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Gamma Goat wheel hub Maintaince

Joe Gamma

New member
125
1
0
Location
Middleboro Mass
Just starting taking the Wheel hubs / brake drums off my goat and learned quite a bit today. I figure to take one wheel off a day and really inspect / lube it.

Is there any recomended maintaince...I took the rust off the drum and cleaned it with brake clean...Noticed there was infact a gasket missing around the entire hub...

Hub looked heavy but was not unmanageable at all...

any recomendations before I start the rest...

Thanks Guys..

Joe
 

Charlie 6

Member
147
17
18
Location
Claremore/Oklahoma OK
I started on the front two of my goat but decided to wait for cooler days, this OKlahoma 110 days not for me. I plan to reline brake shoes, replace rubber lines, replace cylinders and use dot 5. So far I replaced the master cylinder. I was trying to figure out easy way to replace the rubber lines. The coil spring kind of in the way.
 

Joe Gamma

New member
125
1
0
Location
Middleboro Mass
I started the noble goal of a wheel a day....The old Coot who really restored the Goat said he took of some Hubs and they looked fine a year ago. Oddly when I gt My Goat the three brake inspection ports that take the three quater inch drive were missing on the right side...

The Hubs on the left were immaculate..the three on the right were shot with bald shoes....Glad I insisted on pulling each one..

Gonna try and replace one drum with two blown out 7/16 screws and a cracked flange before I try and weld it...

A bad day working o the Goat is always better than a good day at work...

Joe
 

Joe Gamma

New member
125
1
0
Location
Middleboro Mass
Well I just got my Gamma Goat Brakes Merit badge. Replaced six shoes and three wheel cylinders. Pulled off all six brake drums and added Gaskets...Replaced one cracked drum...

Thanks Gamma Goat one for recomending 715 shoes...

I bled the brakes but before I go futher does anyone know anything unusual about bleeding them..being trctor and trailer..
Joe
 

Gamagoat1

Active member
746
44
28
Location
Kiowa, Colorado
You're welcome.
Nothing strange about bleeding. Farthest from the master first. Be real carefull about removing the bleeder hose, one drop of "sillycone" will destroy the shoe. It's one of the best lubricants known and doesn't belong on a brake surface. Finger tight the axle center bolt to assure axle engagement in the wheel. Make sure the jacking bolts are completely backed out before tightening the brake drum. That's what brakes em. After torquing the drum bolts tighten the jacking bolts. Then retighten the axle center bolt and lock it in place.

It's still GamaGoat...
 
Last edited:

m561gamagoat

Active member
146
30
28
Location
Akron/Ohio
A pressure bleeder makes it so much easier. My last goat"s brakes drove me to near insanity. LOL I just love pulling off the wheels and drums. Im pretty sure sel-adjusting drum brakes were pretty common back then, sure would have helped on the Goats! LOL
 

Joe Gamma

New member
125
1
0
Location
Middleboro Mass
I used a fancy bleeder yesterday and after my Gammagoat told me to kiss its Fanny I went old school and bled them all with a buddy.

I thought I had them adjusted well enough but the test ride showed one doing a ton of work and two others doing nothing.

Is there a special tool besides a screw drive to adjust goat brakes?

I jack the wheel up and adjust the wheel till it did not spin and then backed it off till I felt it scraping(heard).

Does anyone have a process they find simple to adjust them..

Thanks Guys it takes a whole Villiage to prevent an Idiot..

Joe
 

m561gamagoat

Active member
146
30
28
Location
Akron/Ohio
After bleeding and adjusting you need to drive around, adjust again etc, till everythings finds it's equilibrium. Big flat blade works as well as anything. And there is no simple process just gotta keep at it
 

Joe Gamma

New member
125
1
0
Location
Middleboro Mass
Well now I can sew on..ok Liquid nail my Gamma goat brake merit badge.....Buddy adjusted them all again yesterday and was quite pleased when I showed up this Morning...I took it for a good ten mile ride and marked half way the Drum to hot to touch...the Lazy cold one and another pretty hot one that was not steaming though..Brought it back and three adjustments later my Goat has a **** hard pedal and will stop better than it ever has....

Now for steering..

Thanks folks!
 

Charlie 6

Member
147
17
18
Location
Claremore/Oklahoma OK
Sounds great,
I just completed rewiring the dash according to the schematic. Also put in an electrical kill switch.
Connected the batteries and no smoke, everthing electrical working now. 100 degree days this week in OK so brakes repair still on hold.
 

m561gamagoat

Active member
146
30
28
Location
Akron/Ohio
Speaking of steering, are the seals used in the steering gearboxes tough to find or find a replacement that fits? Anyone know? My rear box is leaking pretty good.
 

Jericho

Well-known member
1,180
69
48
Location
Landaff NH
Hey Joe , the solution to the missing inspection port plugs ( they are just BSP steam plugs, can get them at all good plumbing supply oplacess is to drill a hole through the square head and then safety wire it with 32 thousandth stainless safety wire to the other plug,use the around the head meathod and ensure it pulls positive. There is a recommended tool you can make for brakes, both adj and bleed in the TM. if you dont mind my asking where did you source your drum?
 

mendo

New member
108
10
0
Location
Meadow Vista, CA
Speaking of steering, are the seals used in the steering gearboxes tough to find or find a replacement that fits? Anyone know? My rear box is leaking pretty good.
one of the guys I saw last year put Zerks into his boxes and pumped them up with Grease. he says that they work great and keep the water out.
 

mkcoen

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,637
381
83
Location
Spring Branch, TX
For those that have done this before, any suggestions on an easy way to get the drum off? I've unbolted it completely but it still won't budge.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
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NY
Jack bolts in the jack bolt holes in the drum.

With some pressure on the jack bolts, you can hit the center of the drum to shock it if needed.
Also, be sure the splines on the drive hub are not frozen(spray lube in the center hole and use a punch to make it move in a bit to know it is not frozen).

One of mine, I had to grind the splined hub rivets off to get the drum only off. Then I had to heat and pull the splined hub off the axle.
 

mkcoen

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Spring Branch, TX
One of mine, I had to grind the splined hub rivets off to get the drum only off. Then I had to heat and pull the splined hub off the axle.
You're just full of cheerful possibilities. Of course being the pessimist that I am, I'm sure mine will be equally challenging.
 

doghead

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NY
Gee, I left out the gorey part.

Before I resorted to grinding the rivets off, I was using a 3/8 drift punch in the hole in the hub, trying to break the axle free from the hub.

Never swing a 12# sledge hammer into a 3/8 punch.

It broke and hit me in the forehead leaving a perfect circle(hole in my forehead).

Why do head injuries bleed so bad?

6 stitches later, I moved on to plan B.
 
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