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FS-2500 Bypass Oil Filter - Great Idea or Snake Oil

m35a2cowner

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Columbus, Ohio
oil filter

I, like everyone else, likes to keep cost down. So what about going to the friendly neighborhood truck wrecking yard and buying a used (I have heard them referred to as a Lube-a-finer(sp?) Unit and installing that? After all, its pretty much a housing with a couple of hoses, what's to wear out? I can understand the comment about high milage and wether its worth it or not, but what about low milage? Short trips are harder on engine oil than longer trips. Also, if you have a low milage "parade truck" it might be a long time before it builds up the miles to where one would consider changing (unless one is paying for oil analysis from time to time) the oil. Just my 2 cents.
 

houdel

Active member
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Chase, MI
RE: oil filter

Not too shabby an idea, you'd just have to know which model Luber-finer you are dealing with, a some models are full flow units and some are bypass units, and then figure out what filters are available for that unit. Problem is trying to find a HD truck boneyard around here. Guess I'll have to do some searching, I'm in a pretty rural area, the nearest "big" cities, population 15-20,000 are about 35 miles away, its about 65 miles to a true big city, which may have a truck boneyard.
 

steakman

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Lee.

Yea I'm a neub here...but not with diesels nor with bypass filtration.

Excuse my temerity on commenting on this isssue: I own an '06 lbz duramx. Since purchase this spring as a lease back at 34,500 miles, I have done the following mods that pertain to this discussion. Blocked the Exhaust Gas Recircluation - (no need for exgtra crap in my intake). Bought and installed a Stanadyne FM100 Secondary Fuel filtration system w. a 5mU filter. Bought and installed FS2500 bypass fitlration system with nominal 2 mU filter cartridge.

Just so y'all don't think I work for these guys, I am a sales rep for ESAB Welding & Cutting Products based in Calgary and do Southern Ab and Interior of BC. check it out.

As such: I have found that by blocking the EGR and using the FS: my oil stays brown (dark - very dark yes, but not the INKY Octocpus BLACK normally seen after just 1000km..!!), for up to 10,000km. NO B$ hit there boys. This thing works and works well. The cratridges are not cheap - I buy from the US (tim@accuratediesel.com - $23.50USD ea), as opposed to up here in Canada (49.50CAD ea) - 'bout dbl the price here.!! Typically I have changed them at 15,000 km but now believe that after Oil analysis I can go much longer without compromising the oils ability to perform. Next change will be @ 20,000km.

I change my own oil at home in the garage. Doing the FS is no major deal. Very little oil is or comes gushing out when I do a change, particularly after draining the pan first. Expect to add at least a quart (about 1 Litre) to the oil change to fill the cartridge and lines.

For me it was a no brainer. I want my lbz motor to last 1,000,000 kilometers. I read some serious threads at dieselplace.com where some quite a few of the guys have oil bypass systems: either Amsoil ro FS or some other set up. All seem to work so based on what I read, I bougth one and have absolutely no regrets since. Catch me at dieselplace.com - you are all welcome there and I believe that your forums insight into diesels may well prove interesting to many of our members.

FWIWorth: Cdn Military - Comm Research 1970 -1973 (long enough to know what wuz up) - no regrets eh.

Cheers,

stk
 

cranetruck

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Welcome to the site and thanks for the invitation to dieselplace.com!
I also believe in the bypass filter system and have one installed on one of my trucks (no real engine hours yet, though).
Do you have before and after oil analysis reports? Wonder if trapping wear metal particles in the bypass filter will give a "false" report if they don't show up on the lab test....what size are they anyway, the particles......? Perhaps the bypass filter element should be analyzed.....
 

steakman

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Ya know my info on partuculate size is that they tend to be anything the OEM fuilter won't capture...I am thinking smaller than 30 mU. Yet big enought to do damage as I have learend. Seems that it is the 5 - 10 mU that are the real issue.? This bypass also seem to remove whatever effects the diesel "soot" has on the oil as well. Maybe that is because of the EGR block as well - I am just not sure. the filter element is 2 mU.

I do not have "before" reports..and that is my dumb mistake as It is something I thought about later...how the heck can ya compare when ya got nothing to compare to.! it never dawned on me at the time. What i did get was that after 15,000km (which is for me 3 times my normal interval), the oil showed it was in as good a condition as when I put it in the first place...(colour and comparing it to non sec filtrated oil after 5k) (that was in June). Last change I did not get it analysed as I used 2 diff types of oil ( what I had in the garage at the time)...but suffice to say it looked good just from an observations standpoint.

the comments in our forum has been that under 5 mU the particles will pass by athe rings and other lubricating surfaces without any damage..it is those that are larger and can get between said surfaces that are the problem.

BTW: if the oil when analyzed is devoid of particulates which I kinda doubt as there has to be some there, then that would be a good thing ..no..??

It will be a while before I get my oil analyzed again...but I will post the results. I'm already 4000k on new change (both OEM and FS filters), drive about 5-6K a month so in about 2 months or earlier I will have a full report and I'll post it here. at the 20K mark.



cheers,

stk
 

Albin

Member
118
3
18
Location
TN
I have the Amsoil BK-11 single filter mount; right now it's on it's third vehicle. For my PSD F-350, I use the EaPB-100 bypass filter, which is the mid sized BP filter that Amsoil has. I use the Oilguard oil filter and oil filler caps to interface with the 6.0l engine.

Bypass filters work and work well, whether it's longer oil changes, cleaner oil or any combination in between. As the cited INL study above stated, engine oil analysis is almost mandatory for longer oil changes. I change my PSD oil every 10K for warranty purposes, even though I use synthetic oil also.

For more info on bypass oil filters, with all major brands represented (Amsoil, Oilguard, Franz etc.): http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=34&page=1

Also, I would NOT use that Amsoil BK-13 dual filter mount, the one that incorporates a full flow oil filter with a bypass filter. In order to get oil to go through the bypass filter, there is a restrictor on the full flow filter - not a good design feature in my mind.

Good luck.

Al
 

Richardjc

New member
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0
Frantz oil filter

Djfreema said:
Any body familiar with the Frantz bypass filtration system. It uses toilet paper rolls as the filter. I work with a guy that swears by them and I am considering getting one. The company name might have changed but Ebay has NOS Frantz available for $104.
I have used the Frantz oil Filter from when they first came out. I have one on a Michigan Tractor Shovel Model 55A. The oil is dark but clean.
 
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