fuel screw on IP

[maritimer]

ok i have doen the search thing and went through 11 pages of results and not found what i needed lol.

ok so i opened my exhuast up with duel cherry bombs and 3" rear pipes. re routed the air intake to suck cold air in from the outside of the fender 3" pipe going to a hole cut in the passenger side fender gonna be putting the snorkel on this week. but dang it i cannot get to the fuel screw to turn it up a tadi originally tried to go in through the top but after removing the cover i couldnt figure out how to get all the little do hickys out of the top of the IP so bolted everythign back up. apparently there is a panel on the side of the IP that you can acess the screw from but the plenium is in tyhe way and i really dont want to have to take it off cause i doubt it will be an easy task to put back on. any tips or adivce or offers to do it for me LOL.

i would really like to get a bit more HP out of this baby and when i stomp on it i wouldnt mind blowign just a bit of smoke lol right now even when i pull the practice sled we have here *4,000lbs dead weight* i get no smoke whatsoever even with the throttle wide open. and to me something aint right when a diesel doesnt smoke with that much load

 

[CUCVFAN]

Check the Banks turbo installation manual in the Technical Articles section (about 2/3 down the page). It details the adjustment at the end. It's a little too much to go into here. FYI: The manual talks about 1/4 turn, but for the old Banks Stinger kit (intake and exhaust only - no turbo), Banks only recommends 1/8 of a turn.

We really need a way to search the TM and TA section. I almost posted it to the TM section, but I checked the TA and it was there...

 

[maritimer]

yeah i tried d/l the Banks instal and it kept coming up" damaged file could not repair"

 

[CUCVFAN]

It came up for me, but PM me your email address and I'll send it direct to you.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I'm sure Chris C will link it at the top of the CUCV forum if he hasn't already. We're working on this but it takes time. I've not found the magic resort button so everything is done one at a time.

 

[CCATLETT1984]

manual is now linked.

Banks Install Manual

Right-click and do a "Save Target As" to download the file.

 

[troll]

link not work



Troll

 

[CCATLETT1984]

works for me, some versions of acrobat reader dont seem to handle the files well if you try to open them inside internet explorer, you need to right click and save the file to your computer.

 

[Alredneck]

Well you may not want to here this but the mechanical pump for the cucv im pretty sure is close to or is the same as the one on the 6.2 in the humvee, the only way to get more fuel is to send it off and have it " WORKED ON " to get more power. As for in the U.S. im pretty sure thats not goin to be cheap but we get them rebuilt in Iraq by the iraqis and they can do wonders on them pumps, run like a scalded dog!!!!

 

[CCATLETT1984]

Well you may not want to here this but the mechanical pump for the cucv im pretty sure is close to or is the same as the one on the 6.2 in the humvee, the only way to get more fuel is to send it off and have it " WORKED ON " to get more power. As for in the U.S. im pretty sure thats not goin to be cheap but we get them rebuilt in Iraq by the iraqis and they can do wonders on them pumps, run like a scalded dog!!!!

You are mistaken. The pump is the exact same as on the 6.2L powered humvee's, but you can adjust the amount of fuel delivered. You take the top cover off of the pump, carefully remove the fuel-shutoff parts, and then turn the set screw up or down. Then you very carefully place the fuel-shutoff parts back into the pump and put the cover back on. Its all spelled out in the installation guide for the turbo kit, and more pics can be found online.

Having it "worked on" is more of a pain if you have a good pump, esp. since you then have to mess with the injector lines.


One more thing, I forgot to mention earlier, if you are turning up the fuel you NEED to have a pyrometer gauge. Otherwise you risk melting your pistons. for a non-turbo truck, you can place it in the exhaust pipe just after the manifold flange. For a turbo'd engine, you really should have it before the turbo (the temp difference before and after can be several hundred degrees).

 

[bottleworks]

Well you may not want to here this but the mechanical pump for the cucv im pretty sure is close to or is the same as the one on the 6.2 in the humvee, the only way to get more fuel is to send it off and have it " WORKED ON " to get more power.

Who gave you this idea?

 

[CCATLETT1984]

someone prolly told him that so he wouldnt open the pump up himself, since you have to be careful when you put the shutoff assembly back in.

 

[Alredneck]

From the amount of power gained from turning a srcew vs having the pump built for the application at which it is trying to be used for realistically. If you send it off you will be able to make more power!! But if you want to be cheap turn the dang screw!!!! How many HP can you get by just turn the stock pump up? If you send it off you will get a whole lot more!

 

[CCATLETT1984]

unless you have coated pistons, and low compression ones at that, you will blow up your engine before you surpass the amount of fuel the stock db2 pump can ouput.

 

[Alredneck]

That may be so and the cucv was also never designed to pull a sled either!! When you want it to do something it wasnt supposed to do and start modding it the the cheap mods dont always give the best results. That was what I was getting at. Trying to keep it mostly stock for reliablilty is the most sane thing to consider, also those truck are fairly fuel effeicant so mods to stay within those ranges should be considered. Last I remember anyway the 6.2 was never a power house Even with the worked on pump! ( We had one rebuilt and moded in a humvee light skin during my first tour it ran real well. A lot more power than the original pump it was built by a iraqi mechanic, he said he made some changes but im not sure what all he did, them guys can rebuild just about anything. Im sure if we sent out Deuce IP heads over there they could do those. )

 

[CCATLETT1984]

The whole point of turning up the fuel is if you have increased the airflow into the engine, as with a turbocharger, since you now have more air available you can burn more fuel. This gives you increased effeciency and also more power.

With a banks turbo and a 1/4 turn adjustment on the fuel screw, the 6.2L will make an extra 60HP and 180ft/lbs. Thats a big difference in power considering the stock rating was ~180HP. Not to mention the ~15% better fuel mileage if you keep your foot out of it.

And furthermore the only thing they could have "worked on" was by changing out the plunger inside the pump for a longer stroke, essentially making it a different model of DB2, and all that extra fuel is no good if you cant get the air to burn it, or have injectors that can spray it into the cylinder. The injector pump on a 6.2/6.5 is COMPLETELY different than the type of pump on the multifuel engines.

I did lots of research on this subject before I added the Turbo to my enigne.