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Fuel polishing

sprucemt

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No water, no rust. Get rid of the fuel tank and get a new one or at the least seal the tank commercialy. Get rid of the rusty "cans" with new ones or wait till John has the secondary fuel adapters. Simply said get rid of the item causing the rust and resolve the water entry issue.
The Dahl filter is $167.00 to $262.00 depending on flow rate.
 

cranetruck

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Where is the rust coming from, the tank or the filter housing?
The fuel tank, it was/is a used one and featured pinholes and rust. I cut access openings, cleaned it and sealed off one baffle with fiberglass to turn it into a 2-compartment tank. Pinholes and rusty areas were covered with fiberglass, but I obviously missed some spots. It will be replaced now, but I still want to prevent future damage and will pay particular attention to rust.....
 

dabtl

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I think I have to do the project one step at a time. First, I have problems all along the fuel system. First, replace the filter cans. I think I will wait for John on the secondary adapters. That seems more in line with my mechanical ability.

Second, I will try to locate a couple of fuel tanks or when I run through this tank full, pull them out for a commercial seal job.

In the mean time, Bjorn got me to looking at filter magnets. Very expensive item, when you can find them. So, I put some thought into it and here is what I came up with. I saved about $300 on this.:-D

I went to ACE Hardware, bought magnets and used masking tape to secure them. I will know what happens in a few runs when I pull the fuel secondaries for a peek.:-D

Also, I attached a view of the bottom of the primary filter housing I removed to replace it with John's spin on adapter version.
 

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gimpyrobb

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Dabtl, find a couple old computer hard drives. Take them apart and get the magnets out of them. Very strong magnets in a hard drive, and they are cheap too.
 

dabtl

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These were about $1.50 each so nothing important lost if nothing comes of it. I will check them in a few weeks. If the seem to be working I will probably add two more for a total of four on each filter.

Who knows? Stranger things have worked before.
 

dabtl

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Anybody ever used a magnetic type filter?

Bjorn, you got my curiosity up with this! I had never heard of magnetic type filters ever.

I got to looking and found the Mag Force, essentially an external clamp on system, and the Force Field spin on adapters, essentially a magnetic spacer for spin on filters through which the fluid passes prior to getting to the filters. The spin on adapter is ingenious but I wonder if cleaning would be a problem and if enough particulates concentrated over such a small area would limit fluid flow? After all, we are dealing with large filters which could and should trap a lot of debris without limiting clean fluid flow.

Looking at the simple physics it would appear that the magnetic field would attract all sizes of metal debris, including those too large to pass through the filter. So, looking at the pictures of the results may be misleading at best. But, on the other hand it surely traps smaller debris that would pass the filters.

The Mag Force is expensive, I never found the retail price on the Force Field. In addition, Force Field does not list a product for the spin on jatonka filters and I do not have any idea what filter numbers the other adapters use. So, I simply acquired some strong magnets from ACE Hardware to tape to the sides of the canisters. I figure that may be as good a solution as the Mag Force system but not have the possible drawbacks of the Force Field system.

This kind of like fishing with a new lure, you never know the outcome till you try.:-D
 

dabtl

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My current thoughts, subject to change without notice to the outside world, are to replace my secondary fuel filters with spin on filters. This way I get to dispose of the canisters each time I change the filter hence I eliminate those as a rust source. Next, I will install a bowl type magnetic fuel filter between the IP and the filters, I hope. After cleaning and lining the fuel tank, that is about as good as it can get.

I am looking to see if the magnetic spin on oil filter adapters fit my jatonka filters. If so, I will buy a couple of those, along with a magnetic oil pan plug. That should take care of the debris in the oil, I hope.

This really gets interesting a bit. Thanks for the heads up.
 

cranetruck

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The application info for the Dahl filters suggests that it is installed on the suction side only of the pump, so it may not be the filter of choice for the deuce.
 

Bill W

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The Dahl or also Racor ( Dahl designed them both ) are excellent filters but a bit over kill for just hard paticulate filtration. As already mentioned (and done ), go with a spin on filter. I'm putting a wix spin on filter head (24770) in place of my primary cartridge filter and it will have a NAPA 3405 spin on filter ( both filter and head cost me less than $45.00 ) the 3405 filters at 12 microns ( finer filters are avaliable) and has a drain. Got the whole setup from Fleet Filtration http://www.fleetfilter.com/Store_ViewProducts.asp?Cat=68
 
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cranetruck

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Something to think about:

"Each year more than 500 million spin-on cans wind up in North American landfills, yielding 250,000 tons of scrap metal and 30 million gallons of discarded residual waste oil. The disposal costs add up."
(Parker advertisement)

Racor holds the patent for the turbine type filter/water separator. Patent #3,931,011 Jan 6, 1976....
 
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sprucemt

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The application info for the Dahl filters suggests that it is installed on the suction side only of the pump, so it may not be the filter of choice for the deuce.
And to think that 4 of them on different power units and are hooked up backed a** words work great after all those years.
 

dabtl

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I think the DAHL unit may be really great. But, my problem is not from the tank to the primary filter. It is all the way across the line. Once I get spin on filters on ALL the fuel filters, rust there is not a problem. The DAHL could work well either before the primary or after the secondaries it would seem.
 

cranetruck

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And to think that 4 of them on different power units and are hooked up backed a** words work great after all those years.
There is a vacuum gauge sold to check the vacuum on the outlet side to tell when it's time to replace the Dahl filter element, so perhaps they will work even better if they are installed as per instructions.
For the Racor filter, an excessive pressure drop is the indication of a spent filter element, so there may be some differences in operation of the two filters.
 

Bill W

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Both Dahl and Racor "Turbine" filters work best on a vacumn ( suction) setup. The Racor spin on series will work on either pressure or vacumn.
 
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FreightTrain

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10 Microns?11 Microns.....You gotta be kidding me.That is a joke!If I was going to up grade it would atleast get down to 2 or 3 Microns minimum.Prefer 1 or lower.10 micron is a bolder to a fuel system.Has anyone looked into a centrifuge system like the Mack trucks have for oil filters?No media.No motor,runs on the liquid pressure.
 
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