Fuel issues

[dmetalmiki]

Update please, did you find a solution to the problem?.

 

[nedbread]

Update please, did you find a solution to the problem?.

Thanks!

Yesterday I took down the fuel tank. The "sock" inside the tank looked just fine. Today I am hoping to get it back up and by tomorrow have all the fuel lines replaced and primed. When the pump comes (probably this Friday?) the IP swap will be the order of the day.

I bought a reman IP via pensacoladiesel for $395, $430 with tax and shipping. The price is discounted because they ask for your old IP when you take it off. They pay the shipping on that.

 

[nedbread]

Does anybody know how to get the vent tube off on the fill hole side? When I look at it from below I can't see any clamp on the hose.

Best,
Ned

 

[Mad Texan]

This end is under the cover, inside the bench...

 

[cucvrus]

This end is under the cover, inside the bench...

Very nice. You got to love that old caulking. I still have the LED's here for you.

 

[Mad Texan]

Very nice. You got to love that old caulking. I still have the LED's here for you.

That green stuff is brutal... rolock scotch-bright best method to remove it. I need to get out to see you! I have a few things I'm hoping I can source from you.

 

[nedbread]

Hi,

I removed and replaced the pump all injectors and external connections are back as is the air intake. The last thing is those three bolts... can't figure that out. Any help? I rotate the engine till i can stick an allen key down a hole, all I get is a very rough cross-thread on my bolt, and even then I rotate to the next hole and it's not lined up. Try taking out the bolt and things appear stuck the whole assembly rotates but it doesn't help me.

Thanks best wishes,
Ned

 

[Mad Texan]

Hi,

I removed and replaced the pump all injectors and external connections are back as is the air intake. The last thing is those three bolts... can't figure that out. Any help? I rotate the engine till i can stick an allen key down a hole, all I get is a very rough cross-thread on my bolt, and even then I rotate to the next hole and it's not lined up. Try taking out the bolt and things appear stuck the whole assembly rotates but it doesn't help me.

Thanks best wishes,
Ned

Which three bolts are you referencing?

 

[cucvrus]

I think he is talking the injection pump. That is the only thing I can figure that rotates and the bolts only line up one way. The stud on the pump goes thru the oblong hole in the timing gear. Get it lined up and push it in place. align and start all 3 bolts by hand before you thoroughly tighten all of them. Don't worry the gear does not have enough room to skip a tooth if you are doing the bolt installation thru the oil fill hole. Good Luck. Report Back.

 

[nedbread]

Thanks cucvrus and mad texan.


I did not realize you can pull that round gasket that the oil fill tube goes into so I couldnt see into the hole at all and I stuck the dowel pin on the IP into one of the bolt holes. Hence things not lining up. So I have to do it all again.


(I'm back and forth to Austin from the ranch so I'm stealing a day or two to work on it plus the delivery time on the new pump hence how long its taking. no real issues getting things off and on.)
Ned

 

[Sharecropper]

Thanks cucvrus and mad texan.


I did not realize you can pull that round gasket that the oil fill tube goes into so I couldnt see into the hole at all and I stuck the dowel pin on the IP into one of the bolt holes. Hence things not lining up. So I have to do it all again.


(I'm back and forth to Austin from the ranch so I'm stealing a day or two to work on it plus the delivery time on the new pump hence how long its taking. no real issues getting things off and on.)
Ned

As the image below shows, the injection pump will only bolt to the gear one way due to the eccentric lay-out of the holes, which is by design to assure correct rotational position. You will need to install the 3 bolts through the oil fill tube hole. But a word of caution - before trying to start the bolts, stuff a rag into the space below the holes and between the gear and the water pump housing to prevent any dropped bolt from traveling all the way down into the lower bowels of the engine. If that happens, the only way to get to the lost bolt is to remove the front of the engine. It is also helpful to use a special socket magnet inside the socket to hold the bolt head in the socket when starting the threads. When trying to align the holes, use a mirror and a flashlight while hanging over the radiator and get your buddy to rotate the engine with a breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt.

Hope this helps.

 

[cucvrus]

That picture is very pretty but it does not depict the timing gear on the CUCV 6.2 engine. the ones I have worked on have a round hole, an oblong hole and 3 bolt holes. my first time out I tried the round hole. Then looking at the old injection pump face I seen the distinct marks from the round hole and the oblong hole around the alignment pin of the injection pump. my knowledge was burnt into my mind forever. Good Luck. I think you are on track. And Sharecropper Thank You for the picture of your new Mud Buggy engine. Can't wait to see it go thru the swamp hole. Take Care.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Just a heads up. Fuel lines run in a pinch area. When the engine mounts fail (rubber rot), the engine can drop enough to pinch the lines.

A blocked return line can do funny things.

 

[Mad Texan]

Thanks cucvrus and mad texan.

I did not realize you can pull that round gasket that the oil fill tube goes into so I couldnt see into the hole at all and I stuck the dowel pin on the IP into one of the bolt holes. Hence things not lining up. So I have to do it all again.

(I'm back and forth to Austin from the ranch so I'm stealing a day or two to work on it plus the delivery time on the new pump hence how long its taking. no real issues getting things off and on.)
Ned

Take a mirror with you to look in the back side where the pump goes in to help line up the dowel pin. Don't install anything till all bolts are started into threads cleanly. Intake last...

 

[nedbread]

Thanks,

I got the dowel pin in the correct hole and all the bolts installed. Everything is put back together.

How do I bleed the injectors? Up to this point to prime I just crack the bleed screw on the fuel filter and crank with the pink wire off the IP and gas cap off until diesel runs out the hose

Batteries died somewhere along the way... I have a car and jumpers, and a jump box. Any tips on jumping with the two batteries?

Ned

UPDATE:

Got the system prime and ran the engine... much less smoke. And idled fine. Unfortunately the throttle cable is stuck. Gonna get a new one tomorrow and see how everything goes.

UPDATE 2:

Got a throttle cable... everything running ok now. Thanks all!

If anyone is reading this later on here's what I have to add what was said above:
============================================================================================
+1 on the hydraulic lift for the gas tank. I returned it to Harbor Freight after using it for several days for a full refund.

Connecting the rubber fuel lines from the fuel sending unit when reinstalling the tank was tricky on the M1010.... The hoses have to be cut to the exact right length. The hose clamps have to be arranged so that the screws can be reached when everything is raised up. I inched the tank up stopping to guide the hoses onto the nozzles. I made a long wrench/nut driver to reach the hose clamp tightening screws.

I did not need any of the special tools mentioned above to do the IP. I used a channel lock to turn the engine and did all bolts with a standard comprehensive ratchet set and wrench set.

The dowel on the IP goes into the "slot" on the gear --- it is not a round hole its oblong in shape. The dowel pin MUST be in this slot BEFORE anything (injectors, intake manifold) gets tightened down.

Bleeding the system takes much longer after you do this than if you just changed the fuel filter.... I cranked for about 8 seconds about 10-15 times with 1 minute in between.

Bottom line;;; if you know what you're doing with tools and such, like these guys said it is not too difficult. That does not mean it's not a lot of thinking and work. The total cost of this including hoses and special tools (see above) was around $550. It took around 15 hours.

Best wishes,
Ned

 

[Mad Texan]

Thanks,

I got the dowel pin in the correct hole and all the bolts installed. Everything is put back together.

How do I bleed the injectors? Up to this point to prime I just crack the bleed screw on the fuel filter and crank with the pink wire off the IP and gas cap off until diesel runs out the hose

Batteries died somewhere along the way... I have a car and jumpers, and a jump box. Any tips on jumping with the two batteries?

Ned

UPDATE:

Got the system prime and ran the engine... much less smoke. And idled fine. Unfortunately the throttle cable is stuck. Gonna get a new one tomorrow and see how everything goes.

UPDATE 2:

Got a throttle cable... everything running ok now. Thanks all!

If anyone is reading this later on here's what I have to add what was said above:
============================================================================================
+1 on the hydraulic lift for the gas tank. I returned it to Harbor Freight after using it for several days for a full refund.

Connecting the rubber fuel lines from the fuel sending unit when reinstalling the tank was tricky on the M1010.... The hoses have to be cut to the exact right length. The hose clamps have to be arranged so that the screws can be reached when everything is raised up. I inched the tank up stopping to guide the hoses onto the nozzles. I made a long wrench/nut driver to reach the hose clamp tightening screws.

I did not need any of the special tools mentioned above to do the IP. I used a channel lock to turn the engine and did all bolts with a standard comprehensive ratchet set and wrench set.

The dowel on the IP goes into the "slot" on the gear --- it is not a round hole its oblong in shape. The dowel pin MUST be in this slot BEFORE anything (injectors, intake manifold) gets tightened down.

Bleeding the system takes much longer after you do this than if you just changed the fuel filter.... I cranked for about 8 seconds about 10-15 times with 1 minute in between.

Bottom line;;; if you know what you're doing with tools and such, like these guys said it is not too difficult. That does not mean it's not a lot of thinking and work. The total cost of this including hoses and special tools (see above) was around $550. It took around 15 hours.

Best wishes,
Ned

Glad you got it running again! I've used a vacuum pump to bleed most of the lines in the past pulling fuel all the way to the injection pump. Then crack the injector lines to get fuel to them and it should start easily then.

 

[nedbread]

Glad you got it running again! I've used a vacuum pump to bleed most of the lines in the past pulling fuel all the way to the injection pump. Then crack the injector lines to get fuel to them and it should start easily then.

Thanks, runs well... The pump was most likely having issues long before it died. The shifting is smoother, and fuel efficiency increased.

 

[nedbread]

By the way, Should I add something with the diesel? Someone mentioned this is caused by modern diesel not having the same composition as it did in the 80's. I added a little bottle of yellow liquid carb/injector cleaner. Is this what I should be adding every time?

Thanks

 

[cucvrus]

I never added anything to my fuel ever. I see guys saying 2 cycle oil. It's not a chain saw. I use straight truck stop diesel or home heating oil. Works about the same. That's an opinion thing but after 27 years I must admit I have NOT added anything.

 

[royalflush55]

If you want to get the most life out of injection pump and injectors with ULSD always add one of the high quality diesel additives at the proper dose to every tank. It will also run more quite and smoother!