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Gasser Tune Up

Barrman

Well-known member
5,274
1,796
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
My truck sat for 25-30 years before I got it. The previous owner told me the engine had been completely gone through, everything replaced and then never started. Never even had oil in the pan or fuel in the carb according to him.

I got it running about a year ago. The engine ran good, the carb was shiny inside, so was the distributor and the oil has stayed clean. But, the radiator hoses had more holes than rubber and then I poked a hole in the radiator with the winch when I put it back on. I had always planned to take it apart, so I just drove it around the house and never let it get much beyond warm.

I got a NOS radiator and finally got it installed this week. Tonight was my time to do a complete tune up since it can stay at opperating temps for the first time since I have had it. Timing, points gap, valve clearance and carb adjustments.

I found the float was set just a little too high. I was enjoying the sight of the new green paint slowly turning to brown on the exhaust manifold when I noticed the Drip, PSSSST of fuel coming out of the air intake. The needle and seat were clean and so was the bowl. I pushedd the float down a little and put it back together. No more Drip, PSSST and no more burble in the exhaust every 30 seconds or so. I got the mixture screws set to the best speed for each and the idle way down low. I don't have a tach to hook up to it right now, so I took it down as slow as it would go and then brought it back up to the smoothest speed.

Then I went to time it. The distributor has been just sitting there with the tie downs loose, held in place by the vent lines. I hooked up my fancy military issue spark plug wire adaptor so I could put my regular car timing light on. A spare battery on the floor provided power for it. My timing light is one of those with the dial in the back. I couldn't find the numbers. Turn the engine by hand until I can use white soap stone to mark 0. Fire it back up and I still can't see it. I started turning the dial, and I could finally see the line at about 70 degrees advance on the dial. That has me scratching my head thinking the rotor wasn't pointed the right way when the distributor was dropped into the block. I hook up the adaptor to the next plug wire in the firing order. I figured since it is a 6 cylinder, the rotor turns 360 degrees and therefore, each plug wire should be 60 degrees apart. Still no marks where they should be. After more than an hour screwing with those very hard to undo spark plug wires it finally hit me that the distributor is turning half as fast as the crank which means each plug wire is 120 degrees of crank rotation apart. So much for setting the timing to exactly 4 degrees BTC. I just turned it to where it sounded best and tightened it down.

Since I had the wires all loose, I went ahead and pulled them out of the cap and pulled the cover off to set the points gap. Supposed to be .0222 and it was around .010. It didn't run any different after I set it right, but it will probably run longer without pulling the cover off again set right. Back on go all the spark plug wires and that one really hard to even see cover screw right next to the really hot engine block.

Then I decided to get rid of my tapping. Or at least find out if it is supposed to tap like a room full of morse code operators. I have never heard another Gasser run so I don't know. Off comes the valve cover and I set about setting all the rockers at .015 gap. They were all loose and a few were 3 or 4 complete turns of the adjusting screw out. I noticed it got better and better as I moved down the 12 rockers. But, it wasn't until I did that last one that I realized how much noise those out of adjustment rockers had been making. Putting the valve cover back on made it even better. The loudest noise now is the alternator fan pushing air and the radiator fan also pushing air. I bet this thing will sound like an expensive watch once I get the hood and fenders on. Right now it sounds like a sewing machine in another room. I used to think Flathead Ford V8's were the best sounding engine at idle I knew about. I don't think that anymore.

Sorry for the long post, but my wife doesn't want to hear about how each rocker got adjusted, my son is asleeep and I am so excited to have this thing running like a top. Now I have no more excuses to keep me from doing more sanding this weekend either. Hopefully, I will be posting pictures of a painted hood on the truck next week.
 

pistolnut

Member
98
6
8
Location
Caldwell, TX
Sounds great! Glad you got it running good. It already ran good, but now you have it really dialed in, that must feel great.

I've heard this truck run, and it sounded pretty good already. With all the work you've done, I can't wait until the next time I see it.
 

rosco

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Delta Junction, Alaska
Really great - I know how you feel! I don't know what engine you have, or the spec's.
Setting the timing, at an idle, where it sounds best, is usually not where the spec's say to time it. Also, after you set those valves, you'll want to re-time it! That will change the settings some. A precise way to time it, without a light, is get it close, as you have. Preferrably a little advanced - take it out for a spin and lug it till it "pings". Then retard the timing, just enough, so it won't ping. That will be about perfect.

When I was running my M211's, I didn't have the fancy timing light, & even rather then fuss with the shielded wires time it as above. If you get it too far retarded, you will get excessive manifold temperatures. Lots of unburned fuel being dumped into the manifod/exhaust.

When you set the valves, it sounded like you set them "hot & running". That is the best way to do it. Sometimes its a little messy & takes some getting used to, but that's the way to do it right. Great work!

Lee in Alaska
 

SasquatchSanta

New member
1,177
18
0
Location
Northern Minnesota
Hey Barrman --- that was a good story. Thanks for sharing it.

I like my multi but sometimes I long for the quiet and simplicity of a gasser.

I'd like to find a good reo gasser without a winch.

Got any pictures?

Thks,
 

2027Deuce

New member
436
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0
Location
Laurel, Nebraska
Yeah Barrman the sound of the gasser is quite sweet. I also enjoy the roar when she's put to work. Great job on your truck, I've really enjoyed your informative posts as you have been working on it. As weather permits, my boys and I have started work on our gasser. We would like to bring it back to service grade condition after it has set so many years. :driver:
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,274
1,796
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
Thanks for the kind words guys. I didn't think pictures of the tune up stuff would be worth posting, so I didn't take any.

Yes, I did set the rockers with the engine hot and running. Trying to balance on the frame rail, hold a screwdriver, a 9/16" combination wrench and a feeler gauge in my hand at the same time, not scratch any of the new paint or get oil on the paint along with trying to time my hand to the rocker so I actually do something besides stab myself took a while to figure out.

A side bonus of the foot push pedal starter on the Gasser is that you can start it from 3 different locations. Actually, 4. Sitting in the drivers seat like you are supposed to, standing in the drivers door with a strong WHACK of the hand, anywhere within reach of the drivers side firewall lets you pull the linkage and you can do the same thing on the passenger side too. Since I don't have the windshield frame on yet, I can reach the ON/OFF switch while standing on the drivers side frame rail and the starter linkage. So, I would turn it off, loosen a lock nut, fire it up, adjust and then hold the set screw in place with the screwdriver, turn it off with the other hand and then tighten down the lock nut.

I had to go out this morning and see how it liked starting in the cold with the new tune. No pumps of the pedal and no choke got it running at slow idle in about 2 seconds of turning over. Then the sun came out, so I drove it out to enjoy the day in the light while I toiled away sanding the inside of the hood. We got most of it sanded before I got distracted seing how the glass comes out of the windshield. (Can you tell I don't like to sand?) I have about 3-4 hours of work to do before the hood will be ready for paint. Hopefully, I can get both sides ready and the inside painted before dark Sunday. That will give me something to hurry home for Monday.
 

DDoyle

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
1,825
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48
Location
West Tennessee
Congrats on your progress. Indeed, the OA-331 is a fine engine. The truck was literally designed around this engine (the engine was demonstrated to the army before the truck), and it really shows.

DD
 

rosco

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,102
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Location
Delta Junction, Alaska
Good Show

I use a box end, 9/16" & the appropriate screw driver, but not too long. I don't shut it off. Break the lock nut loose, do the adjustment, then slip the screwdriver through the inside of the box end, and you can hold both comfortably with that hand, while you check with the feeler guage, with the other hand.

Lee in Alaska
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Monrovia, Ca.
ems4ty..Tyler has a gasser. I have to say, I was quite surprised how quiet and how well it ran on the last trip to the dez. You should have seen the stuff he went up, even w/o a working front axle!
 

JasonS

Well-known member
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167
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Location
Eastern SD
Re: RE: Gasser Tune Up

DDoyle said:
Congrats on your progress. Indeed, the OA-331 is a fine engine. The truck was literally designed around this engine (the engine was demonstrated to the army before the truck), and it really shows.

DD
I agree. I find it interesting to compare the Reo to it's contemporaries. For example, if you objectively compare the Reo to the 302 GMC engine you will realize that the 302's design was quite dated when it debuted in ~1952.
 

jatonka

Well-known member
1,802
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Location
Ephratah, New York
RE: Re: RE: Gasser Tune Up

All of the 2 1/2 ton Reo gassers were 146 gross horsepower at 3400 RPM. fromTM9-8022. And they were the quietest gas engine I have ever owned. My shop set #2 Gull Wing machine shop truck is still gas and the truck weighs around 28,000 pounds outfitted with gear. It drives well, I wish I could drive a gas deuce tractor, that should feel pretty responsive. JT out
 

nattieleather

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Location
Cleveland, OH
RE: Re: RE: Gasser Tune Up

Yep that is a very quiet motor....I think its kinda cool that way.

I'm wondering Tim about the timing....Where abouts did it settle down at degrees wise when you locked it down?
 

ems4ty

New member
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restricted/ca
RE: Re: RE: Gasser Tune Up

Just saw this post and wanted to comment on it. As Will Wagner said, I too have a Reo M35 Gasser with an OA-331. I'm a little dissappointed by the power that it produces, along with this annoying problem of the ever disappearing/vanishing radiator fluid. I know the radiator and hoses are good since I just had worked on it. I think its a problem with the block. It would be way beneficial for me to pull the motor and rebuild it because it seems like I am replacing just about everything on it. Anyways, I need to get around to checking the point gap and lifter clearances and do the timing thing. Hopefully, after that, she won't be so stubborn on starting up. Going through the carb would also probably help. Oh well, this post isn't about me anyways. BTW, what year is your gasser? Mine's a 1953.

Cya!
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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RE: Re: RE: Gasser Tune Up

Tyler, you may have had some difficulties, but that thing is a runner! If it runs bad, i'd like to see it when it is running good. It will run circles around the multi.
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,274
1,796
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
RE: Re: RE: Gasser Tune Up

Mine is a 1952.

I always did the box end with a screwdriver in one hand and feeler gauge in the other on valves before. I kept loosing my balance though the other night and made use of my coverall pockets. Most every other valve adjustment I have ever done had me standing on the ground.

I didn't get very far on the hood sanding. I don't mind sanding, but 30 minutes and several 60 grit pads later, I can't tell much different. The hood has two coats of Army green, one coat of red, a gray/white and then some funky green I call "Kalifornia Green" since the cab came from there. The Kalifornia green comes right off, so does the grayish layer. Then all progress stops. I got frustrated and pulled the big wire wheel out and it had trouble with the bottom 3 layers. Then since progress wasn't being made, my mind tends to wander while I am just stanidng there moving the DA around. I got distracted by the air horn.

I pulled the horn apart a year ago, made it work with shop air and then put it back on the truck. Hot wiring to the batteries showed it worked a year ago on the truck. It has just been dangling since. I pulled it off when I swapped cabs. I got to thinking about it while I was sanding. Next thing I knew, I was installing it. It of course didn't work. 2 hours later, I had a horn that worked and a button that didn't on the steering wheel. Another hour later and it all works like it is supposed to. By then I was hungry and put up the sanding tools for another day.
 
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