Fuel Pump Replacement

[cucvegas]

This is my first time replacing a fuel pump, so please bear with me.

I am replacing the fuel pump in an m998 humvee according to TM20-2 (para 3-23 pg 3-36), and I did not order the gasket ( that goes on the mounting plate (7).

The youtube videos I watched did not remove the mounting plate from the block, so I did not order that gasket (.

So, when I removed the old fuel pump, the push rod feels like it is wedged behind the mounting plate, and I can't budge it with a hacksaw blade, flat head screw driver, or needle nose pliers.

Should I just remove the mounting plate and order that gasket online? (O'Reilly's did not have the fuel pump, so I ordered it on Amazon).

I tried cycling the engine a couple different times in hopes the cam would move enough to free up the push rod. No luck, still stuck in there.

Or, can I get away with grey gasket maker instead of the mounting plate gasket?

Thanks for any advice.

 

[cucvegas]

For some reason when I typed an 8 inside parenthesis it made an emojee of a smiley face . it should be gasket number 8.

 

[LouWon]

You can but the gasket at any local automotive shop.
I usually remove the plate and clean everything out, remove the push rod, clean and apply grease so it will hold in place when you re-install the pump
You should buy 2 gasket, a bit of silicone on them will also hold them in place

 

[papakb]

I just did this job on a friends HMMWV and there's no good way to push the fuel pump actuator pin back up into the block without removing the mounting plate. The gaskets are readily available and fit 1955 thru 1995 GM engines and only cost a few bucks so bite the bullet and remove the plate. I used wheel bearing grease to hold the pin up in the block when I remounted the plate and it washes out after the engine warms up so it won't cause any problems down the line. Use a touch of Permatex Hi-Tack to hold the gaskets in place. A word of advice when you do this job, remove the right splash panel and have a long extension with either a 3/8 swivel socket or a universal with a 3/8 socket to put things back together. This allows you to tighten everything up reaching in over the frame rather than busting your knuckles on all the solid stuff in the neighborhood.

Gasket mounting plate to block: FEL-PRO 5182

Fuel pump: Spectra Premium SP1143MP

Pushrod: Carter PR4 or Dorman 03875

 

[cucvegas]

Thank you.

Do you put two gaskets together between the block and the bracket?

 

[papakb]

Only use 1 gasket between the block and the mounting plate.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Gravity is not your friend when changing out a fuel pump. That little push rod will slide right down and hit the inside bottom of the mounting plate. It's just the right length, at the just the right angle and just behind the plate, that trying to flick, push, use a magnet or invent a tool is not worth it. (more like a stuck popcorn husk between your teeth) Follow LouWon advise. Go the extra step remove plate, WATCHING out for the push rod to come right behind the plate. It's not that big, but is a nice slug of metal and it will fall out. Clean the parts and pieces as you go. Good time to shine a light in there just to see how it goes back and how the pieces work together. Rod may show signs of wear and normally not a big deal. Have all the parts ready to go. Easy with the gasket goo.

Add the anti-gravity grease to the end of rod (a-little-dab-will -do-u) and push back in. Another step to make life easier... with helper, crank engine for 3 seconds and stop. Push in on rod to gauge stick out. The trick here is to find the flat lob on the cam where the rod is all the way up in the engine. May require a couple of tries. Doing this is a lot easier to mount the pump, without trying to fight the spring action. Keep an eye on that pesky rod that it doesn't slide back down when getting the plate back on. DOUBLE check it again when flipping in the pump actuator arm and squaring off the mating surfaces while starting the bolts. The first one is always harder.

CAM

 

[cucvegas]

Thank you everyone for the great advice.

Fuel pump installed, humvee running strong and no leaks!

Thanks again!!!

 

[StackJ]

Having the same problem with a 350 Chevy two weeks ago, the axle grease is a good option. In SoCal, we get warm weather. Best to do this in the AM or the grease lets it siip due to the reduction in viscosity due to heat. Solution suggested above works.

 

[Mogman]

Having the same problem with a 350 Chevy two weeks ago, the axle grease is a good option. In SoCal, we get warm weather. Best to do this in the AM or the grease lets it siip due to the reduction in viscosity due to heat. Solution suggested above works.

Old thread I know but on that 350 you made it tougher than you had to, there is a bolt hole threaded into the rod hole from the front of the block, you remove the short bolt and install a longer one and carefully and lightly jam the rod BEFORE you remove the old pump, the bolt will hold the rod in place until you install the new pump, the BBC is the same

 

[DREDnot]

Just a little tidbit that might help someone...
Decades ago, I was riding shotgun with a friend that had just bought a chevy pickup that wouldn't go over 55 mph without running out of fuel.
Fuel pump finally dies in the middle of nowhere and we find a new pump behind the seat and a tool kit from a motorcycle. Just enough to change it out but for the sliding rod problem...

I fashioned this rod lifter/holder from a coathanger that was in the bed of the truck. It could get under the end of the rod, lift it up, and hold it there while you inserted the pump and then sneak past it once the pump was holding the rod up...

It worked so well I kept it and have used it a few more times since. Last time was a few month ago when my buddy dropped the rod when changing out his hmmwv lift pump. It picked it right up off the mount plate