Fuel pump rod busted...

[Mogman]

So I am replacing the leaking fuel pump today, was hoping for a shortcut like the gasser gm engines but apparently no such luck, so after using my head to break the fall of the fuel pump rod on its way to the floor I noticed the rod looked rough as in broken on one end, managed to coax the other piece out of the block with a magnet.
Has anyone else seen this?????

 

[Milcommoguy]

YEP. Many times. Mostly when Mr. Goodwrench tries to put a pump back on. Thinking the pump levers rides on a cam, it goes bad from there. What happens is this little harden push rod slides slides down and is hidden behind the adapter plate. Goodwrench slaps the pump in, meets a little resistance, thinking it's up against the high side of the cam lobe to pump lever and starts tightening the two bolts... until SNAP.

Best way is to know check the TM's. Remove the diamond shaped adapter plate, snag the push rod coming out right behind the plate. Like delivering a baby. Don't drop it.

Trick: Pull the injector solenoid lead as to not start truck. Put finger pressure on it and have some bump the starter to find where it is further up in the bore (minimum amount of stick out) No worries, nothing to bite your finger. Keep away from fan, belts, front of engine rotating parts.

Clean - check - inspect - all the parts. (think baby)

Get all the parts ready to go. Now the fun part... slap some heavy grease on it and put it back in the bore and hold you breath. Do not let it slip out.

Working quickly, while holding breath and knowing you greased it reeeal good, put it all back together. Pay attention if it starts to slip out of position.

Put the wire back on, lines and hoses.

Time for another test drive, CAMO

 

[Mogman]

That's about what I figured after looking at it for a while.
Evidently the last one to put a pump on it did not notice or did not care and put the broken piece back in, I guess I am lucky the pump was leaking, did not look very old..
I just assembled a transfer case with Assembly "GOO" green for summer, it held the needles in place real well so it would probably be the best stuff in my arsenal for this job.

 

[papakb]

I just did this job on a friends HMMWV and there's no good way to push the fuel pump actuator pin back up into the block without removing the mounting plate. The gaskets are readily available and fit 1955 thru 1995 GM engines and only cost a few bucks so bite the bullet and remove the plate. I used wheel bearing grease to hold the pin up in the block when I remounted the plate and it washes out after the engine warms up so it won't cause any problems down the line. Use a touch of Permatex Hi-Tack to hold the gaskets in place. A word of advice when you do this job, remove the right splash panel and have a long extension with either a 3/8 swivel socket or a universal with a 3/8 socket to put things back together. This allows you to tighten everything up reaching in over the frame rather than busting your knuckles on all the solid stuff in the neighborhood.

Gasket mounting plate to block: FEL-PRO 5182

Fuel pump: Spectra Premium SP1143MP

Pushrod: Carter PR4 or Dorman 03875