Fuel Issues - No Start

[7Dust]

Ive had the truck for many years and it NEVER has failed to start. Until recently after sitting for a few weeks.

Truck will run for a bit on starter fluid.

Loosened the bleed on the drivers side filters. Fuel comes out with power on.

Changed the fuel filters on the drivers side because I had a set but truck still will not start.

I was about to change the filter under the alternator for good measure but looks like I might have the wrong filter? Its a tall canister and the filter is short? Is this correct? Can I get this changed without moving the alternator?

Since I'm getting fuel at the secondary filters - what step is next?

 

[stanky johanson]

You have the correct filter for you primary, Have some one crank the truck while you break the injector lines loose. If you have no fuel comming out of the lines then its an issue with the injection pump, if you have fuel with bubble in it it is an air intrusion from one of the fuel lines. Look at your shut off cable that runs the the side of the injection pump. Make sure it moves freely, if it dose not, remove the cover for the shut off and clean it and check if it moves freely.

And for the love of god please stop using Starting fluid. Unless you would like to buy a new motor.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Fuel shutoff lever is stuck or the retaining button has fallen off the bottom of the hydraulic head.

 

[dmetalmiki]

As all the above..(espacially don't run it on easy start), and definately check for squirts at the injectors.

 

[7Dust]

The kill cable has always been kind of a pain to operate and Ive been dealing with it. I can see the rod going in and out with the cable though. Is there still a reason to remove the cover?

 

[stanky johanson]

Yes, its only 4 bolts, better safe than sorry.

 

[doghead]

Yes, the rod can go in and still not disengage the kill lever and associated parts. This is a fairly common problem.

 

[Warthog]

We have been seeing quite a few trucks having this issue that last few weeks.

 

[Westech]

A gob of grease under the cover works wonders.

 

[Jeepsinker]

The cover should mount with two slotted screws. Don't remove the wrong cover, it'll get you nowhere.

 

[welldigger]

A gob of grease under the cover works wonders.

How would that help? Engine oil will just wash it away. The side of the control rod that sticks is exposed to fuel. So again grease will just dissolve.

 

[Jeepsinker]

It can't be any worse than having nothing in there. At the least it could act as an air barrier.

 

[gimpyrobb]

The cover should mount with two slotted screws. Don't remove the wrong cover, it'll get you nowhere.

Sometimes slotted, sometimes bolts, but certainly not 4, just 2.

 

[Westech]

How would that help? Engine oil will just wash it away. The side of the control rod that sticks is exposed to fuel. So again grease will just dissolve.

When it's sticking. It will loosen all the gunk up. And just as you said wash away. I would rather do that then spray stuff in there.
I have done it to my deuce a few times. It's just eZ to slap it in and let it sit and do the work.
Just a hint or trick.

 

[welldigger]

When it's sticking. It will loosen all the gunk up. And just as you said wash away. I would rather do that then spray stuff in there.
I have done it to my deuce a few times. It's just eZ to slap it in and let it sit and do the work.
Just a hint or trick.

Now I see what you mean.

 

[7Dust]

First, I apologize for not fixing my truck and waiting so long to address this.

Removed the cover today and this is what I can't see since the frame rail is in the way (so took a picture):




I don't see anything wrong but I also don't understand what I'm looking at.

 

[Warthog]

Below the the wire you will see a tab with a rod attached. See if you can move it to the front and back easily. That is the fuel control rod. It has to move freely.



If it is sticking then you have to remove it and clean the rod and opening with carb cleaner.

Cut the wire
Remove the two screws and bridge block
CAREFULLY remove the keeper key from the rod. DO NOT LOOSE IT
Gently pry the fuel control unit from the housing
MAKE SURE you do NOT drop the little pin that is inserted in the end of the rod
Clean everything with carb cleaner
Check the o-ring that may come out with the rod. You may want a get a new one. I don't have the size handy but it has been posted many times.
Using a mirror look inside the hole for the slotted disk. It has to move up and down freely. Sometime you need to clean it with extra carb cleaner. A pocket screwdriver works wonders
When everything is clean and moving freely it is time to reassemble
While inserting the rod the pin at the end of the rod MUST be inserted into the slot in the disk. It may take a couple of tries to get it.
I would suggest using a new safety wire

 

[orren]

One thing I've learned is that the HH slowly wears especially if fuel has been less than very clean i.e. WVO, etc. This causes the
plunger tolerances to become too open, thus at the lower RPM of starting and idling the engine, sufficient pressure is not produced
to open the injectors.

Must remember these HH's are pumping for six cylinders using only one high pressure plunger unlike most diesels using six
high pressure plungers. Also, the rotating action of the plunger increases wear, too.

If I had to guess the WVO, etc. still have carbon particulates, even well under one micron, that are very hard and act like
grit on these high pressure, close tolerance parts.

 

[7Dust]

Below the the wire you will see a tab with a rod attached. See if you can move it to the front and back easily. That is the fuel control rod. It has to move freely.

View attachment 550652

If it is sticking then you have to remove it and clean the rod and opening with carb cleaner.

Cut the wire
Remove the two screws and bridge block
CAREFULLY remove the keeper key from the rod. DO NOT LOOSE IT
Gently pry the fuel control unit from the housing
MAKE SURE you do NOT drop the little pin that is inserted in the end of the rod
Clean everything with carb cleaner
Check the o-ring that may come out with the rod. You may want a get a new one. I don't have the size handy but it has been posted many times.
Using a mirror look inside the hole for the slotted disk. It has to move up and down freely. Sometime you need to clean it with extra carb cleaner. A pocket screwdriver works wonders
When everything is clean and moving freely it is time to reassemble
While inserting the rod the pin at the end of the rod MUST be inserted into the slot in the disk. It may take a couple of tries to get it.
I would suggest using a new safety wire

So, the round doohickey slides horizontally (left and right in the picture)?

 

[Floridianson]

Think some of the problem is the whole shaft is got a coating on it and one would have to remove the whole control assembely. Then makeing shure you watch the way/angel it comes apart, remove the nut that holds the control rod in the assembely in the shaft. Then clean the shaft carefully to remove build up of matter. Then lube and reassemble.