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Fuel pump question

devilman96

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2deuce,

I am working on a high volume external inline pump kit for replacing the "in tank" pump and should have it together and ready to ship by Friday this week. The install will require cutting the main fuel line and splicing in the pump using the same self aligning fittings found on the rest of the system; IE no hose clamps, rubber lines, goofy fittings, etc. All of the fittings and electrical parts will be included as well as a "how to" guide to installing it...

Cost on the kit will be just under 100$... PM me Friday afternoon and I will get you pictures and info if you're interested.


Mike
www.odiron.com
 

nickd

Active member
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Location
Newport, Delaware
please post pictures when you are done for the guys that have not alteady spent the big bucks to replace the pump. I got pumped by the pump if you know what I mean.
 

acetomatoco

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I just stick a fuel burning heater fuel pump in line.. It is the same pump used as the transfer pump on a lot of the 5 tons... about 40 bux and one wire... the same one which powered your intank supply pump... ACE
 

jatonka

Well-known member
1,802
87
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Location
Ephratah, New York
That sounds simple enough ACE. But what about the coefficient of expansion of diesel fuel passing through said pump while pumpig fuel to the FI pump instead of the other fuel tank as it was originally designed to do? and isn't it presumptive to expect you can use only one wire which would be the same wire (1) that originally ran the intank fuel pump to power the external out of tank fuel pump? Too simple. Some people prefer complicated. :jumpin:
 

builder77

In Memorial
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I picked up a few Facet 480517 pumps which I have not put to use yet. They are 6-8psi, and flow 33 us gallons/hour.
 

cranetruck

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I have "played" with the in-tank fuel pump and the approx open ended flow rate is 6 gallons/minute. The flow rate with the engine running is about 2 to 3 quarts /minute at 6 psi, plus or minus.
The transfer pump used for heaters and such cannot touch that.
A good take-off in-tank pump can be had for about $75 in my experience.
 

builder77

In Memorial
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Bjorn I see what you mean about the flow rates. Do you know if the intank pump is rebuildable? My pump gets noisy somtimes, and I am thinking that the bearings might need to be replaced, if they can be.
 

cranetruck

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The motor is sealed and coupled to the impeller magnetically. They are probably not rebuildable unless the motor is simply replaced.
Pull it out of the tank and check it over for starters.
 

maxim

Member
I have had the in tank pump go out and floored at the over $400 for a replacement. I went to Auto Value and they found a Carter 24 volt fuel pump that matched the per gallons per hour needs that were similar to the in tank pump. I regret I do not have the model number but they got it from the Carter catalog. It was about $80. I left the drop tube and old pump intact and ran the wire for the Carter through a hole drilled in the top of the Buss fuse box using the original fuse and sealed it. Installed a filter as recomended, and the Carter pump on the tank as it was recomended to be no more than 24" from the fuel source. The photo shows it may be ugly but a whole lot cheaper than an in line or at least until I find one. I have driven the truck over 1200 miles this way and time will tell. There seemed to be no problem with lack of fuel. The Carter was rated for 9-15 GPH and as I understand it the original was 9-12 GPH.
 

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cranetruck

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maxim said:
.....There seemed to be no problem with lack of fuel. The Carter was rated for 9-15 GPH and as I understand it the original was 9-12 GPH.
The engine may burn 8 or 10 gallons per hour, but some 30 gallons is circulated through the injection pump in an hour....

A lot of fuel is used for cooling the injectors.
 

builder77

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There may be a question of what exactly our flow rates actually mean as Bjorn tests were free flow, and I would assume the Facet flow rate I listed was under pressure. It probably worth emailing some of the manufacturers to find out what specs they have listed and how they did their testing. Who was the manufacturer of the intank pumps? I have a call in with Facet tech support to find out if they have any suggestions, and to see how they test their pump for flow.
 

2deuce

Well-known member
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portland, oregon
The pump was out for some time in my truck but it ran fine without it. I bypassed the compensator because I was getting fuel in the crankcase and changed the primary fuel filter so the system has lost its prime. I haven't tried to start the engine but I expect it will now need the fuel pump. Where can you buy a Facet pump and what do they cost. If I go with the carter pump which looks like it works fine, I think I would put the filter in the tank. I've got to get this truck running. Thanks
 

M543A2

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I agree with what Bjorn is finding on the flow rates. The flow of fuel is used for more than just feeding the needs of the injected fuel to run the truck. A good flow of fuel above and beyond that used to run the engine is needed to cool the injectors. It also insures well filtered fuel. The injection pumps on Cummins engines can be burned up by a lift pump that is not supplying enough fuel. Be careful, the correct fuel flow is critical. The truck's injection pump has a transfer pump in it that serves the needs of the system with no problem. These trucks will run fine without the in tank pump, but it is nice for purging air and opening filter drains to check for water. If another type of pump that does not have adequate flow is put in the line, there is danger the injection pump's transfer pump cannot draw enough fuel through it like it can the stock in-tank pump, and problems can develop.
Regards Marti
 

oifvet

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(near) Xenia, Ohio
I want to go this route. Does the old in-tank pump stay in place, or can I install a new pick-up tube of some sort? How about a strainer/filter on the pick-up?

I've had it with the in-tank pump. The brand new one I just bought from TNJ Murray puffed at the connector! :x
 

m-35tom

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eldersburg maryland
first, the the flow of fuel does not cool the injectors. it cools the ip head alone and enough flow is essential there.
second you do not need the intank pump for anything other than bleeding the system.
 

devilman96

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You leave the intank pump in place when installing our kit. Simply cut the line above the tank and install the pump using the compression fittings.
 

SasquatchSanta

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Location
Northern Minnesota
Hey maxim ... Concerning the in-line filter ahead of the in-line pump ... what are your feelings about fuel jell ans/or icing problems in the filter? I assume you live in cold country where icing and jelling can be a problem. I considered installing an inline filter but was afraid to. Running straight Nr1 diesel solves the jelling problem but ice is not so easy to solve. Have you ran it in winter yet?
 
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