Fuel delivery issue M1123 ,Crank no start .....help?!

[Mogman]

That screen should not be serviced in the field, ONLY if you were positive it was plugged and as a final hail Mary should you remove that screen, if you are getting fuel into the body of the pump that screen is not what is keeping your truck from running.
It is almost impossible in the field to be sanitary enough to assure something/anything does not get behind that screen, and if it does ether the pump or an injector will fail.

 

[Maxjeep1]

That screen should not be serviced in the field, ONLY if you were positive it was plugged and as a final hail Mary should you remove that screen, if you are getting fuel into the body of the pump that screen is not what is keeping your truck from running.
It is almost impossible in the field to be sanitary enough to assure something/anything does not get behind that screen, and if it does ether the pump or an injector will fail.

I opened up the rear injectors and cranked it over a few times and I’m not getting fuel to come out. I don’t know how long it should take. I will let the starter rest awhile and I will try it again. I don’t know what’s going on inside the pump but with it spinning it seems like I should get a little bit of fuel to come out. 83 miles on pump but it sat since 2014.

 

[Mogman]

Try busting a couple injector lines loose at the pump, you will see fuel there faster than at the injector.
Also you could remove the return fitting from the top of the pump (again now that you put it back together) and make sure you still have fuel coming out of there, sometimes the fuel pump/IP does not make enough pressure to overcome the check valve in that fitting at cranking speed, if you have fuel coming out of the return then you are getting fuel into the IP
Might try a couple of light love taps with the run switch on to the IP

 

[Maxjeep1]

Try busting a couple injector lines loose at the pump, you will see fuel there faster than at the injector.
Also you could remove the return fitting from the top of the pump (again now that you put it back together) and make sure you still have fuel coming out of there, sometimes the fuel pump/IP does not make enough pressure to overcome the check valve in that fitting at cranking speed, if you have fuel coming out of the return then you are getting fuel into the IP
Might try a couple of light love taps with the run switch on to the IP

I took a fuel injector line off of ip and I didn’t get a drop. I put clear hose on return line and didn’t get anything to come out. I had fuel coming out of the filter but not now. I will remove the check valves by the tank and I will also remove the fuel filter canister and take a look inside. I had already worked my from back to front and I was good to go. I had it on the run position and I unplugged the 54a plug or whatever it is and I can hear fuel switch open and close.

 

[Mogman]

Well now you have something to troubleshoot, this could be a good thing!

 

[Maxjeep1]

Well now you have something to troubleshoot, this could be a good thing!

Weird because I had a working system and fuel coming out of return line… I will have to start over but maybe ip is ok.. thanks for your help! I watched a really good video and it had a cutaway ip and you can see how it works. Not really a lot going on in there

 

[Milcommoguy]

Well now you have something to troubleshoot, this could be a good thing!

Lately pumps fails seem to be on the rise. The injector pump on the outside looks simple. Fuel in... fuel out at the right amount, right place and time. Yep, you know that. Most operators remove and replace. First timers not a lot of fun. Old timers...here we go again.

Trucks having been stored in who knows what conditions...precision parts can get gummed up. Before throwing the wenches take a look at the internal working. Here is a good utube to get inside of the goings on>

DB-XX pumps all work about the same and a better understanding of the process might save a headache and $$$ . Don't have to spread it all over the work bench, But you will have to get up in there checking some of the obvious bit. A good solvent or injector cleaner may just loosen gummed parts. Five bucks is better that 500 plus.

Patience and understanding are free. And there IS A LOT going on in there. LOL

Be the fuel, and follow along. CAMO

Here's another, if it doesn't put one to sleep. There are many to learn from.

And another, I'am done >

 

[Maxjeep1]

Lately pumps fails seem to be on the rise. The injector pump on the outside looks simple. Fuel in... fuel out at the right amount, right place and time. Yep, you know that. Most operators remove and replace. First timers not a lot of fun. Old timers...here we go again.

Trucks having been stored in who knows what conditions...precision parts can get gummed up. Before throwing the wenches take a look at the internal working. Here is a good utube to get inside of the goings on>

DB-XX pumps all work about the same and a better understanding of the process might save a headache and $$$ . Don't have to spread it all over the work bench, But you will have to get up in there checking some of the obvious bit. A good solvent or injector cleaner may just loosen gummed parts. Five bucks is better that 500 plus.

Patience and understanding are free. And there IS A LOT going on in there. LOL

Be the fuel, and follow along. CAMO

Here's another, if it doesn't put one to sleep. There are many to learn from.

That first video was the one that I watched and it was really good and helped me to understand what’s going on in there. I will start over tomorrow. I did put some transmission fluid in the ip and cranked it over hoping it might give a good cleaning.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

That first video was the one that I watched and it was really good and helped me to understand what’s going on in there. I will start over tomorrow. I did put some transmission fluid in the ip and cranked it over hoping it might give a good cleaning.

if You have done your basic fuel delivery checks and no fuel to injector, the pump needs replacement, you just have to
figure out how much time to waste as opposed to using the same amount of time removing the old pump And installing the new one, the Pumps as you can can clog quite easily from old fuel and especially from alga, many times even if you get it running, the engine doesn’t run good because there are still areas of the pump that are contaminated…everything has to be perfect inside the pump, these all mechanical pumps IMO are an amazing mechanical marvel.

 

[Maxjeep1]

if You have done your basic fuel delivery checks and no fuel to injector, the pump needs replacement, you just have to
figure out how much time to waste as opposed to using the same amount of time removing the old pump And installing the new one, the Pumps as you can can clog quite easily from old fuel and especially from alga, many times even if you get it running, the engine doesn’t run good because there are still areas of the pump that are contaminated…everything has to be perfect inside the pump, these all mechanical pumps IMO are an amazing mechanical marvel.

See that’s the weird thing. I had verified fuel all the way to the ip and out of the return with a clear hose on it. Yesterday I was not getting fuel to the ip. I don’t know when that changed. I need to have everything working right before I change ip because I don’t want to kill it

 

[TNDRIVER]

He is getting fuel into the IP so that screen is not plugged. I do not recommend messing with it unless you have to as any contamination gets past the screen will wreck the pump.

My guess was "restricted" not quite plugged. Enough fuel to see but not enough to run, same with the filters.

 

[Mogman]

My guess was "restricted" not quite plugged. Enough fuel to see but not enough to run, same with the filters.

If the IP is getting enough fuel to fill the housing it has enough fuel to run, at least to start anyway.

 

[Maxjeep1]

If the IP is getting enough fuel to fill the housing it has enough fuel to run, at least to start anyway.

I’m no longer getting fuel out of the return line. I put a clear line on it so I can see the fuel.
RWH is 100% right about the bad ip. I don’t have the 2,100 right now so I don’t mind playing with it a little bit

 

[Milcommoguy]

I’m no longer getting fuel out of the return line. I put a clear line on it so I can see the fuel.
RWH is 100% right about the bad ip. I don’t have the 2,100 right now so I don’t mind playing with it a little bit

Maybe time to back up and verify fuel flow and pressure feeding the pump. Real numbers / data.

I got lost in the poking around, this and that, CAMO

Happy Fathers and HumV day,

 

[Mogman]

I’m no longer getting fuel out of the return line. I put a clear line on it so I can see the fuel.
RWH is 100% right about the bad ip. I don’t have the 2,100 right now so I don’t mind playing with it a little bit

Remove the return fitting out of the top of the IP and see if you have fuel coming out then. are you sure you are getting fuel TO the IP?
while you have the fitting out you can blow some air through it (from the threaded end) to be sure that check valve is not stuck or plugged, the check ball is glass so you should be able to see a little light coming through it.

 

[Maxjeep1]

Remove the return fitting out of the top of the IP and see if you have fuel coming out then. are you sure you are getting fuel TO the IP?
while you have the fitting out you can blow some air through it (from the threaded end) to be sure that check valve is not stuck or plugged, the check ball is glass so you should be able to see a little light coming through it.

I pulled the supply line off of the filter canister and it had enough pressure on it to squirt a stream past the turbo. This was with switch in stop position

 

[TNDRIVER]

I pulled the supply line off of the filter canister and it had enough pressure on it to squirt a stream past the turbo. This was with switch in stop position

New to you truck...... start at go..... eyeball in the tank...one way valves in the fuel lines.... fuel filter and housing.... if it then pumps the correct amount of fuel "past" the fuel filter (squirts don't count) time for a pump overhaul. PIA but you will be happier in the long run. My 2 cents.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Checking fuel flow from the fuel filter outlet to the IP is the first and only step you need to do to verify that all is good down stream…just use a jar and a quick crank, after that, all TS is at the pump.
getting fuel out of the top of the pump drainback nipple is common place, you will always get fuel as long as the
lines are clear to the inlet, it’s all the other areas of the inner workings of the pump that you can’t see that are the problem, the biggest issue I see is the broken plunger shaft run off the cam….I just had a truck with a broken woodruff key on the cam shaft, so make sure the timing gear is even rotating when you crank the truck, next up is to make sure the plungers are even rotating inside the pump, so pull the cover and verify that, if not, broken shaft.

 

[Maxjeep1]

Checking fuel flow from the fuel filter outlet to the IP is the first and only step you need to do to verify that all is good down stream…just use a jar and a quick crank, after that, all TS is at the pump.
getting fuel out of the top of the pump drainback nipple is common place, you will always get fuel as long as the
lines are clear to the inlet, it’s all the other areas of the inner workings of the pump that you can’t see that are the problem, the biggest issue I see is the broken plunger shaft run off the cam….I just had a truck with a broken woodruff key on the cam shaft, so make sure the timing gear is even rotating when you crank the truck, next up is to make sure the plungers are even rotating inside the pump, so pull the cover and verify that, if not, broken shaft.

I watched the shaft spin where the rotor or veins and the location where you turn up the fuel. Must be plugged where fuel comes in and all of those small passages. I will have to pull it off. I dread pulling the intake and probably turbo and I will need some sort of special shaped wrench to get those 3 nuts off. I read the removal process in TM and it doesn’t go into much detail of what else needs to come off before you get to the pump. Thanks for all of the input and helping me work thru my denial

 

[Mogman]

I watched the shaft spin where the rotor or veins and the location where you turn up the fuel. Must be plugged where fuel comes in and all of those small passages. I will have to pull it off. I dread pulling the intake and probably turbo and I will need some sort of special shaped wrench to get those 3 nuts off. I read the removal process in TM and it doesn’t go into much detail of what else needs to come off before you get to the pump. Thanks for all of the input and helping me work thru my denial

Have you removed the return FITTING yet?