• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

fuel filter change

gcbennet

Member
221
7
18
Location
Trenton, ON
There's a steel piston on the bottom of the IP that wears the casing wall and allows fuel to bypass. I took all of my injectors and the pump into a local shop to have them inspected and tested and every one of the injectors failed the test, one even having a broken spring inside which allowed the fuel to constantly flow through. I opted to have them rebuilt vice replaced since I know the local business will stand by their work 110% unlike many vendors online. I had the pump completely rebuilt as well once it was demonstrated to be a prime example of the common piston-wearing-the-casing issue. The fix so I'm told is to ream the housing and install a larger dia piston.
 

NormB

Well-known member
1,220
72
48
Location
Cloverly,MD
I think this is what you're looking for [page 2, talks about how to properly bleed the filter]: http://psmag.radionerds.com/images/1/1f/PS_Magazine_Issue_596_July_2002.pdf I had to go to the PS Mag DoD website, bring up the index (first 1990-1999, then the 2000+ index) and ran a search in it for "fuel filter." Wrote down the various issues and pages that were in the list, then I just flipped through those issues until I found it. There's many more articles out there about the filters and different sub-topics. I may have overlooked if there were a good one about how to more easily disassemble it for replacement.
PS Magazine. Man, it's been a long time.

I'd gone to that site once and couldn't quite figure out how to navigate it, I'll give it another try.

Meanwhile, I hope you didn't lose any sleep over this (sounds like you did).

Thank you, a lot.

Norm
 

diesel dave

Active member
129
38
28
Location
north central pa
What Gordon said. Mine wasn't leaking,but the piston had become corroded due to water accumulating in the valley because the drain hole was plugged. But it caused poor performance/ low power. Rebuild cost $ 425. Runs great now.
 

tage

Active member
679
68
28
Location
LOS ANGELES / CALIFORNIA
PS Magazine. Man, it's been a long time.

I'd gone to that site once and couldn't quite figure out how to navigate it, I'll give it another try.

Meanwhile, I hope you didn't lose any sleep over this (sounds like you did).

Thank you, a lot.

Norm

Picture perfect memory from a 2002 article. 15 years (now 17 years ago).


The lack of respect from your post is incredible.
Thanks to fox paws for searching that for us.

I'll take your apology in a pm.
 

NormB

Well-known member
1,220
72
48
Location
Cloverly,MD
Picture perfect memory from a 2002 article. 15 years (now 17 years ago).
The lack of respect from your post is incredible.
Thanks to fox paws for searching that for us.
I'll take your apology in a pm.
Where the heck did THIS come from.

No apology needed. No disrespect implied, indicated nor intimated
in OP.

I was clearly thanking him for his time and trouble finding what I couldn’t.

Reading comprehension is fundamental to civil online discourse.

Norm.
 

McSpeed

Well-known member
333
293
63
Location
Palmer, AK
I changed mine not long after purchase. It is awkward to reach in and access things, but pretty straight forward. I was NOT able to get the bleeder screw to open as there is no good access to it. So, I pulled the rubber line clamp loose coming out of the filter housing and let it bleed there. It takes a long crank time and a big mess to bleed it out and get it to start.

If I do it again, I'll put a different bleeder or T off the line to make it bleed best.
 

NormB

Well-known member
1,220
72
48
Location
Cloverly,MD
I changed mine not long after purchase. It is awkward to reach in and access things, but pretty straight forward. I was NOT able to get the bleeder screw to open as there is no good access to it. So, I pulled the rubber line clamp loose coming out of the filter housing and let it bleed there. It takes a long crank time and a big mess to bleed it out and get it to start.

If I do it again, I'll put a different bleeder or T off the line to make it bleed best.
I have a pair of small - like 5” - vise grip pliers. Got ‘em as a set. The rounded ones hold the damper control rod in place on my fireplace insert - ‘cause we kept forgetting to close it once the box got up to operating temp - the other, more like a pair of needle-nose pliers I use around the garage for things like getting a solid grip on small nearly inaccessible screw heads and as a third hand to hold nuts behind firewalls while I loosen bolts (and vice-versa).

Did that with my bleeder screw then replaced o-ring while I changed the filter.

I remember the filter looked clean, no algae, very little rust, no water- NG records said truck was turned in with 37k miles on it - but I replaced it all anyway . Cheap insurance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
PS Magazine. Man, it's been a long time.

I'd gone to that site once and couldn't quite figure out how to navigate it, I'll give it another try.

Meanwhile, I hope you didn't lose any sleep over this (sounds like you did).

Thank you, a lot.

Norm
6 years later.... this is a gem of advice. Thanks so much for sharing, if your still on this forum.
I used this today and worked like a champ.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks