Front winch tensioning

[charlesmann]

I tried the search function before posting and couldnt find what i was looking for.

I am trying to put drag tension on the front winch, to prevent rat nesting the cable as i free spool it.
The tm says to turn clockwise to apply tension. I turned till it wouldnt turn anymore and still no tension being applied to the drum.
I pulled the tensioner out and it looks like a drain plug with a 1/4”-3/8” long stem in the center used to push against the drum or a plunger that pushes against the drum.

Anyone have an idea of the internals for the drum tensioning system?

 

[Karl kostman]

Charlesman its been awhile since I messed with Deuce winch but if you look at the winch or better yet get a schematic of the winch there should be a disk in the winch that you have a brake band over and that is what actually puts tension on the drum, there is no direct contact to the drum only on the brake band. That brake band has to be installed the correct way so that when the drum is being pulled out the band engages and stops the drum rotation. If this band is installed backwards it will NOT ever tighten. It needs to be hooked a certain way and there should be a spring on it to provide constant tension then you tighten or loosen up that nut to set brake engagement tension. Go through the TMs on this site and it should tell you all.

 

[G744]

Other than the hydraulic motor, a 900-series winch doesn't look any different than that on the older 5-tons.

That drum drag doesn't do very much, if at all.

A level wind attachment like that found on the wrecker will keep the cable tight when winding in. A pricey bit of kit, that.

Before I got that added to my M54, I either used my pickup with the E-brake partially pulled to act as some resistance, or drug an old tire/wheel to do it.

Winching is best done with two people, one in the cab, the other on the ground. Good hand signals between the two of you is a good idea.

DG

 

[charlesmann]

Charlesman its been awhile since I messed with Deuce winch but if you look at the winch or better yet get a schematic of the winch there should be a disk in the winch that you have a brake band over and that is what actually puts tension on the drum, there is no direct contact to the drum only on the brake band. That brake band has to be installed the correct way so that when the drum is being pulled out the band engages and stops the drum rotation. If this band is installed backwards it will NOT ever tighten. It needs to be hooked a certain way and there should be a spring on it to provide constant tension then you tighten or loosen up that nut to set brake engagement tension. Go through the TMs on this site and it should tell you all.

According to the tm, what you are describing, sounds like the load holding brake.
Is the brake directly inline with the motor/input shaft?
If so, according to the tm, it is the load holding brake. I need to order some brake material from mcmast carr and replace it. When i opened the cover, the material had slipped the rivets and some of it balled up at the adjustment bolt.

The tm does talk about the drum brake to prevent the drum from “running away” when free spooling. The adjustment point is in a pain in the arse location to adjust, and is on the driven side/driver side and at the bottom of the winch.


@G744

I do have a level winder, but im referring to free spooling and the cable rat nesting.

As for having two people during winch operations, yes, you are right. But when you are a one man band, that sec person isnt always around.
As an option, i plan to put a valve in the cab and one at the front bumper, so i can operate inside or outside the cab. The down side is, if the cable brakes and operating at the bumper, i an in the line of fire.

As with the load holding brake material needing replacement, maybe the same goes for the drum brake. Since i have to split the winch to access the drum brake or buy it from eastern surplus, i also have seals that need to be replaced.