Fischer34
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Make sure to use diesel fuel
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Fuel
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rustystud
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No !
The amount of engine or any other oil is "less than half" when cut with "Gasoline". Remember your trying to make "Diesel" fuel here. At least a fuel that flows at the same viscosity as Diesel .
No way can you run 80% or 90% oil without problems developing.
You can cut the oil with Kerosene or Aviation Fuel , but you still need it to flow like Diesel.
Read up here on what others have done.
I had to edit this post .
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My friend i gotta pick at you, you’re sharing sound advise, but i have ran many a multi fuel on 90% waste oil and 10% pump gas in our hot Georgia summers. But it’s not recommended
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rustystud
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I didn't say it would not run, it's just not smart. A fuel system with that much oil in it would not last long either.
I'll bet you a "Popsicle for your hot summers" that your fuel system (that includes your injection pump) is filled with crud too.
It is also extremely hard on all the working parts in your injection system. That includes your injection pump, booster pump, and injectors .
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Not to mention pump wear from the super fine metals and acids you can't filter out of used oil .
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How many miles are these trucks actually being driven in a year? It will probably be cheaper in the long run to run on good clean diesel with a proven diesel additive. It will start better, run better, and last longer and be more enjoyable to drive without having to fix all the problems that the dirty oil brings on.
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I experimented a bit with fuel in the past. Ran it on biodiesel. Deuce did not care. Poured a quart of (new) motor oil into the tank because there is thinking about better top end lubrication. Deuce smoked more and did not care. Ran it on pure regular gasoline, with two stroke oil for lubrication. Deuce ran fine, guzzled the gas as if it was free and did not care.
I have since returned to clean diesel fuel with the occasional lubricity additive and leave it at that. As @royalflush55 said, not enough distance driven to even start calculating "savings" or "cost". You gotta pay to play.
I have since returned to clean diesel fuel with the occasional lubricity additive and leave it at that. As @royalflush55 said, not enough distance driven to even start calculating "savings" or "cost". You gotta pay to play.
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No sir, my fuel systems are not. I’m very experienced with waste oils, centrifuging the “proper way” via preheating, settling, cutting with pump gas, and getting my fuel down to less than 1 micron contamination. Too many take the easy route of “well my engine has an oil filter so it’s good to go just pour right in!” Or “i filter with blue jeans and a 5 gallon bucket” method
I’ve ran hundreds of thousands of miles in 12 valve/24 valves/common rail Cummins platforms, duramaxes, 6.0 power stroke and more.
There are secrets to the trade, and method to the madness. But I’d long since abandoned WMO for better fuels listed in my link here https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/poe-mineral-compressor-oil.190241/
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msgjd
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As Rustystud is alluding to, although indirectly, is where engine and fuel system longevity is considered, a fuel needs to be within a certain Specific Gravity parameter relative to ambient air temperature, even if the engine has an operational FDC in place ..
I have blown out the seals on a multifuel IP with operational FDC on a "surprise" 38-degree summer morning because my WVO mix was too heavy for the IP at that ambient temp .. The mix's specific gravity had tested within parameters at temps above 65F.. The truck started and ran fine and was rather smokey, but the fuel pressure clearly was way too high because the fuel was too thick at the low temp
I have run WVO successfully for many years in many things, regardless whether it's a multifuel engine or diesel , military or commercial .. but I do it only on stuff that has dual tanks or can at least accept a "starting tank", so that each startup and shutdown is on straight diesel...
With WVO, there's three choices:
1: do the chemical process of making biodiesel , or;
2: blend fuels to achieve tolerable specific gravity range dependent on ambient temp, or;
3: heat unblended or partially-blended waste oil to achieve a tolerable specific gravity range
I would think those who use WMO would conform to #2 or #3 ..
Due to the metallic fines and acids found in WMO, I myself am leery of using it because I expect my stuff to continue working hard for decades without abnormally-caused issues.. I don't have time or manpower to replace IP's and injectors.. However, I do know of an old long-time Mack fleet that filtered and dumped a monitored percentage of WMO into their 4000g bulk diesel dispensing tank .. They boasted of getting a million miles between rebuilds on their ENDT-673's and subsequent engines over the decades because of the WMO, however they went through more injectors, filters, and occasional IP failure... It was apparently worth it to them, as they had been doing it since the 1950's until the day they closed their doors in the 90's.. I recall many a chilly morning passing their yard.. Let's just say there were no mosquitoes nor anything else flying in that thick blue air , and it was a special treat to come up behind one or more of them having just rolled out onto the state road and accelerating away from there
I have blown out the seals on a multifuel IP with operational FDC on a "surprise" 38-degree summer morning because my WVO mix was too heavy for the IP at that ambient temp .. The mix's specific gravity had tested within parameters at temps above 65F.. The truck started and ran fine and was rather smokey, but the fuel pressure clearly was way too high because the fuel was too thick at the low temp
I have run WVO successfully for many years in many things, regardless whether it's a multifuel engine or diesel , military or commercial .. but I do it only on stuff that has dual tanks or can at least accept a "starting tank", so that each startup and shutdown is on straight diesel...
With WVO, there's three choices:
1: do the chemical process of making biodiesel , or;
2: blend fuels to achieve tolerable specific gravity range dependent on ambient temp, or;
3: heat unblended or partially-blended waste oil to achieve a tolerable specific gravity range
I would think those who use WMO would conform to #2 or #3 ..
Due to the metallic fines and acids found in WMO, I myself am leery of using it because I expect my stuff to continue working hard for decades without abnormally-caused issues.. I don't have time or manpower to replace IP's and injectors.. However, I do know of an old long-time Mack fleet that filtered and dumped a monitored percentage of WMO into their 4000g bulk diesel dispensing tank .. They boasted of getting a million miles between rebuilds on their ENDT-673's and subsequent engines over the decades because of the WMO, however they went through more injectors, filters, and occasional IP failure... It was apparently worth it to them, as they had been doing it since the 1950's until the day they closed their doors in the 90's.. I recall many a chilly morning passing their yard.. Let's just say there were no mosquitoes nor anything else flying in that thick blue air , and it was a special treat to come up behind one or more of them having just rolled out onto the state road and accelerating away from there
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One thing not noted in these talks is the injection pump and injectors are "hardened" for use with Arctic fuel, which has very little lubricating ability. That would indicate the use of WMO isn't necessary for that function.
Stretching your fuel ration is another story, tho.
Another thing the Test & Evaluation Command did for those tacticals.
I'd suppose, but don't know for sure if the newer tacticals are so provided for.
Stretching your fuel ration is another story, tho.
Another thing the Test & Evaluation Command did for those tacticals.
I'd suppose, but don't know for sure if the newer tacticals are so provided for.
Question of current state of fuel and additives - when I was on active duty, diesel was very oily, diesel I am getting at pump recently seems to evaporate much quicker and isn't as 'oily'. It seems more gasonlie like, other than its a pain to fill a tank since it froths kinda like beer just like I remember. They retained the worst feature.
In reading on fuel, I often see adding a 'lubricity' additive, which makes sense to me given the changes in the nature of fuel from when these trucks were in service to modern fuel.
I see Opti lube mentioned in multiple places (although dated) as being the superior additive for lubricity. The gentleman I got the truck from recommended Stanadyne lubricity additive which appears to be well reviewed and does show an improvement in that test.
Problem is the only thing I have found locally that states it is for lubricity is Howes, and not finding anything else really. Project farm did a thing with Howes but I am assuming since that test was straight Howes instead of mixed with fuel, it may not be accurate, but it did poorly for lubricity. A different Howes product is mentioned in that diesel fuel additive test report, but it isn't super helpful if they one they tested is similar to the one I am finding.
I suppose I can order Optilube online, or ask a local place to stock it but before I do, assuming I want to care for my truck well without being wasteful, is Optilube they way to go, or is something else sufficient?
I was surprised that motor oil and stuff like Marvel Mystery oil weren't very helpful according to the test. I am also surprised that Biodiesel isn't more commonly available in my agriculture focused region.
To summarize - Is using a fuel additive for fuel systems lubrication a good idea and if so what is a effective additive to diesel fuel for lubricating the fuel system?
In reading on fuel, I often see adding a 'lubricity' additive, which makes sense to me given the changes in the nature of fuel from when these trucks were in service to modern fuel.
I see Opti lube mentioned in multiple places (although dated) as being the superior additive for lubricity. The gentleman I got the truck from recommended Stanadyne lubricity additive which appears to be well reviewed and does show an improvement in that test.
Problem is the only thing I have found locally that states it is for lubricity is Howes, and not finding anything else really. Project farm did a thing with Howes but I am assuming since that test was straight Howes instead of mixed with fuel, it may not be accurate, but it did poorly for lubricity. A different Howes product is mentioned in that diesel fuel additive test report, but it isn't super helpful if they one they tested is similar to the one I am finding.
I suppose I can order Optilube online, or ask a local place to stock it but before I do, assuming I want to care for my truck well without being wasteful, is Optilube they way to go, or is something else sufficient?
I was surprised that motor oil and stuff like Marvel Mystery oil weren't very helpful according to the test. I am also surprised that Biodiesel isn't more commonly available in my agriculture focused region.
To summarize - Is using a fuel additive for fuel systems lubrication a good idea and if so what is a effective additive to diesel fuel for lubricating the fuel system?
SCSG-G4
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Gallon of Optilube XPD treats 512 gallons as a 'preventative'. Our club ordered a five gallon pail last time, still have some left. Works out to about 11 cents per gallon treated. Personally, I also use Biobore MD as my preferred biocide.
ToddJK
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I'll say if using wmo, the system will get full of crud if it's not cleaned every so often. I found that out the hard way. Luckily, it was fixable by adding some fuel injector cleaners and run more diesel or gas with new oil mixed. Yeah, you'll go through more fuel filters, that's a given, but it depends on the user as far as how often it's driven. I'd suggest to not use much wmo if the truck isn't driven on a regular schedule. I drive mine 2-4 times weekly. In the two and half years I've owned it, I've already put over 12k miles on it. I run it primarily on wmo, filtered down to 5 micron, before going in the tank. Fuel filters get changed once a year. Usually I'd add about ten gallons of gas to 40 gallons of wmo, but as of this summer, I've been running on almost 100% wmo with bottles of Heet in each tank, one of those bottles being the injector cleaner. It takes longer to start than it would on jet fuel or diesel, but that's to be expected. However, it runs great, has full power, and the only time it runs in mostly diesel or wmo/gas mixed, which is at least 50/50, is the winter time. As far as cost saving go, yeah, it's already paid for an injection pump. I figured, with 12k miles, that's around 8 miles per gallon, 1500 gallons of fuel used, being generous at $3/gallon, that's $4500 of fuel. Realistically, it's been a little more than 12k miles and 8 miles per gallon is on the top end from my calculations with my fuel economy, but also $3/gallon would be great if diesel actually stayed at that price but it's been around $4+/gallon for quite some time. Is it worth it to run on wmo? I guess it depends on how well you filter it, how you cut it, how often or how many miles you drive your truck, ect. To me, it's worth it, especially when the wmo is free. Only costs that I've occur e has been a few oil pumps, filters socks that are replaced every so often, usually when the flow slows way down compared to normal. All my barrels I got for free and one of the ibc totes cost me $25. Hoses are another cost, but definitely under $100 in total, even cheaper if I can use garden hoses, which means I get all the old ones with holes or cracks for free and just cut the bad parts out and put in some garden hose ends off Amazon which are plenty cheap. It's a process that requires time and effort to make it effective, but if you do, imo, it pays for itself and is 100% worth it if you run your truck every so often. It's not worth it nor the effort of the potential issues if the truck sits more than it's running and driven.
When buying fuel at a truck stop, and it asks for tractor or reefer (heh) fuel, use "Tractor".
For someone who is in an agriculture area, generally tractor (an agriculture tractor) fuel is red dyed and is less expensive since they dont tax it for road use.
At a truck stop, a tractor means the "truck" part and "reefer" (heh) means the engine powering refrigerators. In this context, the reefer fuel is not taxed for road use.
This is very confusing for someone not familiar with trucking terminology, since you want to get the correctly taxed (and not dyed) fuel for road use.
For someone who is in an agriculture area, generally tractor (an agriculture tractor) fuel is red dyed and is less expensive since they dont tax it for road use.
At a truck stop, a tractor means the "truck" part and "reefer" (heh) means the engine powering refrigerators. In this context, the reefer fuel is not taxed for road use.
This is very confusing for someone not familiar with trucking terminology, since you want to get the correctly taxed (and not dyed) fuel for road use.
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Here in michigan if it isn't dyed it is taxed , you file for a refund at the end of the year .