Fuel issues

[TechnoWeenie]

By the way, Should I add something with the diesel? Someone mentioned this is caused by modern diesel not having the same composition as it did in the 80's. I added a little bottle of yellow liquid carb/injector cleaner. Is this what I should be adding every time?

Thanks

TCW3 will increase lubricity.

There are others, and a report was made which shows what improves lubricity the most....

Biodiesel and Optilube XPD were #1 and #2 respectively, but they can be expensive, and TCw3 brought the fuel into the wear specification range. Optilube XL is a newer product and reports are that it's better than biodiesel.

TCw3 is readily available for about $11, and used at a rate of one ounce per gallon, meaning you get roughly 2 tanks for $11, or $5.50 add'l per tank.

Optilube XPD is ~$70 and treats up to 512 gallons... It's an anti-gel, cetane improver, and does a few other things.
For 60 gallons, use 15 oz. So, minimum use would get you around 10 FULL fill ups for ~$70, roughly 7$/tank
However, below 32*F, it's suggested to double the dose, meaning you're paying almost $15 extra per tank, in winter.

Optilube XL is pretty much for lubrication only, and is ~$50 for up to 1024 gallons.
For 60 gallons, use 6 oz to 15 oz. So, minimum use would get you around 20 FULL fill ups for ~$50, or roughly $2.50 extra per tank.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

From personal experience, using TCw3, in all my CUCVs, and my M934 (Cummins 14L), there is a big difference in noise between treated and un-treated fuel. I'm not a chemist, nor will I pretend to be, but I've run them without TCw3, and having dumped TCw3 into the tank while the engine is running, there is a substantial difference in operating NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness) almost immediately, as in 30 seconds to a minute, as the TCw3 made its way into the tank/fuel and was picked up and sent to the engine...

The only thing to keep in mind, when using TCw3, and even more so if you decide to dump in ATF or fresh motor oil, is they have a TON of detergents in them, so it WILL clean out your tank and lines...which is good, but you should always carry a spare filter with you.... Because you now just pushed 50+ years of crap (if you have never cleaned your tank) through to your filter...

 

[Mad Texan]

Some prices on gallons all from Wally world:

Wally world 2 stroke $12.83/128 = .100 per gallon
Pennzoil Premium $17.86/128 = .139 per gallon

Opti-lube XPD $70.15/512 = .137 per gallon
Opti-lube XL $56.16/1280 = .044 per gallon

In my opinion two stoke oil adds lubrication the same as Opti-lube XL

Opti-lube XPD does a lot more than two stroke oil and for a couple months you may double it. But if fuel manufactures are adding anti gels and other additives is it really necessary?

I've tried two stroke and the XPD, but run the XL mostly.... YMMV

ATF has friction modifiers in it for clutches, it may clean a lot more out...

 

[usabamaman]

Hi ,

I have a 1985 M1010 with the 6.2L diesel. It has worked fine since I got it in September 2019, although I did not drive it much and it sat for a few months during that time. Made 1400 mi from Minnesota to Texas with no trouble.

Recently I was told by another owner I met that he replaced his IP and he advised me to use fuel additive.

Shortly thereafter I noticed a rough idle and loss of accelerating power on the road. Pretty quick it just up and stopped going when I hit the gas, so I cruised to a stop and monkeyed with the fuel filter. I did more harm than good and ended up getting it towed to a local shop.

They could not figure it out. They spent a lot of time with it. They replaced the fuel filter (correctly) so it was running again but like before, smoke, rough idle, and no acceleration. They said that the idle-up solenoid was giving sporadic readings and is probably bad. They said they are 99% sure it's the IP because of their diagnosis process.

They quoted me $3,500 to replace a handfull of parts including the injector pump, with 10 hours of labor in there, so I more or less deduced you cant own one of these things unless you do the work yourself.

I can probably replace the IP myself following the manual and such. Should I do that? I read there is another fuel filter in the gas tank called a sock. It looks pretty gnarly to get the gas tank off.

Thanks for any advice.

Best,
Ned S.

I think you are right about having to work on the vehicle yourself. Mine is costing a lot in labor when it needs something. I will sell it in the next year or so along with the other two vehicles and put that money down on a new replacement. If onlline ads are any indication my m1009's price is at an all time high, so maybe a good time to get out.

 

[nedbread]

TCW3 will increase lubricity.

There are others, and a report was made which shows what improves lubricity the most....

Biodiesel and Optilube XPD were #1 and #2 respectively, but they can be expensive, and TCw3 brought the fuel into the wear specification range. Optilube XL is a newer product and reports are that it's better than biodiesel.

TCw3 is readily available for about $11, and used at a rate of one ounce per gallon, meaning you get roughly 2 tanks for $11, or $5.50 add'l per tank.

Optilube XPD is ~$70 and treats up to 512 gallons... It's an anti-gel, cetane improver, and does a few other things.
For 60 gallons, use 15 oz. So, minimum use would get you around 10 FULL fill ups for ~$70, roughly 7$/tank
However, below 32*F, it's suggested to double the dose, meaning you're paying almost $15 extra per tank, in winter.

Optilube XL is pretty much for lubrication only, and is ~$50 for up to 1024 gallons.
For 60 gallons, use 6 oz to 15 oz. So, minimum use would get you around 20 FULL fill ups for ~$50, or roughly $2.50 extra per tank.

Thanks!

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Thanks!

Edit. I had the deuce fuel tank capacity in my head.

All CUCVs except m1009 had ~20 gal tanks, so take the tank rate I posted and divide it by 2.5 or 3 and it'll be accurate.. heh.