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Ft Campbell and new 1078

Ue413

Member
205
2
16
Location
Springfield, Missouri
This MV stuff is clearly an addiction....and just got my monthly fix out of fort Campbell. 1995 with a little over 11k miles, and won it "accidentally".

any advice on these trucks? What is a general problem area that needs to be addressed? (Like the fuel line on m923's)

i see flat towing is somewhat limited without driveshaft removal....what if it was flat towed in neutral with engine running? (Need to pick up solo)
 

dalej

Member
94
5
8
Location
Blue Hill Nebraska
Congrats!! Check all the fluids. The hubs are one thing I didn't know. I kept feeling the hubs for heat and they were good. Make sure you know how to use the lights, you'll need turns and brakes.
 

dalej

Member
94
5
8
Location
Blue Hill Nebraska
No, just need oil. Some have heard of the hubs with no oil and ruined them but it's rare. Are you driving it home? Just check for any heat build up.
 

Doug Roberts

Member
285
4
18
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
yeah the hubs will run dry , add some gear oil , and Will is right ... you'll need to pull F&R driveshafts . Confirm you have all the door parts ( as represented ). Door locks ect are hard to come by , but I saw some for sale today , expensive
 

dalej

Member
94
5
8
Location
Blue Hill Nebraska
What is the distance you would have to tow it? You could always stop every 10-20 or so and start the truck and put it in drive and reverse a few times and push and pull a distance of 10-20 feet and move the transmission oil. Just a thought, I wouldn't tow it, there is a lot of money in a rebuilt transmission.
 

Lmtv772

Banned
651
18
0
Location
Florida
I have a transmission but we are asking $3k for it. I've seen another one for 6.000 on a auction site that gives you an idea of pricing.
Driveshaft u-joints are a lot cheaper.
 

Lmtv772

Banned
651
18
0
Location
Florida
If driveshafts are disconnected, I'm okay to tow the ~350 miles to home?
Correct. Getting them out is a pain. Douse everything with pb blaster
-get a large sledge hammer, a wooden board to protect the shaft. Unbolt the cups. Take out the grease fittings or they will snap off (ask me how I know). Have the shafts line up left and right , it makes hitting the right spot easier. Hit close to the joint but not on the joint.
 

Ue413

Member
205
2
16
Location
Springfield, Missouri
Lmtv772.....that was why I was avoiding drive shaft removal....I read your thread and figured I'd be at fort Campbell so long trying to drop them, I'd be enlisted!��
 

Ue413

Member
205
2
16
Location
Springfield, Missouri
Yep....that one I can handle....it's the corrosion and hammer action that has me hesitant. I guess worse case, I cannot drop them and I periodically stop to disconnect , drive and keep all the bearings happy
 

marchplumber

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,836
2,935
113
Location
Peoria, Illinois
Good luck on your recovery! Seems you might have caught the "bug". LOL I would probably at least look at drive shafts and see it they are "pullable".....Rubber side down, painted side don't steer worth a darn!
 

Ue413

Member
205
2
16
Location
Springfield, Missouri
Thanks for the heads up..... Do they move drive able trucks around with the loader? My last pick-up at fort Riley never saw the loader within a couple hundred yards of my truck.
 
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