install a zero rate in the rear. Course the rear will sit 1" taller then, but it'd give you a little play room if the driveshaft is too long. You could also install a zero rate up front as well.

 

[Mad Texan]

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-135304-dana-spicer-1310-to-1350-conversion-u-joint.html

Here is some info on the u-joint... 1/2 ton to 1ton conversion u-joint.

 

[cucvrus]

Or take the easy way out and just change the broken axle shaft. That was easy. Did I say that out loud? No I typed it. Even worse. OK back to work enough chatter. Stay warm.

 

[patracy]

Nothing wrong with upgrading drivetrain. If I ever own another 1009, it won't be rolling on a set of 10 bolts with a gov-bomb....

 

[PeeWeeQ]

cucvrs....I SWEAR someone suggested that before.....

 

[PeeWeeQ]

Alright--stupid question, but, I don't care--I'm going to ask anyway before I go buy another nut and combo wrench...

What happens if I don't remove the connecting rod from the steering arm? Is it under tension? Is it going to cause problems upon attempting to install the 'new' front end? That is--will I regret it if I don't? Is there a safe and reasonable workaround?

Thanks!

 

[PeeWeeQ]

More stupid than I thought...Soon as I moved to the other side, I realized I didn't even know what I was looking at. Hint--I WASN'T looking at this side.

Learning as I go.... Appreciate your patience...

 

[Cucvnut]

Unbolt the drag link from the steering arm the U shaped arm attached to the axle and use a pickle fork to remove the end link from the arm . they sell new drag links from Moog if you want to replace everything.

 

[NovacaineFix]

More stupid than I thought...Soon as I moved to the other side, I realized I didn't even know what I was looking at. Hint--I WASN'T looking at this side. View attachment 607470

Learning as I go.... Appreciate your patience...

It's okay, we all learn somewhere sometime, none of us, well except me maybe [I kid] was born an expert.


As CUCVNut stated, you'll need a pickle fork to separate them, easier if you have an air hammer fork tool, but and hammer and pickle fork will do. If you don't have a pickle fork, you can either rent one from your local parts store, buy one, they're fairly cheap, os smack the outer housing with a hammer until it pops off, it works sometimes.

None of the steering links should have any torsion or spring pressure just the weight of them will seem like they do. Only the spring shackles and shocks will have pressure, the springs a lot more.
Once they pop loose they should fall away. I usually keep a nut on the end of them to keep them from falling and hitting me or knocking into something else Then when you have your hands free, one hand grab the steering link or what ever it is and the other remove the nut.

 

[Chaski]

Another option is an OTC 6296 or similar tool. That way you don't destroy the boot.

 

[PeeWeeQ]

Thanks guys. All of that is helpful. I've replaced steering components before, but, usually on cars. Some things are the same, some different--some things are the same but with different names...

Anyway, here's where I'm at so far:

1. Removed all of the wheels.
2. All shock absorber bolts attached to front and rear ends removed (decided to order new shocks all around, so, I'll be removing them completely tomorrow).
3. Brake calipers removed and tied out of the way.
4. Both drive shafts disconnected from differentials (bolts removed, anyway).
5. Brake lines disconnected on the rear.
6. Axle vent hoses removed.
7. All U-bolts removed.
8. Got some used 16 inch tires and I'm going to trade my 15" rims for some 8-bolt, 16 inchers with a guy that has a tire machine and is going to do the swap and mount.


Just need to double-check the jack stand support under the frame, separate that connecting rod from the steering arm, and I think I'm ready to drop them both.

I'm also going to clean up and paint the "new" front and rear ends. Makes it all look a little better and hopefully will keep the cancer away for a while....

Am I missing anything? Comments/Suggestions?

Also, I've heard of some guys flipping their leaf springs in front... Is there any merit to this? Will it have any ill effect on my installation? They DO look like they've been installed upside-down...

 

[NovacaineFix]

Not sure on the flipping the spring part, but I could be wrong. I know many sell a spring shackle flip kit which is supposed to convert the springs from tension type to compression type.

ORD is one, there are others.
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/shacklekit.htm

 

[Recovry4x4]

The front springs are designed with that negative arch. I can't imagine what would happen if you flip them.

 

[Westech]

You can NOT flip a leaf spring. How the leafs are stacked if you flip it it will just spread apart and not hold any weight.
if you need more spring install a add a leaf, if you just want need a little more height install a Zero rate lift block.
I installed both a extra stock leaf and a block and got 4 inches of lift on my M1008.

 

[Cucvnut]

Keep the M1009 rims they are becoming rare

 

[Ilikemtb999]

Thanks guys. All of that is helpful. I've replaced steering components before, but, usually on cars. Some things are the same, some different--some things are the same but with different names...

Anyway, here's where I'm at so far:

1. Removed all of the wheels.
2. All shock absorber bolts attached to front and rear ends removed (decided to order new shocks all around, so, I'll be removing them completely tomorrow).
3. Brake calipers removed and tied out of the way.
4. Both drive shafts disconnected from differentials (bolts removed, anyway).
5. Brake lines disconnected on the rear.
6. Axle vent hoses removed.
7. All U-bolts removed.
8. Got some used 16 inch tires and I'm going to trade my 15" rims for some 8-bolt, 16 inchers with a guy that has a tire machine and is going to do the swap and mount.

View attachment 607554View attachment 607555View attachment 607556
Just need to double-check the jack stand support under the frame, separate that connecting rod from the steering arm, and I think I'm ready to drop them both.

I'm also going to clean up and paint the "new" front and rear ends. Makes it all look a little better and hopefully will keep the cancer away for a while....

Am I missing anything? Comments/Suggestions?

Also, I've heard of some guys flipping their leaf springs in front... Is there any merit to this? Will it have any ill effect on my installation? They DO look like they've been installed upside-down...

You didn't mention the parking brake cables. Maybe I missed it but are the spring pads in the correct spot?

 

[Recovry4x4]

Spring pads will line up. Since its a semi floater, it had to have come from a 3/4 ton. This should be a fairly straight forward swap. I swapped axles in my truck last weekend and even moved the Detroit NoSpin from one rear to the other. Took a day!

 

[Ilikemtb999]

Yep seems that way. My 1 ton swap has taken a bit more work.

 

[PeeWeeQ]

I'm almost ready to drop the old stuff out and hoist the new into place...Last night, I warmed up my garage so I could paint the 'new' stuff. Anyway, I'm kind of hung up on the connecting rod/steering arm. The cotter pins on the castle nuts are corroded and won't budge. Any tips or suggestions on how to get by or through this little problem?

I also didn't consider the fact that I am going to need to completely remove the rear drive shaft to switch out the rear u-joint for the 'bastard' one, so, I have that to do yet. Loads of fun in the frozen tundra...

AND, the consensus is still that I will LIKELY be able to just bolt right up, with the new u-joint? What if it doesn't? What's the best course? I did see a few suggestions, but, what's the simplest and least costly? I'm already replacing all the shocks, tie rod ends and sleeve, and that u-joint. I don't want to get too much farther into it, money-wise if it can be avoided. I suppose I'll need an alignment when it's all done as well... More pics to come soon...

 

[cucvrus]

Knock the old tie rod ends out and just go get new ones. get an adjusting sleeve also. That way you have new parts to work with. Also helps make your project more complete.