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Thank you for the excellent advise. THis is the best $26 I have ever spent. For the first time in three years the truck started this morning and kept running--just tapped the fuel, waited for the glow plugs to cycle, cranked and it started and ran. Temperature was about 25 degrees. This is a first for me and this truck. Also, the part I got from Owen's (a great place for parts and an interesting guy to talk to) was a type 3. The instructions say you need a special tool available from the manufacturer. I believe the tool is to help prevent damage to the part, but I used my thumbs after lubricating the O-ring, and it seemed to work fine, and the new-style retaining clip that is attched to the part was easy to get in place with a screw driver. Thanks again--this is a great place to start for anyone who is having problems with air getting into the fuel system on a 1008.
thanks.....it starts up much better than before........thank you....
I just started a thread looking for the part which is purported to fix this problem. It's a pressure regulator, that is right "at the top front" of the IP. Here's the link.I wish my hard starting fix was this simple. I replaced the filter base with one that didn't have the hole for the switch and the problem was not cured. If I park the truck with the nose up, even with only a slight incline, it seems like fuel must be pumped all the way from the tank. Sometimes a full minute of cranking. If I park with the front of the truck down, it will start with about 5 sec of cranking. I have a leak somewhere else, but it has not shown me a fuel leak, only a drain back leak. Truck runs smooth after a minute or two and all the air gets out of the fuel system.
It will take you longer to setup the welder (if it's possible to weld) than to just plug it forever as already mentioned.I also have a leaking PS and I wonder if it is safe to have this hole TIG welded instead?
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