fuel shutoff solenoid on the cummins 8.3

[hardimpact]

So I think my fuel cutoff solenoid is going bad. When I engage the starter it will pull itself in, but once the engine starts it drops out. I can hold it in by hand while I start the engine and then it will hold itself in and the truck will stay running as normal. Changing the solenoid is easy but somewhat expensive if its not the problem. Could I have some other electrical issue causing this? My batteries are a little weak on initial start, but after running, and the batteries get some strength, I still get the same drop out when I let go of the starter switch.

Thanks for your advice,

Scott

 

[Stonepicker1]

How expensive is the solenoid?

 

[Suprman]

Yes weak batteries will cause solenoid issues on the 8.3 engine. Funny the engine will still turn over but the solenoid will have weak or no engagement. If you hold the solenoid back while soldier 2 cranks and starts, the engine running alternator generating should provide the needed voltage to keep it held back.

 

[hardimpact]

yep that maybe my problem. I will charge batteries full and see what happens. the solenoid is $250 from cummins dealer
Thanks

Yes weak batteries will cause solenoid issues on the 8.3 engine. Funny the engine will still turn over but the solenoid will have weak or no engagement. If you hold the solenoid back while soldier 2 cranks and starts, the engine running alternator generating should provide the needed voltage to keep it held back.

 

[wreckerman893]

This has been an on going problem with this engine since the trucks were fielded. I was in a unit that changed over from the 800 series truck straight to the cargo 900A2 series. At night in the Motor Pool you could hear the solenoids de-energizing with an audible "clicking" sound.
Drivers that were unaware of the problem would drain the batteries trying to start the trucks. The Standard Operating Procedure was to lift the hood prior to cranking the truck for the first time each day and inspect the solenoid when engaging the battery switch (this was supposed to be done anyway as pre-trip but you know lazy Privates). If it would not operate then "Soldier B" would hold it open while the driver cranked the truck. Usually once it had energized you were good for a few days if the truck was started every day.
I have two A2's in the yard and I cranked both of them today. They had not been fired off in a couple of weeks. The M927A2 fired right up but the wrecker had de-energized. Go figure.

 

[PWM]

When my shut off solenoid quit I just removed it and use the emergency shut off, pull to cut the fuel and push it back in to start. Just remember the proper shut down sequence.

 

[WillWagner]

Grounds cause issues too.

 

[3500ctd]

I'm wondering if it isn't the batteries as well. I had a weak battery recently on our M929A2 and around the same time the solenoid started acting up. Hopefully some fresh batteries take care of the problem.

 

[HanksDeuce]

Although I've never looked at a Cummins 8.3L engine up close the fuel shutoff solenoid should be very similar (if not exactly the same) as the Cummins 5.9L 12-valve engine that I have. Attached is a photo of how I converted my fuel shutoff to a manual setup with the standard deuce shut down cable instead of using the $$$ solenoid that tends to stick. Cost = $0.34 for the 3/16" cable clamps!

Just flip the injection pump shutoff lever around 180 degrees and bolt it back to the block. This changes the throw and the cable connects to it with a couple cable clamps. Pull out to shut down and push in to crank.

 

[hardimpact]

The shutoff lever on the 8.3 is spring loaded to the open position. The manual shut of cable pulls to shut down. Simply removing the solenoid will let it run,no need for the set up you had to make on yours. Cool idea though! I was looking to get it back to working as it should.

Although I've never looked at a Cummins 8.3L engine up close the fuel shutoff solenoid should be very similar (if not exactly the same) as the Cummins 5.9L 12-valve engine that I have. Attached is a photo of how I converted my fuel shutoff to a manual setup with the standard deuce shut down cable instead of using the $$$ solenoid that tends to stick. Cost = $0.34 for the 3/16" cable clamps!

Just flip the injection pump shutoff lever around 180 degrees and bolt it back to the block. This changes the throw and the cable connects to it with a couple cable clamps. Pull out to shut down and push in to crank.

 

[3500ctd]

Replaced weak batteries today, and everything works as it should again.

 

[Csm Davis]

Grounds cause issues too.

Will am I crazy or did I read that the voltage for opening the solenoid was 24v as you are cranking but drops to 12v once the engine is running? Wouldn't that allow just one battery to cause the problem?

 

[tobyS]

Will am I crazy or did I read that the voltage for opening the solenoid was 24v as you are cranking but drops to 12v once the engine is running? Wouldn't that allow just one battery to cause the problem?

How would that happen? There could be a resistor but why?

What I found on my 8.3 was some bare wires by the fuel pressure switch (I think that's what it is) and they were shorting so it never thought it made fuel pressure. That stopped my solenoid from working properly. I would have to study a wiring diagram to know what is happening, but feel and see if you have possible bare wires at a switch on the fuel (return I think). Camera is not uploading to give a picture. sorry. My 931 is a 2012 rebuild. It has left me wondering if it was deliberately cut.

 

[allie]

im currently doing this with my m931 tractor should i replace the solenoid or is there a way to check it first?
thanks
al

 

[hardimpact]

I went round and round with this problem, replaced the solenoid no change. Then I replaced bad battery terminals and charged the batteries--problem fixed! Al, if I were you I would go thru the battery system first. Scott

 

[98G]

I went round and round with this problem, replaced the solenoid no change. Then I replaced bad battery terminals and charged the batteries--problem fixed! Al, if I were you I would go thru the battery system first. Scott

This.

My experience has been that even if you have batteries good enough to vigorously crank , they may not be enough to actuate the solenoid.

 

[OilfieldRoughneck]

Replaced mine, got new one from Boyce. Simple, and why not fix it right?

 

[allie]

scott batteries i believe are good cranks strong too
thanks
al

 

[98G]

Replaced mine, got new one from Boyce. Simple, and why not fix it right?

If the problem is batteries, changing the batteries is fixing it right. I'd throw known good batteries in and see what that does before throwing parts at it.

Here's my most recent experience with it: I drove my M923A2 from Tucson to Ft Bliss and met up with carnac. I shut the truck off. When it was time to go, the truck would crank but not start. This is a truck that always starts at the first hint of a crank, so I had carnac look while I cranked and sure enough, the solenoid wasn't engaging. We zip tied it and I continued on to Socorro and RGS20INOPHIR 's.

A few days later I recovered the M925A1 out of Ft Riley. Batteries were irrevocably shot. I bought 2 new group 31 batteries and put them in my M923A2, and moved the batteries from it to the M925A1 (which runs! ). Now that the M923A2 has strong batteries in it there have been no further problems with the solenoid failing to engage.

 

[allie]

Wow ok then. I will try this.
Thanks
Al