fuel filter mod w/pix but still not running!

[kapnklug]

Just installed this Goldenrod filter system. The gauge on the left tells the pressure from between the electric fuel pump and the filter, and the petcock on top is for bleeding or transfer of fuel. The element is a 10 micron water-block.
When I put this together, the truck would run for about 10 minutes then lose power and quit. I suspected the stock #80 filter base was sucking air, so I replaced it with this.
At least with the new setup I can see whats going on: the filter housing gradually accumulates air until it goes into the engine and it stalls.
So my question is: from the brand-new tank-pickup, thru a 3/8" hose, to a plastic prefilter, then electric pump, how is air getting in there? If there was a pinhole after the pump it would leak, not suck, right? Cannot figure out how air is getting to that filter!$#!$#!
PS The tank is half full

 

[Barrman]

Check the metal lines running along the engine valley between the pump and the filter for rust holes. Check al the metal lines from the tank up actually.

 

[rod]

Could it be that the peacock valve in the picture is closed? I believe the valve handle should be aligned with the tubing line when it is open. It looks almost closed in the pictures.

Could be starving for fuel.

 

[firstcucv]

i am not that experienced with this stuff but i do know that thows spring type valves are a no no around hear. i would switch it for a reguler ball valve and see if thats where the air is comeing from.

 

[rod]

i am not that experienced with this stuff but i do know that thows spring type valves are a no no around hear. i would switch it for a reguler ball valve and see if thats where the air is comeing from.

Good Point !!!!!

 

[kapnklug]

Thanx for the suggestions, but...
The valve is on the OUTLET side of the filter unit, on a T with the supply to the engine. That's why it is closed, it is for bleeding air or transfer of fuel.
Air is accumulating INSIDE the filter bowl, ahead of this valve, meaning it is coming from the supply to the filter unit.
What's got me stumped is:
with a brand-new fueltank pickup assembly, then short 3/8" fuel line to brand-new electric pump, how can it possibly be getting air into the line? (yes I've checked the clamps a million times already!)
If there were a leak after the electric pump and before the filter unit, I'd expect it to drip since the pump produces (on the gauge) 10+ PSI. No drips anywhere, just air building up inside the filter housing.
Thought I was good at this stuff, but this one's really got me stumped.

 

[M1008driver]

I am researching this as it is kind of intriguing.

when you buy a filter there should be a new oring with it. but the cap sucking air can cause it

Most likely the water sensor in the bottom of your fuel filter is too tight. I've fixed dozens of dmaxes with this problem simply by changing the filter, water sensor, and properly torquing the sensor. What happens is the sensor distorts after being over-torqued several times and will not seal properly against the filter housing, and since the fuel system is under vacuum at the filter, it doesn't leak fuel, it sucks air. Try replacing the filter and sensor, screw the sensor into the filter until the rubber o-ring just makes contact with the filter, then turn the sensor another 180 degrees. It may not feel tight enough but trust me it's good, remember, it's not sealing pressure, it's sealing vacuum. Good luck, I hope this helps.

If your lift pump is working you don't have an air leak. A plugged fuel filter will also give the same code.

 

[scoutdoors1000]

Is the system under vacuum or pressure? Sounds like it is under pressure which to me would suggest you have a leak in the tiny length of line that us under vacuum or the electric pump has such high flow that you are getting the Bernoulli principle working against you. In my humble experience two things cause leaks....places where metal comes together and cut gaskets.... well a third is a clogged filter,

 

[stampy]

5 gal can of diesel and a 12v diesel fuel pump connected at the back near where the tank connects pressurize and look for leaks.

 

[kapnklug]

SUCCESS!!!
And a valuable lesson for anyone installing an electric fuel pump...
First, I tried Stampy's idea of pressurizing the fuel system to look for leaks. That was a good idea, although I found it necessary to seal off the return line with a bolt and hoseclamp in order to build pressure. Man was I bummed when even that didn't reveal any problems!
Finally realized that the prefilter I'm using in front of the electric pump (a small canister type) was installed HORIZONTALLY, so that the upper half trapped air, and would sometimes send a bubble up to the engine (like whenever the truck went over a bump) even after bleeding the main filter. Eventually the main filter would accumulate enough air to run rough then stall. I used (2) 3/8" barbed elbows top and bottom to mount the prefilter VERTICALLY so no air is trapped, and BINGO! Runs like a champ, with no air accumulation after bleeding.

 

[mistaken1]

Thanks for the after action report!

 

[stampy]

Nice FIX!!!! Glad you figured it out.

 

[southdave]

I got one them on my tank like this

 

[Ronbo]

I'm in the process of doing this.. So what are the suggestions on the heater / water sensor wires? Cnip/ clip? tape'em off ?? whats the best way? Thanks
ps also in the picture I see a box on the filter , is that a heater?

 

[southdave]

do a search there is alot info I put up stnadyne Fm100 system uses all the stock wiring and every thing for the heater. the water sensor too if you want it

 

[southdave]

more pics I since remove the box filter I runing 30 & 5 micron filters the heater and sight bowl in on the 30 micron filter

 

[kapnklug]

As for the stock wiring, I just rolled mine up and zip-tied it out of the way behind the vacuum pump. I wonder if I'll miss that fuel heater come winter; might have to make a coolant-fired heater inflow with the heater core, so that when it's cold enough for cab heat it heats the fuel filter bowl as well.
The black box strapped to the filter bowl is a big magnet for catching metal particles, since I frequently use WMO blends.