You can measure all the alignment parameters yourself using a tape measure and a carpenter's level.
Toe-in: Measure distance between tires behind the axle and front of the axle at axle height. Should be less than 1/8 inch.
Camber: Hold a carpenter's level vertically agains the outside of the tire letting it touch the lower portion. Measure distances between level and the wheel at top and bottom. Calculate difference. Use trig to figure angle. About 1 degree.
Caster: Clamp the level to the bumper and measure the distances from the king pin bearings to it (top and bottom). use trig again to calculate the angle. Should be the same for both wheels, about 4 degrees.
Leaf springs have built-in damping (never lube leaf springs) and the shocks only damp higher frequency vibrations, that's why they can be small and none used in the rear.
The cupping of the front tires is also caused by the coupling of the rear axles. There is no interaxle differential between the two rear axles and resist the turning effort of the front wheels. It's okay off-road, but on dry pavement it causes the front tires to scuff in every turn.
Remove the interaxle propeller shaft for much less scuffing and smaller turnng radius (will reduce it by about 5 feet). See article in MVM issue #105, Oct 2004 for more on this.
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Bjorn
MVPA 19212
1968 M49A2C modified. 1972 HIAB 765A crane and 1960 M756 pipeline truck bed.
11.00-20 NDCC singles.
M103A3 trailer.
"Some things cannot be made better, just differently"
CURRENTLY WORKING ON: Vehicle wiring, adding relays for headlights and turn signals.
Adding small fuel tank (starting and shutting down in cold weather) and installing heating coil in main tank for biodiesel/cooking oil.
