fuel priming help

[bbqfan5909]

Fellas,

Just replaced the fuel sending unit and got the fuel gauge to finally work....replaced the rubber lines from the tank to the metal fuel lines. We did let the lines hold the tank and replaced them plus the filler neck. Now I am having problems priming the fuel system (multiple cranks and no fuel to the fuel filter)?

We disconnected the filler cap and cap on fuel filter and cranked for 10-15 seconds multiple times and let the starter cool with noting at all. Is this right? Seems to follow the TM's...

Any help would be great,

Casey

 

[TCUCV]

I would also suggest putting a battery charger on your front battery, b/c continuing to crank will drain your batteries

 

[OL AG '89]

read through the proper priming sequence in the TM. IT is VERY straight forward...

NEVER EVER crank for more than about 5 secs at a time and let the thing rest after repeated attempts. The strater and associated circuits are not designed for extended cranking. You will release the magic smoke and your problems will be become worse.

 

[Warthog]

You can also pressurize the fuel tank to help bleed the air.

 

[soule64]

My truck was sucking air and very hard to start, so I replaced all of the rubber lines, got a spin-on filter, then bled everything using a hand operated vacuum pump - used primarily for bleeding brakes ($10 at Harbor Freight) - to draw the fuel all the way up to the IP line. It worked great - the truck fired immediately and I have not had a single fuel problem since.

 

[hemi348]

Warthog,
I like your idea on pressurizing the tank could you expound on how you go about doing it?

soule64,
You wouldn't happen to have the part number on that vacuum pump would you?

I like having a mechanical fuel pump but it just makes me cringe having to ride my starter to prime the fuel system.

 

[Barrman]

The new sender you installed should have had an extra line. You probably put the rubber cap from the old sender on the extra line. Reach in by the passenger rear tire, pull the cap and put 1-3 psi of air in there. Open the bleeder at the filter and you should get all air and bubbles out.

Make sure you have fuel in the tank first.

Any auto parts store sells hand pumped vacuum pumps for brake bleeding. You want one that comes with hose and bleeder nipple adaptors along with a cup that collects fluid but doesn't draw it through the pump.

 

[soule64]

Like Barrman said, it was just a cheepie from Harbor Freight. Just hook it to the IP line after everything is hooked up and pump it till the fuel comes out steady and then pop the line off the pump and jam it on the IP hard line. works like a champ

 

[Warthog]

Another way to pressurize the tank is:

Open the bleeder valve at the fuel filter, remove the fuel cap, take a airgun and wrap a rag around it. In short bursts, apply air to the tank until fuel exits the filter.

DON'T build up to much pressure as you can break something (lift pump, filter housing, etc)

 

[bbqfan5909]

Thanks guys for all the input...we did not hook the "drain line" back up to the fuel sender (one ordered did not have that option).

 

[bbqfan5909]

She lives once again! Apparently my lift pump doesn't have enough in it to pull diesel from the tank with empty lines.

Thank you for all of your ideas they helped me figure out my own technique to prime my fuel lines.

I bought this today Multi-Use Transfer Pump

I got lucky and it fits perfectly to the top fuel line that goes into the fuel filter. After ten pumps I had a bunch of diesel in my drain bucket at the front of the truck. I plugged the line into the fuel filter and primed the filter like I tried before and finally got the gusher of diesel from the top of the filter like I wanted.

Then I cranked the starter with the IP pump plugged back in and after three attempts she roared back to life.

So in the future I will be using this pump to prime my fuel lines if I ever run out of diesel again.