front tires on M923

[350TacoZilla]

ahh didnt know that about the 14.5's or 365's, seems to me 22.5's would be easier since it wouldn't require any type of wheel modifications.

 

[tobyS]

Yea... but too bad, I wanted to stay military tires, they are rugged for what they cost right now. Going after rim and tire commercially may be big $$$. Or not. I haven't found that combination yet to get quotes.

What is the size tire that you were comparing and have you seen a rev/mile chart for commercial 22.5 tires?

 

[350TacoZilla]

the ones I have are goodyear g286's I believe in 425/65/22.5 and they are almost exact match in height for the G177 11r20's ( I put pics earlier)

I did find the data for you from goodyears website. RPM for G286 425's is 470 and 11r20 G177's is 478, also worth noting though is my 425's have been worn a bit and then regrooved so they are bit shorter than new ones.

 

[tobyS]

I still have this question....can the M35A3 (metric) wheel be drilled for 10 lug use on a 5 ton or does it have to be re-centered?

 

[98G]

I still have this question....can the M35A3 (metric) wheel be drilled for 10 lug use on a 5 ton or does it have to be re-centered?

Looking at an an M35A3 rim and looking at a 10lug 5ton rim, it looks to me like it'd need recentering.

 

[gringeltaube]

I still have this question....can the M35A3 (metric) wheel be drilled for 10 lug use on a 5 ton or does it have to be re-centered?

1) The diameter of the flat surface on the inside seems to be 13.5", which would be acceptable for a typical 5-ton hub. (You will have to confirm both dimensions since I don't have either one at hand, here.)

2) Re-drilling to 10-on-11.25" is possible but on four of the ten holes the chamfered area will interfere with the existing chamfer on the A3 pattern.
I made this drawing to exact scale, where you can see the problem areas. Right side is how the modified center would look like. As you can see there is very little material left, inward of those 4 holes.


Still not that bad, I believe. It all depends on your application of course. I would give it a try...



Edit to add:
It just occurred to me that you could eventually make this a "hub-centric" wheel and use the corresponding lug nuts.
I would just check the hub to be concentric, where the wheel center comes to rest. Whatever that diameter was, the wheel's pilot hole needs to be 1 mm larger.
Going this route, the 10 holes could be of a much smaller diameter (say Ø 7/8", max.) and you won't need any chamfering at all.
And it looks so much better, with approx. 3/8" left between closest holes.

 

[tobyS]

Thanks G....that is exactly what I was after. I was about to go get out the compass. Application is M929 front with 14.5 steer tires, 11.00 on rear.

I don't like that close relationship myself. Not on a dump anyway.

Just to confirm, there isn't another 20" metric rim that fits the 5 ton 11.25 bc, is there? How would you get the 14.5 on a 5 ton?

 

[gringeltaube]

............
Just to confirm, there isn't another 20" metric rim that fits the 5 ton 11.25 bc, is there? How would you get the 14.5 on a 5 ton?

None that I know of...


Here is what I did with a set of FMTV wheels, to be able to fit the Conti MPT81:


Besides modified bead flanges, these wheels also needed a different center (10-on-335mm).
Not in your case, though.

 

[tobyS]

Nice job on welding. How did you make the piece that was welded on? Did you get any heat distortion? Was it part of what you cut off, cut down? I thought R3 was different too. That looks like a lot of work x2 (both sides). Could the same modification be made to a combat wheel that already has the right bolt circle?

 

[gringeltaube]

Nice job on welding. How did you make the piece that was welded on? Was it part of what you cut off, cut down?

Yes, cut a slice off of the original lip (~7mm wide), cut that ring open, slightly curved it to the lesser diameter and then just tack-welded in place after shortened. Create a nice deep welding groove on the inner side, then the same on the outer, making sure you get 100% penetration. Not difficult at all if you have adequate tools.

Did you get any heat distortion?

Not really.

I thought R3 was different too.

Correct; the original wheel is- or should be an 8mm radius. And since for the MPT, d2 is a tad smaller too (1.6mm), it allows one to remove some material at the high spots and greatly reduce the possible run-out, that way.

Could the same modification be made to a combat wheel that already has the right bolt circle?

Yes, of course.

That looks like a lot of work x2 (both sides).

Well, it takes some time and patience, but the results are worth it. As you can see in this short video...
https://youtu.be/BDmHLUr_w-A
.... those wheels came out pretty nice and round (as if turned on the lathe...), so the mounted tires also ran true, with almost zero runout.
(BTW, what is wrong with "lots of work" if you have a good customer paying for it all...?)